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Garage door spring - how to fix?

Is this a "DIY" or a "call someone"


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Old 05-31-2008, 09:28 AM
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Call somebody...

Even my dad who is the most hard core DIYer I know (built his own garage... talked me into digging up my own sewer main that broke and we fixed it) wouldn't tackle it.

I was in the house when mine broke, sounded like someone set off a shotgun in the garage!
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:58 AM
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I would hire a professional on that one. Those look like the torsion spring type, one on each side. When one side breaks, the other one will follow. Better to replace both. If you DIY, make sure rent a spring tensioning tool. As there is probably no other way to do it without the proper tool safely. Not sure if your local Home Depot has those but probably garage door companies do. Do a search on "how to" over the net. Good luck!
Old 05-31-2008, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by widebody911 View Post
Is this a "DIY" or a "call someone"

Call someone. I deleted my first post because I didn't see the pic. That looks like the torsion type that rests against the bulkhead of the garage. Very tricky and final adjustment is key. IMHO it is worth the money to have a professional installer come out. There are some jobs that you just can't beat a tradesman's cost.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:59 AM
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I don't know what made it rust, but that's not good. I installed my own sectional door. It takes quite a bit of time and finesse to get the spring wound up. Unwinding it safely, removing the whole tension bar, place the spring on it, reinstalling and tightening would be a couple hours for me. Yes, I would do it if I had to, but if you have the money to pay for a service call and parts, I'd hire it out.
Old 05-31-2008, 10:02 AM
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A good spray lube as a rust prevention once a year or so...this according to the guy who installed my latest garage door & opener...
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:14 AM
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This happened to us a few years ago and I immediately deferred to a Pro. These springs are incredibly powerful and potentially dangerous...
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:24 AM
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I've had two break. It takes a pro just a few minutes to replace one... it really doesn't look that hard, but from what I've read if you mess up you'll be sorry - if not permanently disfigured or dead!

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/residential/torsion-spring-replacement.cgi
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:24 AM
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I dismounted two old springs and installed two new springs myself following instructions (the "tools" consist of two steel bars the correct diameter and length) that came with the new garage doors I was installing. It ain't rocket engineering but you have to know what you're doing (think/plan ahead, react ladder with fastened brace, have coupling tightening tools at hand with a helper to tighten, etc.) and pay attention: one has a "tiger by the tail" during the unwinding/wind up process. If it goes wrong one can get badly hurt. Your installation appears to be missing the red or orange warning tags about inadvertently loosening the the spring to shaft coupling.
Old 05-31-2008, 10:34 AM
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I've done this myself 3 times now.

Buy a 3 foot 1/2 inch rod and saw it in half (you need two levers).
You need the spring coil diameter, the diameter of the wire and the length. Do a search and buy it online, it is much cheaper than buying it loccally
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:35 AM
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I've done one just like that. Instead of the steel rods, I used two long extensions for a 1/4 drive socket set. Just take your time, tighten down the lock screw on occasion and lift the door to check the tension.

Agreed with the sound when it breaks...If you in the house, you think a car just crashed into your garage.....
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:12 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can even buy that spring in CA unless you're a licensed garage door installer.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:17 AM
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Basically, the springs are attached on one end(center) and torques the bar on either side. The pullys attached to the bar ends wind up the cables/door.

-So, starting from scratch with all parts new and in place, you'd first draw a white paint line across the spring so you can count how many turns have been put on it.

-Raise the door all the way up and as far back as possible and clamp some vice grips on each track so the door doesn't move forward.

-Wind the cables around the pullys on both sides and then bolt the pullys to the bar evenly.
If a cable gets loose you have to start over from scratch so make sure they are even and line up vertically. Use a vice grip resting against the wall/other so the bar doesn't move while doing each side.

-Loosen the spring end-bolts. Using two short bars, that fit perfectly(!) in the holes, wind each spring up and tighten both bolts. Check, and repeat.
If the old and new springs are the same specs, use the old number of turns as a guide.
If a turn bar slips out, the other will either break your hand, tear out an eye socket, or the whole thing will unravel in a furious way.
Have a solid tall ladder, no long hair/etc,good light and and good tools.


-For adjustment, make sure each spring has the same amount of turns and watch the in/out movenment of the rollers for signs of kinking. A good adjustment is when the door closes halfway.

My advice would be to call a professional. That job was when I permanently threw out my back and I'm glad to have good bone density.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:57 AM
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I have done it and paid to get it done. The companies in Albuquerque will quote you a price...but when the arrive and start work, they tell you the quote was for only one spring. It actually costs about $500 to get them replaced here.. It took them about an hour...it took me about 3 hrs. The springs that I installed cost about $100 a pair. If you decide to do it yourself, check the other parts (cables for fraying and bushings on the ends for wear) while you have it apart. They often last about the same time as the springs. The last set I did were powder coated so they will be rust resistant...but that is really more for looks than function. This is a pretty good DIY article for this task:
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:23 PM
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A friend broke his arm trying to fix the same thing. Call some one.
Old 05-31-2008, 01:09 PM
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Easy to fix it yourself.

The danger level is I guess high for the average homeowner duffer DIY'er.

Heavy duty DIY car work, jacking cars up and down, getting under them, dropping engines out, etc. is far more hazardous than replacing one of those springs.
Old 05-31-2008, 01:16 PM
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Fintstone's DIY link is good, although it makes it seem more complicated than it is.

This quote in that link sums up the danger situation nicely:

"If you've researched this subject at all, you will no doubt have heard that you shouldn't be attempting torsion spring replacement as a do-it-yourselfer. That is generally good advice, so if you have any doubts about your abilities to do risky physical work on your own, hire the job out like everyone else. I found I was capable of doing this work with acceptable risk, because I intelligently understood the techniques, paid careful attention to methods and safety, knew how to use common tools in good condition, properly improvised the special tools I didn't have, and diligently attended to correctly performing a few moments of hazardous manipulation."
Old 05-31-2008, 01:18 PM
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Same thing happened to me six weeks after moving into our "new" old house.

Call a pro.
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Old 05-31-2008, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
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Easy to fix it yourself.

The danger level is I guess high for the average homeowner duffer DIY'er.

Heavy duty DIY car work, jacking cars up and down, getting under them, dropping engines out, etc. is far more hazardous than replacing one of those springs.
I agree. I've replaced the ones on mine and this is an apartment building. I trust myself more than I trust the schlockers the cheapass management company would hire. Beats having the garage door crash down on my car.
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Old 05-31-2008, 02:30 PM
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Dude no biggie... case of beer... roll of duct tape... invite some of your buds over... you will be done in five minutes and ready to watch the game.

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Old 05-31-2008, 02:33 PM
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