What bicycle to buy?

[DARISC]

Haven't ridden for many years. Last bike was a Peugeot 10 spd I brought back from Europe.

Want a road bike; won't be doing any mountain biking (maybe some dirt bike paths, though). Want light weight and a stiff frame as opposed to what I see are called "comfort" bikes (no wussy padded saddle, flat handlebars, fat tires, etc.).

Figure I'll have to spend 1 to 1.5k - want to buy new. Just beginning to look into it. Trek, GT?

A mix of flat and hilly where I live (which is cool because I always liked pulling long hills anyway).

Want the bike mainly for physical fitness, maybe occasional time trials.

Suggestions?

[K. Roman]

Don't check here if you have problems with addiction.
http://velospace.org/node

[Bill Douglas]

The bike shops always seem to be having sales. Go along and see what sort of deal you can get. You want a light bike that fits you well with good componetry. My GF has a Giant TCR1 which she loves. Se went to that from a very heavy old mountain bike

[Jim Bremner]

some of the smaller companies have some great bikes in that price range.
Felt, Marin and other smaller companies are working hard to beat the big guys.

Buying a Bike from a REAL bike shop is worth the $$$ some shops will spend a good deal of time with you to make sure that you and your bike works well together. some brands don't work well with some riders. Try to find out about the shop first. In many ways if the shop isn't worthy it won't matter what the brand you buy is.

Next thing about a bike shop is first the bike comes in a box and will require time to put it together and tune it. a good shop will have a good staff-member build the bike for you. A poorly assembled bike will not perform as well as a fine tuned bike should. Don't "grind" them down on the price that their offering....there's not much profit in the bike and the shop guys are really tired of it.

Instead, grind them on having their best guy build it for you like he would build it for himself.

Bring baked goods or BEER for a tip. Over time you'll get better service and prices than Joe Grinder.

I worked for more than a few years in the shops and I'm a wholesaler to the shops today.

[cantdrv55]

I think last month's Bicycling mag was the 2009 buyers guide.

For a $1.5 k budget, you'd probably end up with an aluminum frame, carbon forks and seat post, compact double or triple crank (your choice), Shimano 105 or low/mid grade Campy group. Replace the stock saddle with something that costs a bit more and get some clipless pedals. If you have some money left, buy a pair of bib shorts, base layer tank, a couple of jerseys, cycling socks and shoes and a seat bag. You're all set.

The brand of bike doesn't mater too much unless you're thinking WalMart. The fit is most important so get fitted.

[red-beard]

The "occasional dirt road" bothers me.

We do need some more info:

I would suggest 2 models:

Trek 2.3 ($1899 MSRP) and the Specialized Sequoia Elite ($1250 MSRP)

The Trek would take you to beginning time trials. The Specialized would get you back into riding, and give you all Shimano 105 components.

For some reason, for 2009, Trek went really cheap on the Trek 2.1

[DARISC]

Just returned from a Performance Bicycle store near me. I rode a Scattante CFR, 58" and like it. They're closing out the '08s and are selling it for $1299+tax, assembled. The full price was $2600 before the '09s came in. All cf, black and real purty. Oh, forget my comment about dirt roads.

What do you guys think?

[Dave L]

decent reviews

http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/2003-bikes/2003-road-bike/scattante/PRD_139500_4338crx.aspx

It seems like a lot of bike for the money, just be sure it fits well and they are willing to swap parts (seat, seat post, stem etc.) to get you the best fit.

What components are on that bike?

You are right to forget about dirt tracks, it would be sacreligous to take a bike that that off pavement.

[ruf-porsche]

Better not crash that CF frame or else it split in two like a Ferrari.

[DARISC]

Originally Posted by Dave L

What components are on that bike?

Lightweight carbon monocoque frame with carbon/aluminum fork.
Shimano 105 drivetrain with Ultegra rear derailleur.
FSA SLK Light Carbon cranks with MegaExo bottom bracket.
Oversized Forté Precision handlebar and stem.
Tektro R740 dual pivot calipers.
Kenda Forté Pro DC tires.
Alex ALX 270 wheelset with bladed spokes, aero rims and smooth rolling hubs.

Wheelset: Alex ALX 270, Front: 20H; Rear: 24H
Grips/Tape: Black Velo Cork
Fork: Carbon blade w/ Alloy steerer
Handlebar: Forté Precision 6061 Aluminum, 31.8mm
Stem: Forté Precision, 31.8mm clamp
Crankset: FSA CK-8681CC, 50/34T, Double
Headset: FSA IS-2 Integrated, 1 1/8”
Bottom Bracket: FSA MegaExo
Frame: Full Carbon Monocoque Frame
Seatpost: Kalloy SPC-100 Carbon/Alloy Black, 27.2 x 350mm
Tires: Kenda Forté Pro DC, 700c x 23
Chain: KMC DX-10SC
Pedals: NA
Rack Mounts: None
Cassette: Shimano 105 CS-5600, 11/25T, 10-speed
Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 FD-5600-B, Double, 31.8mm clamp
Levers: Shimano 105 ST-5600
Shifters: Shimano 105 ST-5600, 10-speed
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra ST-6600SS, 10-speed
Brakes: Tektro R740 Alloy, Silver
Saddle: Velo VL-1133U

[Bill Douglas]

Most important is the fit (like I mentioned earlier) if it doesn't fit you'll quit riding before long.

The bike shop should find a bike that fits you and set the seat/hanglebars etc for you. If they don't go elsewhere.

[Jim Bremner]

check pm

[Dave L]

I had Shimano 105 on my 1 and only road bike and it worked fine but there are a lot of reviews that claim broken and slow shifters. It might be worth upgrading the shifters.

[Eric Coffey]

For aluminum bikes, I liked the older Klein "Quantum" series. For a carbon bike, I would check out Orbea.

[turbo6bar]

I see a cheap wheelset and simple taiwanese carbon frameset. It is hardly worth $2600, unless bicycles have gone up in price dramatically.

Frugal man that I am, I'd advise a cheap starter bike (used even). Spend the remaining dollars on pro fitting (do this before you buy, even) along with the stem and saddle to work with you. Allocate some bucks on some riding gear.

So many ways to approach this, but if I had to do it all over again, I like Jim Bremner's approach. I would have saved so much time and hassle if I would have been fitted by a pro.

[red-beard]

Originally Posted by Dave L

I had Shimano 105 on my 1 and only road bike and it worked fine but there are a lot of reviews that claim broken and slow shifters. It might be worth upgrading the shifters.

1 year = broken left 105 shifter. The reviews are correct.

It was a small cast internal component, one without a replacement part #

I replaced them with Ultegra Shifters, off evil-bay

A Full carbon frame bike, even with 105 components, for $1300. That, sir, is a deal!

[sjf911]

I have 2 carbon framed road bikes. After going through several aluminum and titanium frames I have to say that carbon is my top choice. I won't go back. That looks like an excellent deal to get you started back in cycling as long as it fits properly. I wouldn't worry about inexpensive components to start. You will likely find yourself rapidly sliding down that slippery slope of upgrades if you find the passion returns.

[red-beard]

What do you find different about the CF frame over Aluminium or Steel?

[the]

A Raleigh 10 speed.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

http://www.backcountry.com/store/PIN0022/Pinarello-FP2-Road-Bike.html?CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&CMP_SKU=PIN0022&mv_pc=r126

(Their price is a bit high - you can find these new for about $1,600-$1,800 now). And yes, I'm biased - this is what I'm riding and it's a blast.

Mine - "The Bringer of Pain":