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Check out the newer HK P2000 series. They are pricey though, run single and double action, plastic frame, steel slide, super nice. The SIG Pro series and P-250 also warrant a look. I stole my SIG Pro 2340 for under $300. Traded it for a Remington 700.
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Will do HHI944.
I haven't shot the new HKs yet rick, but the Sigs are fantastic pieces of art. Unfortunately they're not real left hand friendly so they're not an option for me. This is the very first group i shot with my P7 PSP: ![]() Last edited by m21sniper; 09-07-2009 at 05:31 PM.. |
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The SIG P250 is DAK, as far as I know. Should be ambi. Can't remember how the slide catch works. The frame is not the interchangeable or serialized part. Very weird gun, but can be swapped to several calibers very easily. My wife has a Walther P-22, excellent gun.
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The slide release on most Sigs is in a terrible location for a lefty. I don't think i've ever handled a P250 though.
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Looks sweet. Let me know.
I have a silver gun (Detonics CombatMaster in polished stainless) and sometimes I have trouble seeing the front sight which is integral with the slide and thus also silver. Doesn't matter since it is not a precision shooter anyway. That is a gun I am saving for some gunsmithing someday. Would like to have a grip safety added, built up to be extra wide where the web of your shooting hand takes all the recoil (ouch). It is my only 1911. I do not feel comfortable carrying it cocked with only the manual safety that could potentially be wiped "off". The best front sight I've ever seen was on a Walther target pistol. Big crisp black post perfectly framed in the rear notch. Trigger was so light and crisp, it broke like a thin strand of glass, with almost no pull at all. Obviously not a carry weapon, with that trigger and no safety. Quote:
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Jyl: Carefully paint the front sight blade ramp of your Detonics flat black with an artists brush. That will help immensely. If the sights are pinned/staked or dovetailed in you can just buy Trijicon tritium night sights though (after re-reading your post i see it's integral). You could also send the entire slide out and have the tritium capsules installed by Trijicon. I swear by them. A competent gunsmith could also remove the integral sight and stake in a new front post.
For the beavertail grip safety, there are so many custom units on the market odds are one would be very close to what you're looking for without additional custom filling. To me carrying a Glock is like carrying a 1911 with the safety off- on purpose. To me it's just craziness. I love a good trigger pull, it's one of the absolute strengths of the P7 pistols. The factory trigger pull is almost orgasmic. Last edited by m21sniper; 09-01-2009 at 10:06 PM.. |
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BTW, I spoke with a Trijicon rep here at the NRA annual meeting. She said they replace the tritium gas capsules in their sights for around $50, which sure beats the hell out of the cost of new ones if you have a sight pusher tool. I'm on my second set on one of my P220's.
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Shot these along side others- amazing feel for the price. Some people think they are too small but I liked it. Ammo picky due to the action requiring some energy to feed correctly, but good ammo solved that.
I need to find a P99 to shoot to compare- I assume they are build similar to the P22's as far as materials go. I wouldn't mind picking up a P22 as a plinker just because, in my hands, it felt perfectly formed. Not alotta boom for a carry gun. I wish they made a .380 version - they used to make barrel kits for PPK's that went back and forth between 22 and 380...
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The CombatMaster front sight is integral with (milled from) the slide. I'll try the paint. The rear sight is a problem. It is a flat blade of metal held into the base with a set screw. The idea was that you could have interchangeable blades with different heights for elevation adjustment. But the recoil throws the blades out of the base and the blades are snaggy. I want to have that fixed, replaced with a proper rear sight, a Novak or something. Someday.
The grip safety would need custom work. The CM did not originally have a grip safety so it is not a drop-in job. It can be done though. Quote:
Last edited by jyl; 09-01-2009 at 10:12 PM.. |
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Quote:
$50.00 for an entire set of replacement tubes is a fantastic price. Last edited by m21sniper; 09-01-2009 at 10:13 PM.. |
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Quote:
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Hey Jyl, just gave "your" P7 a little face lift.
![]() ![]() Amazing how much eyeball a few cents worth of paint adds to a firearm, innit? Last edited by m21sniper; 09-03-2009 at 02:53 PM.. |
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How do you apply the paint? I'd like to do that to one of my guns.
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It only works with some finishes, it has to be a smooth hard finish. If it has a rough surface or is porous, it wont work well (or will take a LOT of effort). Blued guns work the best. You can do silver guns too. Red or Orange paint is most visible on those.
In any case, it's a simple process. Buy yourself some appliance touch up paint, bright white enamel (this stuff is mucho resistant to cleaning products). Simply dab the paint on with a small brush to totally fill the lettering, then wipe the paint off with soft toilet paper. The letters will stay filled, and the paint on the surface will wipe right off. If you have residue after wiping, just gently rub the area with wet scotchbrite pad.(the green semi-coarse stuff on the back side of a kitchen sponge). The "HK P7" on the grips was the only part that was tricky, because it's plastic. Plastic can be a real ***** because it's often an uneven surface. If you get an area that doesnt want to give up the leftover film, carefully apply some nailpolish remover to a q-tip and rub it until the excess paint residue comes off. Once you get the hang of it, it takes a matter of minutes to do it. ![]() Just be sure to wait a good week before you use any chemicals/cleaning products/oils on the firearm. I'm doing my M4 now, then my Savage 1905 .32 auto. I'll post pix of them when done. Last edited by m21sniper; 09-03-2009 at 03:20 PM.. |
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OK, here's the Savage .32 auto....
![]() This one has a nice hi polish blue finish, so it took literally 30 seconds to do. (I'll wait a day and ad another coat) |
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The AR
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This is the one I have arriving next week.
![]() This is the build I'm planning. All parts are in the mail. ![]()
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brownells sells the crayons with multiple color flavors. dirt cheap like $3.
i have accented some of mine also. on others just highlighted the "S" and "F". S with white and F with red. red yer dead=bang! i found wiping a light cloth with barely any hoppes solvent over area to be colored and then rubbing small amts of crayon, then wiping again lighty with hoppes does the trick. a tooth pick sometimes helps or a machinist's scribe. looks cool m-21. did the same with all of my hks. MUY BUENO GROUP! |
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Looks nice Rick. My brother's Colt HBAR has those same handguards, they're really sweet. I'm going to go with the Hogue overmolded furntire though. Love the look of those.
Also going to add a frame wedge, an ambi safety, and a match grade trigger group. It's damn accurate now, so with a nice light match trigger it should be stupid accurate...like my P7. ![]() Hey do you guys know if anyone makes an ambi mag-release for ARs? Here they are both done: ![]() Last edited by m21sniper; 09-03-2009 at 06:05 PM.. |
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So i got the P7 M8, took it to the range and fired it alongside my PSP.
The PSP shot circles around the M8- it was significantly more accurate. I sold the P7 M8 within 24 hours for a $200 dollar profit, and my PSP is now on it's way to Trijicon to get night sights installed. By the way, i did rapid fire 6 mags through the P7 M8 at the fastest possible speed. 49 rounds of standard pressure FMJ. Oh yeah, that son of a ***** gets hot. LOL.... Of course i only have 3 mags for my PSP so it's a total non-issue in the real world. |
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