New Glock 34... Of course I "MUST" mod it

Tim Hancock · 09-09-2009, 08:29 AM

After competing in a couple low key "IDPA style" events, I had to buy a Glock 34 even though I was never a fan of Glocks. The 34 and 35 models (9mm & 40 cal) are pretty much built by Glock solely for these types of competition and are used by nearly all top national caliber competitors.

I have a big list of stuff to buy as I get into this, but first order of business is a new set of sights. Most of the top guys are using the Warren Tactical Sevigny Competition set-up which has a large slanted black rear face with a wider than normal slot and a very skinny front blade with a tiny fiber optic near the tip.

After reading and researching the blade/notch dimensions, I figured I could save the $85.00 bucks or so and build a set just like it. So I grabbed a small chunk of 4140 "pre-hard" and fired up the old Bridgeport. I am not a machinist, so this would be a challenge to make such a tiny intricate part out of difficult to machine material. The dovetail is non standard, so I had to grind my own cutter, but tediously got a perfect fit before cutting it into three seperate rear sights. Thus far I have one done and the other two just need the top fillets cut.

Next I will need to make the front blade. I already made a tool to remove the front screw and I have some fiber optic cable from work to install.

rough cutting prepping to dovetail

dovetail cut

thinning down the front section prior to using a ball mill to create the front curve

one finished and black oxided to see how it looks

71T Targa · 09-09-2009, 08:32 AM

WOW, I wish I had your talent! and tools.

jyl · jyl's Garage

"not a machinist" - who you kidding?

Tim Hancock · 09-09-2009, 08:38 AM

A pic showing an actual Sevigny Competition sight to see what I am trying to duplicate.

Tim Hancock · 09-09-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl

"not a machinist" - who you kidding?

I spent all day Monday (Labor day) and a couple hours last night to get to where I am. I am pretty sure a competent machinist with a CNC and proper carbide tools could whip these out much faster. I am truly a newbie when it comes to time spent at the wheels of a milling machine. I probably have more time at the controls over the last two days than I have had total since I bought this old machine a couple years ago. Thus far I am getting by solely on patience.

BlueSkyJaunte · 09-09-2009, 08:57 AM

Nice job!

Looking_for_911 · 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl

"not a machinist" - who you kidding?

Exactly! having worked in a machine shop I recognize a man who is a machinist. Your average street monkey couldn't do that work!

Very nice, indeed!

porsche4life · porsche4life's Garage

Damn Tim you need to live closer to me. I try to build stuff but we only have the basics. Brakes, welders and plasmas. A good machining setup would be nice.

charleskieffner · 09-13-2009, 05:19 AM

ah a man after my own heart. ACCESSORIZE!

once you shoot a custom pistole/rifle/snotgun YOU WILL NEVER BE HAPPY WITH ANY OUT OF THE BOX VEAPON!

man just being around custom veapons is a thrill in and of itself. checking out all the platforms and add on gizmos.

checking the targets is what really throws you over the edge.

next.........custom 9mm match ammo reloads. hahahaha

Tim Hancock · 09-13-2009, 07:19 AM

Just about done after too many hours.

I had to make custom screws as Glock uses a b@stard 2.5m-.5 metric front sight screw with a 3/16 hex head. I went with 3-48 thread as I had the tap and some slot head screws. I had to tap a tiny nut to 3-48 then intsalled it and a screw into a brass fixture. I chucked this in the lathe then turned off the exposed screw head, then I tig welded, then faced off what remained o leave me with a .032 thick 3/16 hex head 3-48 screw. A little dicey, but they came out great.

I cheated a bit by having a machinist at work grind my front sight blade stack to exactly .117" and had him cut the key shape into the stock that just fits the slide hole on a CNC because I woul not have been able to cut the radii on my old non-CNC Bridgeport. Back at home I sized the stock, then I made my sight posts a little tall and installed one for test firing prior to adding the serrations and the .040 dia fiber optics hole. I started at .245" tall and ended up at .225" tall after multiple test fire sessions at 25yds with the gun mounted in a vice. Next I carefully drilled the .040" dia (#60 drill) fiber optic hole near the top of the post. Next I used a 60 deg dovetail cutter to add the 70 lpi terraced serrations on the face.

The sight picture is awesome and is much easier/quicker to rapidly acquire targets. I still need to somehow insert my fiber optic glass strands. I may end up cheating by buying some small plastic fiber optic sticks to experiment with.

Some pics of the screw

Front sight

m21sniper · 08:13 AM

Work looks awesome, i'd love to let you at my P7's sharp edges and hefty steel body to see just how much you could reduce the weight. Your skills are awesome.

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just buy a set of Millet Adjustable sights for about $150.00?

Your work is awesome, it just seems like you put a LOT of time into this for a pretty inexpensive part.

Anyway, great workmanship, i wish you were my neighbor!!!

Tim Hancock · 09-13-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m21sniper

Your work is awesome, it just seems like you put a LOT of time into this for a pretty inexpensive part.

Anyway, great workmanship, i wish you were my neighbor!!!

I now have three sets of sights... I could sell a set and still have a set to mount on another Glock if I end up getting nother one.

I do this kind of stuff all the time as I get great satisfaction from the challenge of learning/honing new skills while making myself stuff that my wife does not appreciate me spending money on. She already was pretty honked off that I just blew $600 on "another" gun. While $100 seems like chump change, with all my varied hobbies, those $100 dollar orders stack up real quick.

I will probaby build my own Kydex holster and mag poches next. (That will save another $100)

I am also building some target stands and some steel targets. I have a buddy who offered to leave me an endloader for a weekend which I will use to move dirt from my MX track over to a spot behind my shop for a backstop. Of course I could pay someone several hundred dollars to do this, but where is the fun in that?

jyl · jyl's Garage

Tim, you can smooth out the Glock trigger by polishing the sliding surfaces on the trigger bar. It is effective. You can change the pull weight by swapping trigger bars, the difference is the angle of those surfaces. You can also add a little weight to the nose by using a steel recoil spring guide. I don't know what mods are permitted in your IDPA competitions but FYI.

Tim Hancock · 09-13-2009, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl

Tim, you can smooth out the Glock trigger by polishing the sliding surfaces on the trigger bar. It is effective. You can change the pull weight by swapping trigger bars, the difference is the angle of those surfaces. You can also add a little weight to the nose by using a steel recoil spring guide. I don't know what mods are permitted in your IDPA competitions but FYI.

.25 cent trigger job is next, and I will be ordering a "ghost" connector and some springs at some point. I think I read that in one of the organizations the guide rod needs to remain plastic. I have a friend that competes nationally (owns 9 Glocks last time I checked

) that has given me a list of the trigger parts he has found work best for him. I think I will shoot it awhile with the basically stock clunky trigger as it is quite different to DA/SA guns I am used to. "If" I can get decent with the stock trigger, the whiz bang parts will really make me shine.

m21sniper · 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock

I now have three sets of sights... I could sell a set and still have a set to mount on another Glock if I end up getting nother one.

I do this kind of stuff all the time as I get great satisfaction from the challenge of learning/honing new skills while making myself stuff that my wife does not appreciate me spending money on. She already was pretty honked off that I just blew $600 on "another" gun. While $100 seems like chump change, with all my varied hobbies, those $100 dollar orders stack up real quick.

I will probaby build my own Kydex holster and mag poches next. (That will save another $100)

I am also building some target stands and some steel targets. I have a buddy who offered to leave me an endloader for a weekend which I will use to move dirt from my MX track over to a spot behind my shop for a backstop. Of course I could pay someone several hundred dollars to do this, but where is the fun in that?

I feel ya bro. Anyway, it's absolutely awesome work man.

I'm really very impressed with your work.

BRPORSCHE · 09-13-2009, 10:22 AM

You should see his violin...

Tim as always amazing workmanship. One day I hope to have 1/10th your skills.

jyl · jyl's Garage

so no chance of seeing you slot the slide and compensate the barrel?

Are you going to build your own magwell?

I thought some of the competition holsters were clip-type, open-front designs. I would love to see what you come up with. I think a "blast shield" to eliminate shooting one's foot or knee during a flubbed draw would be nice.

Quote:

Quote de jyl

Tim, you can smooth out the Glock trigger by polishing the sliding surfaces on the trigger bar. It is effective. You can change the pull weight by swapping trigger bars, the difference is the angle of those surfaces. You can also add a little weight to the nose by using a steel recoil spring guide. I don't know what mods are permitted in your IDPA competitions but FYI.

.25 cent trigger job is next, and I will be ordering a "ghost" connector and some springs at some point. I think I read that in one of the organizations the guide rod needs to remain plastic. I have a friend that competes nationally (owns 9 Glocks last time I checked

) that has given me a list of the trigger parts he has found work best for him. I think I will shoot it awhile with the basically stock clunky trigger as it is quite different to DA/SA guns I am used to. "If" I can get decent with the stock trigger, the whiz bang parts will really make me shine.

Schumi · 09-13-2009, 01:14 PM

you do your own black oxiding? is it a cold process? I'd like to know more about that...

Tim Hancock · 09-13-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl

I thought some of the competition holsters were clip-type, open-front designs. I would love to see what you come up with. I think a "blast shield" to eliminate shooting one's foot or knee during a flubbed draw would be nice.

I bought a cheap used Fobus kydex paddle holster to use last weekend, but will probably build a new custom holster out of Kydex (looks like a fun project after searching "kydex holster press" on Google

). I will check out a buddies Comp-tac holster he uses with his Glocks then copy the features into my DIY holster and mag pouches.

Tim Hancock · 09-13-2009, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schumi

you do your own black oxiding? is it a cold process? I'd like to know more about that...

Yes, I grabbed a small jar of the blackening agent from work. We used to order it by the gallon from Birchwood Casey for small parts and touch-ups at work. We call it black oxide at work, but it is a cold blackening product. You simply clean the steel of ALL traces of oil, then dunlk them in for a few minutes. It works OK, but not as good as when we send batches of parts to the local industrial plating shop.