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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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Teach me about miter saws
There seem to be tons of options, blade size, compound, sliding, dual sliding, etc... Prices run from <$100 to >$500.
I do stuff around the house from time to time. I'm getting ready to replace a bunch of molding (baseboards and casing around windows and doors and some crown molding). Within a couple of years, I'll probably be redoing the molding upstairs. I'd like a decent quality model with decent performance, but I'm not a carpenter, so I don't need a top of the line shop model. I just don't want to spend $300 to later find out that I'd have been fine with a $150-200 model. I also don't want to spend $150 to later find out that I got junk. From what I've seen, "compound" and "sliding" are things that you want, but I bow to your more experienced opinions. After 12ish years in my first house, I'm tired of using ![]() Thanks
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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I've got a home depot, Ryobi with the little laser doo daad (which you can buy at harbor freight and add on to any saw I guess for $3) - I don't recall paying more than $150 for it and I use it for exactly what you're talking about. I'm doing the same thing around my house and without this saw I'd be much less likely to do it. With a nice blade it makes very clean and precise cuts.
If I wanted to splurge I would have gotten a sliding one as it can be more useful in the long run but I didn't.
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I use a 12" compound, sliding miter saw and wouldn't trade it for a simpler or smaller version. It really depends on what sort of crown molding you're going to replace and how large it is. The other stuff (base, casing) isn't as demanding.
I use mine for a lot of things other than moldings. This, and a table saw, are two things I couldn't live without. JR |
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not as smart as I think
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern California
Posts: 769
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The larger the blade, the bigger the piece of wood you can cut. If you are looking to cut molding, you do not need anything larger than a 10" blade, and likely a smaller blade will work (depending on the size of your molding).
I would suggest that compound is good (allowing you to cut 45 degrees in either direction) and worthwhile for what you are doing. Sliding is good too, but it turns your miter saw into a reasonably effective tablesaw with one large draw back being the size of the table. A tablesaw is considered by most to be the most important tool in a woodshop. That being the case, I would suggest getting a REAL tablesaw. All of that being said, my opinion is that you purchase a compound miter saw. You can get one of these for under $200.00 new and probably less on Craigslist. I would also suggest Craigslist for a tablesaw when the need arises. Of course, that advise is probably worth what you paid for it...
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Hitachi or Dewalt - you can't go wrong with either one. Compound only is readily available for ~$200 where if you include the sliding feature the price goes up another $200 or so. My first saw was a simple Delta compound only - paid something like $100 new for it. It lasted 7 years before it starting having problems and the auto-brake stopped working (deal breaker - very dangerous). I upgraded to a Dewalt $175 saw and have been very happy. Miter saws make short work of moulding and I have installed 2-3 hardwood floors with them. The sliding feature is very handy and allows you to work with larger material. Depending on what type of job you're doing you're gonna want to upgrade the blade - expect to pay $50 for a good one but it makes a HUGE difference. My Father has a sliding Hitachi with nice table top stand - I'm talking the expensive $700 range stuff. Very Very nice.
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If you are planning on doing a lot of molding, go with the better quality, and little larger blade. Nothing more frustrating with crown molding than an inaccurate cut. My 12 inch was a little small for the job, and not as precise as I would have liked. Very interested in the recommendations here as I plan on upgrading also!
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I have had cheap saws and expensive saws.
I now have a compound sliding 12" Makita and it is wonderful to work with. Everyone I know who does carpentry has a cheaper style miter saw that they own. Eventually they all come around to borrow my saw for one reason or the other and always state that they hate to give it back. But you can definitely get by with a cheap saw. After all, it's just a motor with a blade attached to it. Price increases get you better options, a better platform, more powerful motor and brake, more comfortable ergonomics, etc. One feature that I use a lot is the switch box you can buy that hooks up your shop vac to the power switch on the saw. When the saw is started, the shop vac starts as well. Very nice little add on.
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A $69.00 home center special is all that the average homeowner will ever need.
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forgot to mention that mine is compound - wouldn't be worth a damned if it wasn't.
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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Quote:
I did our existing crown molding with the miter box and hand saw that I posted in the original post. Our crown molding is about 4-5" long. It was a huge pain in the arse. I've got one of these. ![]() I have to think that either the box or table saw would be as good as the $69 miter. I've got a bit more budget to work with to get a better saw that will help me get better results and possible eventually cut flooring. I guess I'll have to do some shopping. I've been thinking that Craigslist may be a good place to work if I can find a nice enough model cheap enough.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() Last edited by masraum; 03-18-2010 at 09:17 AM.. |
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Back in the saddle again
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Location: Central TX west of Houston
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Right, I can't imagine it working for something like crown molding if it wasn't.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Champagne on Beer Budget
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I've owned a Dewalt DW712 for about 5 years...Pure workhorse! Done baseboards, crown molding, door trim..etc..etc. The saw has also been used to cut thin gauge aluminum like bath door frames and most recently my 3" aluminum intercooler piping..
Can't go wrong with Dewalt....my $0.02
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I have an older Hitachi 10" compound non-slider and a Milwaukee 12" compound slider. The Hitachi motor is smoother and more quiet. Dust collection is pathetic. The Milwaukee slider handles larger trim easily and the 12" blade can miter (bevel or miter) >5.25" material. The 10 non-slider can barely handle 5.25" base. The Milwaukee's dust collection is quite nice, but still not perfect. I live with it because I am hesitant to dump the cash on a Festool rig.
If I were buying again, the Milwaukee would still be on the shortlist. Makita's 10 or 12" slider would be in the mix, as well. For whatever reason, the newer Hitachi's don't catch my eye, but that doesn't mean you should overlook them. Don't buy a saw at the top of your budget, necessarily. It's nice to have a second blade for cutting raw lumber and a dedicated blade for trim and woodworking. If you're doing trim work, I recommend one of the coping jigs. It improves the quality of your cope dramatically. I want to try the coping foot some time. In rambling, I am glossing over my point; that is, save some bucks for accessories. I don't think you must have a slider. It's a nice feature. You can well with a regular saw, but I would definitely get something with a taller fence (at least 4") for cutting crown upside down and backwards. In short, don't buy the top line model and expect perfection. A lot of times, it's the hack at the controls that's the biggest influence. I'd rather have a good saw with extra blades and a killer workstation instead of a Festool miter saw and nothing else. |
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A craigslist saw that hasn't been abused would be a great buy at the right price.
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Back in the saddle again
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OK, it looks like "sliding" may raise the price to more than I want to spend.
What's the difference between compound, compound single-bevel and compound double bevel?
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Back in the saddle again
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So, miter is the cuts across the wide portion of the wood, and the bevel is cut along the thin side, I think, is that correct?
So compound does miter or bevel. And then single bevel vs double would be a saw that only rotates 1 direction vs both directions?
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Quote:
This is enough saw for anybody. Some guys get spoiled with the sliding ones but This is enough saw to build anything the average homeowner needs. Ive built hundreds of projects from crown molding to birdhouses with one of these and never once did I say "I wish this thing was a sliding one" . Im sure the sliding feature has it merits as does all new features on anything does . But lets not confuse this dude . I dont think he is building a house in the hollywood hills with this thing. He just needs a good all around multi use saw. |
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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The Delta looks nice. Looks like amazing value. Before I saw that link, I saw this
Hitachi 12" Dual Bevel Compound Miter Saw 15A $269 Shop Hitachi 12" Dual Bevel Compound Miter Saw with Laser Marker at Lowes.com Which seems like a pretty good deal considering DEWALT 10" 15-Amp Sliding Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw 15A $424 Shop DEWALT 10" 15-Amp Sliding Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw at Lowes.com I wonder about the quality of some of the stuff for sale at the big box stores though.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
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I have a cheap one like that, It does work well and I have done base boards, door frames, cut lumber for framing walls and built a deck using it. The only MAJOR frustration is that its an odd sized blade so finding reasonably priced blades is pretty much impossible. I would buy a 10inch model next time.
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