Just some tree cutting questions.

fastfredracing · 04-22-2010, 05:08 PM

O.k. so forgive me , I am kind of new to this.
I have been cutting firewood for the last 3 years now. I have taken down a whole bunch of 20-30 ft trees on my property, and maybe 5 or 6 big trees, probably 45-60 ft.
So far, I have fallen every one right where I planned, and managed not to hurt my self, or anyone else. Now, I have 3 big ones to take down, that have the potential to end up in my living room if I am not careful
Can you ABSOLUTELY control which way a tree will fall by the cut you make? The next one I am taking down is already leaning in the direction I want it to fall, but the two others are a little bit iffy.
I am thinking of climbing up and roping off to my dump truck and have someone in the truck to help give a little tug just to be safe. .
I just dont want to end up one of those guys who ends up on America's funniest video's . And this would be hard to explain to my insurance guy.

vangndy · 04-22-2010, 05:28 PM

i took out 3 60 palms a couple weeks ago. we rented a boom a 30 foot boom which got us up high enough to tie 2 100 ft ropes around each tree. that gets hooked up to a hitch on our pickup. with a notch cut in the front and the a little pressure from the truck they went down easy. the house faced a was at the top of a T intersection so we just dropped straight into the road. Another method is to use a boom to get up high with a polesaw and cut off smaller manageable sections working your way down. My work is mostly landscaping but we do trees as long as we are comfortable with it. having said that, if you any doubt whatsoever as to your ability to handle this it is best to hire someone, there is alot that could go wrong here.

jwhcars · 04-22-2010, 05:49 PM

If you use a rope make darn sure that the distance to your truck is far enough that the tree will not hit it. I have used a rope and another tree that you can wrap it around if need be. I feel more in control doing it by hand verses a truck.
I have dropped many a tree and they can and do strange things at times. Watch out for the wind , other trees and limbs.
Make sure if you use a rope that it is sized properly , you do not want it to snap and cause the tree to whip back and fall on your house.

pwd72s · 04-22-2010, 05:53 PM

Sometimes it's best to hire a pro with a bucket, and whittle down from the top...

unclebilly · unclebilly's Garage

I used to be a tree topper. The trick is to climb the tree (limb it on the way up, and cut off the top 10 - 15' and then 4' chunks on the way down. They fall straight down.

Don't cut through your harness or run the tip of the saw into your hand like my buddy did 60' up one time.

vash · vash's Garage

wait..dont you cut a wedge out of the trunk on the side you want the tree to fall, then you start cutting from the other side? when it lets go..it goes in the right place...in theory.

scary stuff.

unclebilly · unclebilly's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by vash

wait..dont you cut a wedge out of the trunk on the side you want the tree to fall, then you start cutting from the other side? when it lets go..it goes in the right place...in theory.

scary stuff.

Depends on what side of the tree has more branches, if the tree is already leaning, what way the wind is blowing...

The wedge has to go more than 1/2 way through. Usially you want to take out 2/3 with your wedge. Cut the straight cut first, then the upper cut for the bottom part of the cut. Careful not to let the bar jam.

Then start at the back side and slowly cut through your holding wood until it starts to fall. Do it slowly.

Heel n Toe · 04-22-2010, 10:26 PM

Fred, no matter what, at least have somebody on site with a video camera just in case it does turn into an AFV-worthy event.

You can post it here first.

Seriously, all the advice above is good... especially that concerning diameter/strength of the rope, length of the rope, and wind and nearby trees' limbs. Common sense stuff, but as you'll notice on AFV, not everyone can "do" common sense.

Grog · 04-23-2010, 12:20 AM

Rope is good, you can get a lot of leverage with a rope. Don't forget some plastic wedges to sledge hammer into your back cut to help the tree go the right way. Had some 20 year old "logger" hired by neighbor drop a 130' fur 50' from my house and 10' from my tractor. Took out my 2 week old fence.

oldE · 04-23-2010, 03:45 AM

Lots of interesting and, in some cases conflicting advice here.

If you don't go the rope/guy line route to fine tune the fall line of the tree(s), you can control the fall of the tree with a properly formed notch and, if needed, wedges.

The notch should be cut on the side of the desired direction of fall and cut no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the way into the tree. Ensure the back edge of the notch is straight and at right angles to the direction of fall. You are going to use the wood at this line as a hinge.

Begin your cut on the back side of the tree. If there is any concern of the tree tipping over backward, use nylon or hardwood wedges, driven into the kerf (after the saw bar has cut in far enough to give you room, this is why your notch should be the smaller cut).

As you approach the notch, if all is well, the tree should be starting over. If the tree leans back on the bar of the saw, drive your wedges in further. DO NOT CUT THE HINGE material if you want any hope of controlling the direction of fall. Leave about 1 - 2 inches of wood, depending upon the size of the tree, for an effective hinge.

Have fun

Les

enzo1 · 09:15 AM

STIHL Incorporated USA -- Information -- Manufacturing the World's Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws and this 1 ... http://www.arboristsite.com/index.php? how not to "fell" a tree http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eylhTyZSadU&feature=related