Garage floor coatings

[cashflyer]

Does anyone here have fist-hand experience with either or both of these products?


Aliphatic based epoxy - same composition the professionals that I phoned were going to use. Epoxy-Coat

Water based epoxy that I see touted on car shows all the time. Endorsed by Leno and race teams. UCoat It

[Evans, Marv]

I just bought 2 kits from Epoxy Coat not too long ago. Haven't put it down yet, so I'll be able to speak more authoritatively after I do. I do have the garage cleaned out though and will start grinding the floor using a 9" grinder with a 7" diamond disk to rough it up. I decided to do that instead of using the etching solution because I had reinforcing fiber put in the slab mix when it was poured. I was thinking it would be super expensive to have somebody come in and do the grinding, so I checked out good ole Harbor Freight. They had 9" grinder for around $45 and the 7" diamond disk for around $45, so I decided to give it a try myself. I gave a small patch a shot already, and it seems like it will be reasonably easy. I will just hold on to the handle of the grinder and let it float over the surface of the floor. I'll also have to use a respirator because it's going to kick a huge amount of dust.

[Dantilla]

I used water based epoxy on my garage floor at home. Big mistake.

The airplane hangar got the really stinky stuff, and it's held up exceptionally well.

[cashflyer]

Originally Posted by Dantilla

I used water based epoxy on my garage floor at home. Big mistake.

The airplane hangar got the really stinky stuff, and it's held up exceptionally well.

I had read similar accounts on the web, but wanted to check with the braintrust here also. You seem to have had the same experience as others.

Tell me.... what about the water based epoxy product was the problem area?

[RWebb]

generally speaking, the chemicals that will kill you the fastest are the most effective

[HardDrive]

Originally Posted by RWebb

generally speaking, the chemicals that will kill you the fastest are the most effective

True dat.

Conversion varnish sealers (Swedish finishes) for wood floors are amazingly tough, but WOW are they toxic and stinky.

[john70t]

About 8 years back, I used Lowes 2-part epoxy American Tradition(now bought by valspar) and liked it. Stained easily, but was invincible to chemicals.

About 3 years ago I used the Valspar water based garbage. Spread so thin that it required 3-4 coats just to get smooth. Slick as ice with any water. Started peeling with minimal use afer a year.

[MattKellett]

I've had a 2 part epoxy floor installed now for 8 years and not one area has lifted or cracked.

I used the etching method with acid and rinsed while etching and then power washed and then power washed again. Then scrubed and power washed some more.

It really is all in the prep, if you skip or think "that'll do", then I think you'll have problems further down the road.

I really wouldn't go the grinding method unless your floor is covered in grease or bad contaminates. The etch really only just breaks the fine surface particles and leaves basically an 80 grit finish. I can't imagine how this would effect a fiber reinforced concrete.

Good luck, as it'll all be worth it in the end.

Here's a link with some photos of my garage floor - Garage Floor Paint?

[Dantilla]

Originally Posted by cashflyer

Tell me.... what about the water based epoxy product was the problem area?

Started flaking up fairly soon. First under where the tires sit, now just about everywhere except under the workbench.

[R K T]

Been researching different types of floor options for my new virgin garage. I found a forum for this kind of info..... www.garagejournal.com (click on forums) LOTS of discussion on just about everything garage related. After having ceramic tile, vinyl tile, commercial grade carpet in my past garages I'm leaning toward concrete stain. Some really great looking effects being done with staining concrete.

[Dantilla]

Originally Posted by R K T

Some really great looking effects being done with staining concrete.

Yes. Stained concrete looks great.

-BUT-

Having a solid color floor makes every little nut & washer stand out like a beacon when working under a car. No more scratching your head, wondering where that itty bitty part rolled off to. Solid color for me, the lighter the better.

[red-beard]

I used a Rust-o-leoum product from HomeDepot 6.5 years ago. It was a Virgin garage and Car Port. It is gray with the paint flecks. I used the paint flecks inside, none outside. it has held up fine. I think I used 3 kits over 4 car spaces. And it was 102+ when I spread the friggen stuff.

[Evans, Marv]

Matt, Epoxy Coat suggested using the grinder on my floor (new) because of the fiber. According to them if it is etched, the little fibers stick up. When the coating is applied, the fibers end up sticking up through the surface - at least in places. Covered with the epoxy, they end up like little needles. It's either grind or burn the surface with a propane torch and sweep them out the door.

[MattKellett]

Marv - I'd definitely go with what the manufacturer recommends. I was just trying to point out that when the floor is etched, it really doesn't remove hardly any material, basically just breaks the surface. But the last thing you need is lots of little needles- ouch!

When our shop floor was painted, the company that painted the floor used a machine grinder, similar to a large vacuum. Maybe it would be possible to rent one of these to save you some time, I just can't imagine kneeling on the floor with a disk grinder.

I'm sure it'll look great when you have it finished.

[Evans, Marv]

Actually like I said, I ground a small area after I brought the grinder & disk home. It's going to go pretty fast. The holding of the grinder by the handle and letting it "float" over the surface will go quickly. Of course I will have to use a sander in the corners and other places I can't get to with the disk. When I ground that small area (about 2 square ft.), I couldn't believe the amount of concrete dust it kicked up.