*
Snow surfing season will soon be here, Richard ..

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Thanks guys, I hear you and feel and value your aloha.

Cheers Richard

Is that a middle-aged Tommy Curren? He was my idol in the 80's and would make frequent appearances at my break (Trestles) in my early 20's.

Yep looks like Tom Current to me. He sure chose an interestion surfing life.

I once got ride a nearly perfect break, in Tahiti. Not a well known spot internationally.
But it had an amazing setup fairly easy take off, then walled up down the line to the right, then the lip started pitching in into a clean barrel that just pulled you in. Gave you the perfect green shack for moments.l Then the wave slowed down and let you out the front door often with dry hair and a big smile on your face. And with enough speed to carry you over the shoulder and into the channel for an easy paddle out.

This spot had the clearest water, and beautiful reef covered with colorful fish, all trying to distract you at the important moments. ��
It did this wave after wave for days at the right tide.
Almost too good to be true.
The sort perfection that people say they would tire of.

Nope I never did, some of the best days of my surfing life.
Maybe if it went on endlessly, I might have wanted a change, doubt it!

Cheers Richard

I think this old photo is of Pat Curren, Tom's dad ..

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Great pic Geary, of the historic period of surfing in Hawaii.
Those pioneers of that period must have been fearless .
Opening up new breaks with that kind of equipment.

Big respect!

Cheers Richard

First of all: WOAH! What a gal!


Next, watching the movie I wondered how often a surfer gets hit by a board or fin?!
I mean, she surfs "over" a lot of people, very close all the time. Look at 2:11 in the movie for example.

B.O. at Sunset Beach circa 1978 - photo by Lance Trout

https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...87&oe=58CD83B4

The water color is right, but that's a pretty good pitch for medium size Sunset. Are you sure that's not backdoor?



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Our friend Jeff Hakman won the first Duke contest @ 17 with a pretty nice Sunset tube ride, and that shot does look like the inside line-up. Jeff had to play hooky from high school that day to compete. Peter Cole was our math teacher, and coincidentally he was also sick that day ..

The ecoFin is the world’s first surfboard fin made from ocean waste

“We’re just two surfers that decided we could no longer ignore plastic pollution in our oceans." -Luise Grossmann

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480487857.jpg

Whether it is collected from the ocean or will end up there, FiveOceans founders Luise Grossmann and Felix Wunner give ocean rubbish a new life. The ecoFin is the world’s first surfboard fin made using plastic collected from the Indian Ocean, and proves that it’s possible to close the cycle with ocean waste and make high quality surf gear.

Matt George: What was the genesis for this idea?
Luise Grosmann: In 2015, on a surf trip to Bali, we were shocked by the pollution on the beaches and floating out in the surf breaks. We paddled out through plastic bags and packaging and watched the tides bring more and more waste ashore. It broke our hearts. 5.25 trillion pieces of plastic are floating across the world’s five oceans. This is a surfer’s problem. Clear and simple. And not a lot of people other than surfers are ever going to do anything about it.

With our backgrounds in engineering, we decided to use what we knew best to find a solution. Our ecoFin is the world’s first high performance surfboard fin made from ocean waste. There it is. No longer do we need to choose between performance and environmental impact.

More: The ecoFin is the world’s first surfboard fin made from ocean waste | Swellnet Dispatch | Swellnet

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Fred Hemmings Ala Moana 1959
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480540381.JPG

I think this is Harold "Iggy" Ige (Ala Mo)
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Ala Moana...Not a good place for a mainlander tourist to paddle out :eek: ...Unless all you plan to do is take pictures (or you're Kelly Slater)

1967 - I'd gone off to college in San Diego, and hadn't yet purchased a wetsuit. Got myself a 9'7" board, and wouldn't you know it, the mini board revolution hit about 2 weeks later.

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Nice pic, Geary!

I think it was around '68 when I got my first board - a 9' 3" Hobie. I remember the short board revolution happening right about that time. It was a fantastic and wild time in surfing history!

I ended up cutting my Hobie down and reshaping to make my own short board. This was right after we moved to Florida in early 1970. Then I bought a new short board from Ron Jon's in Cocoa beach. It was a tri-fin Surfboards Australia for $89.00 plus tax....brand new. I thought the 3 fin option would be cool. Little did I know....

Those really were exciting times. I remember a guy (Bob Foley?) who rode a 7' board in the '60s .. We all laughed at the notion.

Who would ever have believed that 40 years later, these guys would be riding even shorter boards?

Mikala Jones @ Peahi
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China anyone?

https://www.facebook.com/WSL/videos/10154184361897058/