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[QUOTE=Heel n Toe;9461885]There's a tiny bit of surfer content here... enjoy. Hands down, my favorite Superbowl ad... and the music is perfect. Anyone know the song/artist?[QUOTE]
Song by Nina Simone, "I wish I knew how it would feel to be free," and voice over by actor Bryan Cranston http://surfmag.pl/wp-content/uploads...bolt_2_475.jpg |
Friend of mine who did a lot of surf photography back in the day has been posting on FB old surfing pics he took. Here's a nice one of JL slotted at the NSB inlet.....
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b1&oe=58FFD62B He said this is 1 of a 10 shot sequence - that had JL coming out clean.... |
Another nice one of JL at our Inlet......from back in the day......
https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6a&oe=59362E1F |
An old one of me. I don't have any new pics now that people want to use their (crap) phones as cameras.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488427503.jpg |
Nice shot Bill, kind of back dooring that section. Yowza!
It is funny how few pics most of us have from many years in the water. You are looking good there Brother. Cheers Richard |
Thanks Richard. that board had some real get up and go, so it made that section easily. A buddy had a cute girlfriend who was into cameras and she took some great pics that day.
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Can anybody guess this break. I went by there today to check it out. Here's a hint...The water shin deep.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488513558.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488513569.jpg |
I don't know but it is a sh it serious looking wave.
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VERY NICE pic, Bill! Looks like a ripper day! :D |
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Another local one by my friend Pat, who took most of the local photos of us surfers back in the 70's, 80's and 90's. Pat went with me and Ono to Rincon, PR in 1973 on my first surf trip outside the continental US. Anyway - this one is of local legend Terry "Poker" Pressley. Poker lives 1 block away from me in the same house he's lived in since the 70's.
He's a legend on the East Coast.....and rightly so.... https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=592565F1 |
Another pic from the 80's that Pat just posted - this time of Clay Lyles, one of a group from Orlando who migrated over here after finishing high school. Clay was one of the first to buy a shaping machine and still runs a business making boards. I just did some work at his house down in Bethune where he lives with his doberman, Cocoa.
We have a lot of days you could call fun. And the water is warm too. :) https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=59289412 |
Another local pic from the 80's taken by Pat. Poker going left and RP going right. At our inlet. No wasted waves!
https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...34&oe=5965B0F6 |
Another local pic and description in Charlie's own words:
This board was a 6'10" Harold Iggy single fin, single wing pintail that I brought back from Hawaii in 1976. The board was great a Rocky Point and it worked great in NSB. Charlie Baldwin https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=59723A04 |
Another local pic of JL......he said he broke his board two waves later.......
https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f5&oe=59610E9B |
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I have a paddleboard in the colors of a killer whale. Hoping it keeps the great whites away when I'm down-winding a couple miles out. |
TODAYS COLUMN IN THE OC REGISTER
MISSING DOC By Corky Carroll In November of 2014 the surfing world lost one of it’s most unique and colorful characters in, then 93 year old, Doctor Dorian Paskowitz. Through the years there have been zillions of stories and tales about Dorian and his surfing family, some with a degree of fact and some with whatever “facts” that were needed at the time if it had something to do with putting money in the kitty and food on the picnic table. Dorian was a true surfing vagabond, a gypsy if you will. Even though he had a degree in medicine from Stanford he choose packing his wife and nine children into a used camper van and spending his life surfing and generally avoiding steady work and refusing to subject his kids to any kind of formal education. “Home schooled” to the ninth degree would be putting it lightly. I loved the dude. Let me regress a little bit. I first met Dorian when I was a young kid coming up in the surfing ranks. I think Mickey Munoz introduced him to me at Malibu one day when I was a young teen. Over the years we grew to be good friends and he in fact became my family doctor. When ever I, or my first wife Cheryl or our son Clint, would get sick we would send out smoke signals to alert “Doc” Paskowitz. They hardly ever had a phone. He would pull up in the family camper and the whole crew would come in while whoever was sick was getting tended to. He was a very good doctor. He would never take money as payment from us so I would pay him in used clothes for this kids. I was always one of those clothes hoarders who never would let go of something I liked even if it was in rags. So there was always plenty of stuff to pass along to the Paskowitz kids. For years I would see them around town, this was in the years I was living in San Clemente, wearing my old shirts or pants. He always gave me the best health care and would come over at a moments notice. But my favorite memories of Doc were the afternoons I would spend hanging out with him on the beach at San Onofre Surfing Beach during the 1970’s and 80’s. I was working at SURFER magazine at that time and was also doing a lot of music. My neighbor was a great musician who turned surfer named Chris Darrow. I was helping Chris with his surfing and he was working on my musicianship. Most afternoons we would head to “Sano” to surf and maybe barbeque. Doc was almost always there with is family and we would spend hours chit chatting on the beach about all kinds of things, although mostly surfing. His kids were all good surfers; some of them grew into great surfers. He had a beautiful wife named Juliette who was the ultimate surf family mom. Every one of those kids was really smart and really talented in different ways. With no real schooling it is amazing at how great they all came out in the end. There is some controversy over this that came from some movie done about them, but I knew them through all those years and I can honestly say that they were living a pretty cool, different yes, but cool none the less, life surfing and learning about the world through day in and day out practical experience. Doc wanted them to see life through the eyes of surfers and they did. Is that good or bad? I don’t know, but they are all super good human beings. One of my favorite “Doc” stories was when he was the official Doctor for the San Onofre Nuclear Plant. His job was to be on call in case somebody got hurt working at the plant. He got to hang out on the beach all the time surfing and being with his family. I guess he had a beeper in case they needed him. From what I understand they paid him a really solid amount of money for that. Juliette had an air horn or something to get him out of the water if he was surfing when he got a beep. I thought this was a great gig and one afternoon I mentioned that to him. He reaction surprised me. “I hate it,” he claimed. “Why? Do you get beeped a lot?” I replied. “No, never.” “Then what’s the problem?” “They might beep me. It’s way too much stress and I hate it.” You can see that this dude was a kindred spirit to me. Coming from the Alfred E. Newman school of “What, me worry?” I had to love that about Doc. He eventually bailed on the Nuclear Plant job to get some peace of mind. I am not sure if he ever actually treated anybody or not during the years that he had that gig. So today I was thinking about him, I think a saw a post on Facebook from his daughter or something and it triggered some good memories. He always made me feel like an honorary Paskowitz. |
My sister just sent me this picture. Me on the right...13 years old in 1973 at Leo Carrillo State Beach. My first surfboard. Infinity 6' pintail. Not an easy board to learn on, but I had it for a couple years. Grew to love it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493527319.jpg |
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