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From my slide collection.....
One of me at our inlet riding what would be the first of many Randy Richenberg boards through the 80's. This one was a twin with channels and swallowtail. Very fast! I remember that day and the photographer got a few more of me and quite a few others that beautiful Saturday. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529067591.JPG |
That's a beautiful shot, Baz .. More !!
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Dawn patrol in Ventura....4/3mm wetsuit, 3mm gloves, booties, and hoody. You Florida guys have it made!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529074231.jpg |
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When I go to warm water spots (e.g. Nic and CR), it's such a sense of freedom that I'm happy to sit in the line-up in 1' slop. |
My old friend Charlie send me this picture a couple of weeks ago. Me and a crazy roommate with one of the boards I made back in 1978. Oh, I'm on the right.
Dave http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529075616.jpg |
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Hi Craig,
Santa Ana, somewhere off of McFaddon about a mile from Zeb's boathouse. |
The bug was mine, the van was the crazy roommate.
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Another picture he sent. Laying down some pin lines on a pintail. Good times they were.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529078979.jpg |
Thanks for the comments on my pic, guys. It was nice to find it among all these oldies I have.
My best to all the daddy's here.......enjoy your day.....you've earned it! https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5BA64620 |
I agree, Peter .. These days I'd rather be out in 2' with a couple friends than perfect 6' and a zoo. But since you're in CR often, you should take a trip down to Pavones. It's changed a lot since internet and surf forecasts, but the end section during afternoons can still be had uncrowded.
Some lousy quality pics of Pavones .. From our neighbors porch on the hill: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.JPG The outside take off area: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.jpg Middle section: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.JPG Inside section: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.JPG Robbie Nash had this special TV series where he'd ride the longest waves in the world. Here's 1 minute into a Pavones wave: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.JPG This is 2 minutes into the wave, passing the Cantina, approaching the fishing boat launch beach: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529262419.JPG |
The only water shot of me ever taken (as far as I know).
This is at our inlet.....mid 70's....... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529415123.JPG |
This has been a great page of this thread, thanks guys.
That snappy top turn of Baz got me thinking about how few pics we all have after many years of active surfing. I was at my sister's place in AZ at the time, but started to dig into my memory banks for exceptional moments and great sessions from the past. We all have them to think back on, just so few got recorded. It was funny, looking out at all that desert landscape yet thinking of so many blue green moments. I'm back on Kauai now to visit with my boys for a couple of weeks. The road out to the family place near the end of the road on the north shore is a wreak from that storm a while back. There is a doable single lane now open to resendents only, and only at certain times in convoys. But it's great to be back home, what a magical place. I think Ill have plenty to do while here catching up with yard work and getting the place back together a bit. And hanging with the boys. That left at Pavones looks like it earns its reputation, epic. Nice morning pic of the fun surf of SoCal , Craig. But warm is nicer for sure. Cool flashback with the pintail image Nordwest, that was a prime era for my surfing, had been in Hiwaii long enough to after moving here from Fla, to have gotten in tune with the power and speed here and generally had a good place in most lineups that I surfed all up and down the chain, as I was living on my little engineless sailboat and doing a seasonal migration from the big island to Kauai and back each year, good times! Cheers Richard |
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