Loss of Power: Thoughts on F250, could use some diesel help...

[911boost]

I have done glow plugs on that motor, and a trans. If you did the glow plugs, you can do the transmission. I agree that it where the problem most likely lies.

Bill

[kaisen]

Originally Posted by Groesbeck Hurricane

One more post: I just noticed there is a fluid seepage at the joining of the driveshaft and the rear differential. Glad this is just a 2wd....

Easy $20 fix

Where would one go about getting a transmission? Wonder if I could put it in myself?

Figure out exactly what's wrong with yours first

The fluid has proven to be low, but is it: blackened? stinky? gritty?
If it is just low, but looks/smells/feels good.....

It might be possible to replace the front pump and/or torque converter and not touch the "guts" of the transmission

A 2WD F250? You should be able to remove the rear driveshaft (do the pinion seal then), starter, lower access cover, torque converter to flexplate bolts, electric connections, linkage, bellhousing bolts, crossmember/mounts, move exhaust out of the way, and voila!, lower it to the ground using your floor hoist. Once there, slide it onto a thick padded moving blanket, then "pull" it all out from under the truck. Then put it on a bench and figure it out. An afternoon's job at most.

[kaisen]

BTW, it sounds more like a torque converter failure/starvation than a hard or soft internal transmission issue. When the TC's stators have no fluid to push against they cavitate and everything the power isn't transmitted from the engine to the transmission. Unless the TC locks up (40+ mph, light throttle position and load)

[EarlyPorsche]

Originally Posted by kaisen

BTW, it sounds more like a torque converter failure/starvation than a hard or soft internal transmission issue. When the TC's stators have no fluid to push against they cavitate and everything the power isn't transmitted from the engine to the transmission. Unless the TC locks up (40+ mph, light throttle position and load)

I again agree with this assessment BUT differ in that I wouldn't just repair it if it is just the torque convertor or front pump. The friction material in that transmission is tired after 12 years and 250K of work. I would take this opportunity to buy a quality remanufactured transmission. If you're OK with a wrench you can swap in a new auto.

[speeder]

Any competent transmission shop can do a quality rebuild of that unit and put you back on the road w/ a new TQ included. If you're planning on keeping it for another 250k, bite the bullet and send your trans off on a pallet to BTS in Arkansas for the best rebuild on earth. It'll cost you more but they build 4R100 transmissions that are WAY better than new. It adds tons of resale to the truck because it's considered the single biggest upgrade on these trucks by people in the know. And Powerstroke trucks have a huge following.

I've always wanted to find a decent Superduty PSD w/ a blown auto trans just so I could justify one of their transmissions. They are bullet-proof for towing or increased HP applications and shift better than stock. Of course if your truck is just a beast of burden around the ranch, it might not be worth it.

This place:

Brians Truck Shop

[kaisen]

Originally Posted by EarlyPorsche

I again agree with this assessment BUT differ in that I wouldn't just repair it if it is just the torque convertor or front pump. The friction material in that transmission is tired after 12 years and 250K of work. I would take this opportunity to buy a quality remanufactured transmission. If you're OK with a wrench you can swap in a new auto.

It's all about the benjamins

If you have $2500 burning a hole in your wallet (plus $1000-1500 more for a bulletproof monster like Denis linked), get a good remanufactured transmission

If you don't have the money, and the fluid was clean, do the pump and TC for a fraction (25%) of that.

[tevake]

So it sounds like the trans is the weak link in the F 250. My Brother just got one with a diesel engine for towing his 30' airstream. His has fairly low mileage. are there maintaince suggestions that will help to avoid trans issues? More frequent fluid and filter changes?
Good luck to G H in getting this sorted reasonably.

Cheers Richard

[yetibone]

Yeah, 250K on the original transmission makes that a time bomb. Best to plan for a replacement soon. An E4OD / 4R100 is easy to install.


...but you're lack of power is most likely the lift pump on the left frame rail. This happens very often on the early Super Duties. It will generate enough fuel supply for good fuel delivery before full boost @ 1800, to 2000 RPM, but not enough fuel supply beyond that. There's a way to test supply pressure, if you can get to that little 1/4 square pipe plug on the front of the passenger's side head, and screw a pressure gauge on a hose into there, but it's EXTREMELY difficult to get to.You might also want to take the pick-up unit out of the fuel tank and clean the two strainers too. Those strainers are NLA, so be careful.

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

Between other chores I took off the driver's side valve cover and found that all four glow plugs were fully connected. The fluid in the transmission is pink and does not smell any worse than fluid out of the bottle. Other side off tomorrow and then look into the transmission a bit more.

I'm beginning the think the issue was boiling off transmission fluid. Happened earlier this year and I bet I did it again on that last tow.

[yetibone]

E4ODs' and 4R100Ws' will blow off fluid out of the torque converter seal when extremely overworked, but if you saw no visible loss of fluid, I don't know where it could have gone. Either way, it sounds as though the transmission isn't slipping, and can shift as long as you can get up to a fast enough road speed with such weak engine power.


Oh, yeah,.. the lack of power is most likely fuel starvation from a gimpy lift pump.

[mattdavis11]

Originally Posted by speeder

That truck has a remote Trans cooler in the front, not incorporated into the radiator.

It has an external oil cooler, but an internal trans cooler.

[mattdavis11]

I suspect the fan clutch is shot, and radiator clogged. Unfortunately, those led to larger failures.

[yetibone]

Originally Posted by speeder:
That truck has a remote Trans cooler in the front, not incorporated into the radiator.

It should have one of each, actually. Also, trucks that have had a Ford Service reman transmission installed sometimes have an inline filter between the pump output line, and the primary cooler (the "stand alone cooler", behind the condenser, and in front of the charge cooler). Fluid goes from that to the "in the radiator tank" cooler, then to the line inlet fitting and pressure relief valve on the transmission.



Oh, check the fuel supply pump on the frame. That's prolly what's causing the loss of power.

[speeder]

It's been a few years now since I owned a 7.3. I remember the large trans cooler in grille but not the in-radiator one. My apologies to whomever I was correcting previously.

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

Had to let her sit for some time, borrowed buddies truck. Did some exploratory surgery and found three issues. One of the new glow plugs was not working. One different spark wires had come loose. One vacuum hose had a hole in it. Basically she was trying to run short two cylinders. I,m keeping an eye on the transmission fluid.

Thanks to all, saving for transmission repair in future. Moving two cows today in snow flurries.

[speeder]

Diesels do not have "spark wires". Your engine does have electrical connectors to each injector, but they are inside of valve covers. Is that what you are referring to? There is no vacuum line that would cut-off one, (or more), cylinders. Very confused by your post. Be careful in the bad weather.

[kaisen]

Diesels do not need glow plugs to run. You could disconnect them completely and never know the difference. They are only used at start up, and even then mostly at cold temps.

[speeder]

That too. ^^

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

Originally Posted by speeder

Diesels do not have "spark wires". Your engine does have electrical connectors to each injector, but they are inside of valve covers. Is that what you are referring to? There is no vacuum line that would cut-off one, (or more), cylinders. Very confused by your post. Be careful in the bad weather.

Dennis,

I was searching for the words while giving directions to my wife. Correct, electrical connecter.

Not sure about the glow plug but the plug did not work and truck idled poorly it now runs well. Could not prove if the two were related.

There was a hole in one vacuum hose. Patched and the check engine light went out. I most likely Micked the hose while crawling on top of the motor.

[speeder]

So you removed the valve cover and found a disconnected injector connection? The wiring harness for the injectors is incorporated into the VC gaskets and they are a known failure component when they get old. Not cheap, those VC gaskets/wiring harnesses, but if they go bad you need to change them.

Bad glow plugs will make a diesel hard or impossible to start, (especially in cold weather), and they will idle rough if they do start because they hate to be cold. I sometimes run the GPs twice, (through 2 key cycles), on my diesels on a cold morning even though they will start w/o it just to "help" them get warm + they idle smoother right off the bat.

Eric is correct that GPs have absolutely nothing to do with the running of the motor once it's on, other than the cold idle I've mentioned.