Classic Mustang Resources? - Page 2

onewhippedpuppy · 02-27-2012, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Matt, welcome to the dark side...

I knew that was coming.

911boost · 911boost's Garage

Nice for you to be getting something that has been in family.

Having oned my '66 since 1991, I call tell you that most jobs are pretty simple.

Like others have mentioned, I have used most of the major vedors out there. For stock parts, I like VA Mustang. I have neve really had good experience with NPD, but that may just be me. Since most of the vendors get their stuff from the same place, now I shop around a lot more.

I have a set f the Torque thrust D's in 16x8 on the back of my Mustang, but they are just a bit too wide. I know they only make 16x7's now and they fit a lot better.

Looking forward to seeing the pctures.

Bill

pwd72s · 02-27-2012, 12:06 PM

Here's a long thread you may find interesting...the making of a Bullitt Replica...
My son's future Bullitt - IMBOC

icemann427 · 02-27-2012, 02:59 PM

Matt,

I got most of my restoration parts from these three vendors:

Mustangs Unlimited - Mustang Parts Superstore - FREE shipping!
Mustang Parts from Mustang Depot, Ford Mustang Parts 1965-2013
Tony D. Branda 1965-73 Mustang Parts 1965-70 Shelby Parts & Accessories

All three gave great service and quick and cost effective shipping. Good luck with your new toy! If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

My 65' pictured below. Built original 289; T-5 5 spd; nine inch Ford rear end with Dutchman axles; Caltrac traction bars; Global West frame connectors; 16" Vintage wheels; Autometer gauges; and other goodies.

gt350mike · 02-27-2012, 08:31 PM

I'm not sure if anyone has the in-depth how-to-do like Pelican but the three Iceman listed are the ones I used several years ago when I was putting my car together. I also used JJ's Classic Mustang Parts Inc, Chattanooga, Tennessee just because he's somewhat local to me. At the moment, I have 15x7 Torque Thrust D's but the tire selection isn't the best so I recommend looking into what tires are available for 16x7. You should be able to keep a comfortable ride with the 16's.

You mentioned brakes earlier but I'm not sure if you have drum or disk on the front. Disk brakes (single piston) for your car will be easier on the wallet to freshen-up or convert over than what I'm running (4-piston). Good luck with your project!

johnsjmc · 03-01-2012, 04:42 PM

Before spending any money on a classic Mustang converible. I would have the car towed to a shop and have the unibody carefully examined for rust. The converts seem to be more rust prone than either the coupe or fastback. Torque boxes,inner and outer rocker panels,floors etc can all be pretty mushy even in a southern car. Most converts are still worth repairing even when very rusty . Parts are cheap but the car will need lots of them if it,s been sitting a long time. Have fun.

onewhippedpuppy · 03-01-2012, 05:33 PM

I'll make sure I look into the rust, thanks for the heads up. I remember my grandfather telling me he had rust fixed when he bought it, I think it was rockers and behind the back wheels. Its been garaged since his purchase and only driven on nice days, so I'm hopeful there's not much. Frankly I'll fix it regardless, because of the sentimental value this is one car I'm ok with being upside down on. I think it would be awesome to pass it down to one of my sons some day.

johnsjmc · 03-02-2012, 03:30 AM

1970 southern example shouldn,t be the worst for rust. There were two design problems which caused a great deal of the rust they did have. One was the roof drained into the rocker panel at the rear side window area. Instead of a tube to direct any runnoff. If the rocker drains were clogged with leaves then the " wet mulch" caused rust there.This also happens to the cowl area) and any other area where water was allowed to sit. The second cause had to do with the primitive or non existant sealers and rustproofing of the era. That affected all cars built then but unibodies more than a full frame car can be compromised from a safety standpoint.

onewhippedpuppy · 03-06-2012, 08:19 PM

I've found a 1969 that's the same theme as what I'm considering:

Relatively clean and unadorned, slightly oversized Torq Thrust derivative wheels with modern blackwall tires, sporty suspension with a good stance. There's a baffling array of choices available for all things Mustang, but here's what I'm thinking for mine:

Exterior - retain white top (red exterior). No stripes, no hood scoop, no side scoop. Add Boss style lower front spoiler. 15" or 16" Torq Thrust style wheel (leaning towards gray center D). Shelby style hoop roll bar to enhance safety, stiffen the flexy convertible, and it looks cool.

Suspension - million choices here. Some variety of performance street stiffer front coil and rear leaf, Shelby upper arm mod, 1" front sway bar, replace all old rubber bushings, roller perches, export brace, Monte Carlo bar.

Interior - bone stock. It needs new seat vinyl, a new top, new door panels and arm rests. I think the LH window track also needs repaired. If it doesn't have them I'll be adding 3 point belts.

Engine - exhaust system is shot, so I'll be installing some variety of dual exhaust with an x-pipe and turndown rear tips to keep it subtle. I need to do a compression test to assess the health of the engine, as I believe it to be original and un-rebuilt (still needs lead additive). If healthy I'll be adding a Pertronix electronic ignition, some variety of 4 bbl carb and intake, and maybe some other mild stuff like a cam or headers. I need to research the potential of the motor to determine if I'm wasting my time without a rebuild.

Brakes - after some reading I'm pretty sure it has factory front disc brakes, I remember the little disc logo on the brake pedal. Right now I plan to replace the rubber lines, rebuild the calipers, rebuild the drums, replace the rotors, and replace the pads. Considering how cheap they are I might replace the master cylinder for good measure.

I don't have it yet, so I'm sure there's more. Other obvious stuff is draining all old fluids and refilling, basic tune up, etc. I need to get this pesky 996 out of my garage so I can get started!

911boost · 911boost's Garage

Sounds like a sound plan. Here is a picture of the 16x8 American racing Torque Thrust D's I have on the back of my 1966.

johnsjmc · 03-07-2012, 12:53 PM

Mostly agree with your plan. The chassis in the convertibles is not very stiff even with the factory reinforcing which was done. I would use a 1" front swaybar and the " A arm relocation Shelby drop" along with good shocks and tires. You can,t use much stiffer springs without the body becoming the spring in a convert,but you can benefit from stiffening with an export brace and monte carlo bar.
There is a new style integrated power steering from Borgeson I have added to my 1966. I don,t remember if your 70 is the last year for the old PS system .If it has a slave cylinder and valve hung on the linkage as an afterthought then the Borgeson system is cheaper and better than rebuilding the leaky original system

onewhippedpuppy · 03-07-2012, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Mostly agree with your plan. The chassis in the convertibles is not very stiff even with the factory reinforcing which was done. I would use a 1" front swaybar and the " A arm relocation Shelby drop" along with good shocks and tires. You can,t use much stiffer springs without the body becoming the spring in a convert,but you can benefit from stiffening with an export brace and monte carlo bar.

There is a new style integrated power steering from Borgeson I have added to my 1966. I don,t remember if your 70 is the last year for the old PS system .If it has a slave cylinder and valve hung on the linkage as an afterthought then the Borgeson system is cheaper and better than rebuilding the leaky original system

So would you suggest skipping the stiffer springs? Based on the way these things tend to sit nose high I assumed that 1" lowering springs plus the 0.5" drop from the Shelby mod along with a 1" drop rear leaf would yield a good stance and handling.

johnsjmc · 03-07-2012, 01:22 PM

I restored a GT equipped 66 convert years ago. It came with about 25% stiffer factory springs,7/8 front bar ,quick steering, and disc brakes. It was decent performer for the vintage but not nearly the stiff platform my 1966 fastback is. I would replace the shocks and perished rubber bushings before bothering with the springs unless they are obviously sagged. The Shelby drop is worthwhile as it requires no parts and lowers the front about 1/2 "while improving the camber curve. If the car has a nose high attitude now then your rear leaf springs might be sagged. If you do replace them , just don,t go too stiff with replacements.(stick with 4 leaf springs and GT front coils.) >The convert will have the door gaps opening and closing over bumps as is.

onewhippedpuppy · 03-07-2012, 01:48 PM

Gotcha, thanks. Anything to be gained with the Shelby convertible roll bar or subframe connectors?

johnsjmc · 03-07-2012, 02:03 PM

i,ve no experience with a roll bar but it would be safer in a roll over. I have tried subframe connectors and couldn,t feel much difference in a convert after adding them.
The 66 fastback I have had subframe ties added by a previous owner so I can,t compare it to one without them.

pavulon · 03-07-2012, 03:35 PM

connected connectors would add the most rigidity

intakexhaust · intakexhaust's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

Frankly I'll fix it regardless, because of the sentimental value this is one car I'm ok with being upside down on. I think it would be awesome to pass it down to one of my sons some day.

Now thats what its all about! Cherish it and enjoy - Scot