The home ideas thread

[red-beard]

Originally Posted by Joeaksa

No one has mentioned solar panels. I have electrical panels on the roof now and it puts out 44 kw every day that we do not have clouds and thats about 350 days a year. Except for summer, my average useage is less than 10 kw, so its sold back to the power company to provide $$. Also solar water heater. These two should be built onto every house in the country.

Joe, solar panels are just barely becoming cost effective. And they will work in certain parts of the country, and not in others. The same is true of solar hot water heating.

I am planning to add about 17kW to my roof along with solar hot water preheating. It should produce about 102kWh on average per day.

[Joeaksa]

Jeez you trying to power the whole block? 17 kw will do wonders and you will have power even on cloudy days!

Its cloudy here today and by 9 am I have put out 1.6 kw instead of my usual 2.8 kw this time of day. Am still providing more power than I use but its close!

[lendaddy]

July was crazy hot here, but I used 2200 kWh's for the month. And this is not a big place, no pool, hot tub, pole barn or other such craziness. It's mostly the AC I imagine as my winter bills are 10% of this. Yes we need to cut back

[Seahawk]

Just a few:

- a/c in the garage/workshop.
- Automatic propane powered generator. The small one can power the essentials.
- Outdoor shower. Don't laugh, they are great if done right. Perfect for dogs.
- Central exterior lighting control from the master bedroom. Nice to be able to control illuminating the property.
- Design the baths for when you are older.

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by lendaddy

It's mostly the AC I imagine as my winter bills are 10% of this.

Lendaddy, I just sent you an e-mail through Pelican about the homes I'm currently designing in North Dakota, Wyoming and Michigan.

The large covered porches which allow winter sun in for passive solar heating in the winter, also block out the hot summer sun and help keep the home cooler in the summer.

Cheers, George

[URY914]

Here's a simple one... Install the hose bibbs on the outside walls 36" off the ground. I'm 6'3" and get tired of bending over.

[kaisen]

I designed my own home that was built in late 2003, and later moved into a builder's model home built in late 2007. So here are my thoughts:

2x6 is the norm. It's not just insulation, but also structure and sound. I wouldn't even think of doing 2x4.

The biggest single deviation from normal that we incorporated into the 2003 home was in-floor heating. We did electric cables buried in washed sand under a thicker-than-normal slab surrounded by buried foam insulation panels. This created a massive thermal heat sink under the slab. Our electric company had a reduced rate for off-peak, so it was on its own meter and would heat overnight. It was supplemental, we still had forced HVAC, but it made a HUGE difference in the comfort of the downstairs bedrooms and bathrooms, and cost very little to build (about $1 psf of slab), the electric co paid for the meter and hook ups, and the cost of running it was pennies.

Today, I would also consider PEX buried in-slab that could be zoned through a central manifold and you could run hot water heat either through a indoor or outdoor gas/wood boiler, geothermal, a normal hot water heater, solar, or any combination thereof. Several homes around the Midwest use in-floor hot water heat as the sole heat source and it's very comfy. I'd definitely do the garage too!! And maybe even the front porch/steps (no snow/ice!).

Which brings the next idea: a concrete main/second floor (not just the basement slab). One method involves a normal wood substrate with poured concrete (with flex agents) a couple inches thick over the entire floor, burying PEX for a heated floor. This gives a huge sound deadening effect between floors as well. Another method is to use pre-stressed concrete panels that are set in place. I'm sure it's regional, but we have a couple factories here that will make entire concrete houses panel-by-panel, deliver them to site, and have a crane set them. Basically like poured concrete walls/foundations, but pre-engineered off-site. Anyway, these floors are structurally engineered for the span, reinforced, and have open 'tubes' to run plumbing, wiring, ducting, and other mechanical. Because of their strength they require no center supports so you can clear-span large areas beneath (basement).

They also use this for garages! So if you are doing a rambler with bedrooms below I assume you're doing a walk-out or look-out for legal bedroom egress. If so, you usually have to build-up under/around the rear of the garage. I would do a tuck-under garage back there, basically continuing the two-story to the first couple bays of the garage. People do that here, and store their lawnmower, seasonal toys (PWC, snowmobiles, etc) and pool toys/seasonal furniture down there. Or make a hobby shop/woodshop, or whatever. Then the outermost bay (3rd or fourth stall) could be traditional slab-on-grade so you can do a hoist/lift or heavy (like RV) there.

If you don't do a concrete floor, at the very least do engineered trusses. Again, for longer spans and hidden mechanical (no drop-downs). We did that and it was rock-solid. No flex, couldn't hear walking/stomping upstairs. We even did a few extra trusses in high-stress areas like under the kitchen (commercial range? granite slabs? -- they're heavy) and under the master bath (a filled two-person jacuzzi weighs a lot!). It was cheap.

We also did 9 ft ceilings in the basement (and upstairs too, but that's more common). Didn't cost much. But man did it feel bigger! Didn't feel like a basement at all. Probably the second best deviation we planned.

We built the master suite with doubled-up wall construction. I'm not sure of the correct term. But I had staggered 2x4 studs so that the inner wall shared no studs with the outer wall. Acoustically de-coupled. Then we stuffed the crap out of them with standard fiberglass insulation (not sure that helped but felt like it did). I also designed that the master bedroom didn't share an interior wall with any part of the house. It was buffered by walk-in closets. If you were in the other parts of the house, you couldn't hear anything from the master bedroom -- period.

The 2008 home had a bonus-room over the garage. I would do that again in a heartbeat. Since you're going to heat and insulate your garage --right?-- then the costs off adding serious square footage there is very minimal. I had a 16x24 room up there over a barely-oversize three car garage. The tougher part was heating and cooling it. It was a long run (24ft) by the time it terminated at the outer windows. I'm sure they could have engineered it better. Again, it's a no brainer.

Other little things:

I did central vac. Do the toe-kick dustpans under bathroom and kitchen cabinets where there is tile -- it's awesome. Also, consider buying a second head/hose for downstairs so you're not lugging it. And if you have hardwood, get a hose sock. Central vac rules.

Wire a total alarm system before the house is sheetrocked in. Hard wire to each and every window and door. Wireless is the norm nowadays, but they don't work as well and they're not as foolproof. The only reason they're the norm is because they're easier to retrofit.

Tile/stone everything that might be vinyl. Or at least engineer the floors to accept tile/stone. Vinyl flooring sucks.

The 2008 house had outlets under the soffits every 20 feet for Christmas lights. They had a wall switch and a GFI breaker. Made it much easier, if you're into that sort of thing.

Consider running wiring for home theater and/or whole-house sound. Or at least the routes/pulls so you can pull later. For sure plan a spot for a wall-mounted flat-screen TV and hide power/cable/HDMI/etc behind it so there are no wires when hung.

Run both hot and cold water 'outdoor' spigot to the garage to was cars/feet/etc

Do as many built-ins as you can. I had a custom cabinet maker build just about everything I wanted for storage, home theater, kitchen, bath, pantry, hobby, and linen closets for about the same cost as halfway decent furniture. If I recall correctly it was $12 per inch of width for either over or under, or a full linen closet face.

Consider door-jamb light switches for the pantry, laundry, and utility/mechanical rooms. Door open = light on, closed = off.

Lots of recessed lighting. Ceiling fans. More outlets than normal/code. Think it through. I even planned wiring and outlets to be inside kitchen cabinets rather than backsplash for things like the kitchen phone/computer/cell phone chargers and routed a desk-grommet through the countertop. Much cleaner.

Run both gas and 220V to your kitchen (range) and laundry (dryer). You or the next buyer may change your preference. Cheap to do it now. Expensive later. Also run 220V to the garage and to the back patio where there may be a hot tub.

Build your garage like it was just another room. Sheetrock, finishes, mouldings, lighting, insulaton, outlets..... way cheaper to bid it when it's built. Run TV cable too. And sound.

If you don't do a full alarm, add a simple open/closed circuit sensor for when the overhead garage door is open or closed and wire it to a little LED light in your nightstand. If it's on, the garage is open. Have another wireless transmitter in your nightstand to be able to close it without getting dressed and walking out there.

Wire the main panels to be generator friendly. That way you can either add a permanent back-up generator or hook-up a little one when the power goes out. Cheaper than losing a fridge full of food, or a freezer full of meat.

Do a direct-vent furnace and hot water heater(s). One less thing sticking through the roof, and they're higher efficiency. Do a heat-capture air exchanger too, although it might be code there.

Consider a cantilever deck by extending the house's floor trusses. They'd have to be treated, but the expense would still be less than an add-on structure and the end result would be stronger and better looking.

Consider all of your outdoor landscaping and electrical needs when planning the house, even if they come much later. Doing a conduit and trench for wiring or plumbing is way easier before driveways and sod. Example, having a light at the end of the driveway operated by a switch in the house.


I'll add more as I think of them, if you care

[schamp]

Spray foam, 2x6 walls and geothermal heat and a/c. I got talked out of 2x6 walls and have regretted it ever since. Spray foam over the ceilings and under the roof decking. You may have to wait until after your CO to foam under the roof decking cause they will try and tax you on heated and cooled, insulated space. The one thing that is guaranteed to go up is your utility cost. My geothermal a/c units heat the water in the heaters. Maybe I should say pre heat. But in the summer I can turn the breakers off on the water heaters. I build mine with 2 foot over hangs on the eves. Wish it was three.

[masraum]

Pocket doors. I could really use them in my current house, especially in the bathrooms. If you're designing your own house they probably wouldn't be as necessary, but it's nice to not have to worry about a door being in the way.

[URY914]

A urinal in the bathroom.

[look 171]

Toe kick night nights on a dinner for the perfect amount of light. Banging your little toe into a table leg is a real b!tch in the middle of the night on your way to have a cup of water. The new LEDs are real nice and slim and wire it up to a switch on your way to your bedroom. I have always put em' in the kitchen and the baths. Much better looking then the 99 cent night night plug ins. We use to use rope light under there hooked up to a dimmer. dimmer is your friend here.

Second sink and a pot filler in the kitchen if you can.

[herr_oberst]

Security cams. Garage, front door, back door.

In-wall wiring for the entertainment, (decent quality wire for 7 channels, 8 if you think 2 subwoofers are better than one and at least one conditioned circuit for your expensive electronics)

Generator

[john70t]

I'm getting into berm houses.
The basement is always the coolest place in the summer, and the warmest in the winter.
Below the frost line(~4ft) is a constant 50deg.
I thank my previous owner who installed 3" foam board around the block perimeter.

Radon is always a problem. Concrete is porous, and foundations should have a wrap(or two) before being poured.

Roof overhangs and aggressive grading keeps the water away from the house.
Downspouts can lead to a fish pond downhill or a reservoir.

[john70t]

Another nice feature is interior water control.
If a pipe bursts anywhere, it should automatically flow to a drain and be pumped away.
Nice when you're on vacation.
There are also smart water main shut-offs.

Another feature is square walls. If building with wood, inset 1x8 to the outside of studs on a triangle, and the house stays square.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by kaisen

I designed my own home that was built in late 2003, and later moved into a builder's model home built in late 2007. So here are my thoughts:

2x6 is the norm. It's not just insulation, but also structure and sound. I wouldn't even think of doing 2x4.

The biggest single deviation from normal that we incorporated into the 2003 home was in-floor heating. We did electric cables buried in washed sand under a thicker-than-normal slab surrounded by buried foam insulation panels. This created a massive thermal heat sink under the slab. Our electric company had a reduced rate for off-peak, so it was on its own meter and would heat overnight. It was supplemental, we still had forced HVAC, but it made a HUGE difference in the comfort of the downstairs bedrooms and bathrooms, and cost very little to build (about $1 psf of slab), the electric co paid for the meter and hook ups, and the cost of running it was pennies.

Today, I would also consider PEX buried in-slab that could be zoned through a central manifold and you could run hot water heat either through a indoor or outdoor gas/wood boiler, geothermal, a normal hot water heater, solar, or any combination thereof. Several homes around the Midwest use in-floor hot water heat as the sole heat source and it's very comfy. I'd definitely do the garage too!! And maybe even the front porch/steps (no snow/ice!).

Which brings the next idea: a concrete main/second floor (not just the basement slab). One method involves a normal wood substrate with poured concrete (with flex agents) a couple inches thick over the entire floor, burying PEX for a heated floor. This gives a huge sound deadening effect between floors as well. Another method is to use pre-stressed concrete panels that are set in place. I'm sure it's regional, but we have a couple factories here that will make entire concrete houses panel-by-panel, deliver them to site, and have a crane set them. Basically like poured concrete walls/foundations, but pre-engineered off-site. Anyway, these floors are structurally engineered for the span, reinforced, and have open 'tubes' to run plumbing, wiring, ducting, and other mechanical. Because of their strength they require no center supports so you can clear-span large areas beneath (basement).

They also use this for garages! So if you are doing a rambler with bedrooms below I assume you're doing a walk-out or look-out for legal bedroom egress. If so, you usually have to build-up under/around the rear of the garage. I would do a tuck-under garage back there, basically continuing the two-story to the first couple bays of the garage. People do that here, and store their lawnmower, seasonal toys (PWC, snowmobiles, etc) and pool toys/seasonal furniture down there. Or make a hobby shop/woodshop, or whatever. Then the outermost bay (3rd or fourth stall) could be traditional slab-on-grade so you can do a hoist/lift or heavy (like RV) there.

If you don't do a concrete floor, at the very least do engineered trusses. Again, for longer spans and hidden mechanical (no drop-downs). We did that and it was rock-solid. No flex, couldn't hear walking/stomping upstairs. We even did a few extra trusses in high-stress areas like under the kitchen (commercial range? granite slabs? -- they're heavy) and under the master bath (a filled two-person jacuzzi weighs a lot!). It was cheap.

We also did 9 ft ceilings in the basement (and upstairs too, but that's more common). Didn't cost much. But man did it feel bigger! Didn't feel like a basement at all. Probably the second best deviation we planned.

We built the master suite with doubled-up wall construction. I'm not sure of the correct term. But I had staggered 2x4 studs so that the inner wall shared no studs with the outer wall. Acoustically de-coupled. Then we stuffed the crap out of them with standard fiberglass insulation (not sure that helped but felt like it did). I also designed that the master bedroom didn't share an interior wall with any part of the house. It was buffered by walk-in closets. If you were in the other parts of the house, you couldn't hear anything from the master bedroom -- period.

The 2008 home had a bonus-room over the garage. I would do that again in a heartbeat. Since you're going to heat and insulate your garage --right?-- then the costs off adding serious square footage there is very minimal. I had a 16x24 room up there over a barely-oversize three car garage. The tougher part was heating and cooling it. It was a long run (24ft) by the time it terminated at the outer windows. I'm sure they could have engineered it better. Again, it's a no brainer.

Other little things:

I did central vac. Do the toe-kick dustpans under bathroom and kitchen cabinets where there is tile -- it's awesome. Also, consider buying a second head/hose for downstairs so you're not lugging it. And if you have hardwood, get a hose sock. Central vac rules.

Wire a total alarm system before the house is sheetrocked in. Hard wire to each and every window and door. Wireless is the norm nowadays, but they don't work as well and they're not as foolproof. The only reason they're the norm is because they're easier to retrofit.

Tile/stone everything that might be vinyl. Or at least engineer the floors to accept tile/stone. Vinyl flooring sucks.

The 2008 house had outlets under the soffits every 20 feet for Christmas lights. They had a wall switch and a GFI breaker. Made it much easier, if you're into that sort of thing.

Consider running wiring for home theater and/or whole-house sound. Or at least the routes/pulls so you can pull later. For sure plan a spot for a wall-mounted flat-screen TV and hide power/cable/HDMI/etc behind it so there are no wires when hung.

Run both hot and cold water 'outdoor' spigot to the garage to was cars/feet/etc

Do as many built-ins as you can. I had a custom cabinet maker build just about everything I wanted for storage, home theater, kitchen, bath, pantry, hobby, and linen closets for about the same cost as halfway decent furniture. If I recall correctly it was $12 per inch of width for either over or under, or a full linen closet face.

Consider door-jamb light switches for the pantry, laundry, and utility/mechanical rooms. Door open = light on, closed = off.

Lots of recessed lighting. Ceiling fans. More outlets than normal/code. Think it through. I even planned wiring and outlets to be inside kitchen cabinets rather than backsplash for things like the kitchen phone/computer/cell phone chargers and routed a desk-grommet through the countertop. Much cleaner.

Run both gas and 220V to your kitchen (range) and laundry (dryer). You or the next buyer may change your preference. Cheap to do it now. Expensive later. Also run 220V to the garage and to the back patio where there may be a hot tub.

Build your garage like it was just another room. Sheetrock, finishes, mouldings, lighting, insulaton, outlets..... way cheaper to bid it when it's built. Run TV cable too. And sound.

If you don't do a full alarm, add a simple open/closed circuit sensor for when the overhead garage door is open or closed and wire it to a little LED light in your nightstand. If it's on, the garage is open. Have another wireless transmitter in your nightstand to be able to close it without getting dressed and walking out there.

Wire the main panels to be generator friendly. That way you can either add a permanent back-up generator or hook-up a little one when the power goes out. Cheaper than losing a fridge full of food, or a freezer full of meat.

Do a direct-vent furnace and hot water heater(s). One less thing sticking through the roof, and they're higher efficiency. Do a heat-capture air exchanger too, although it might be code there.

Consider a cantilever deck by extending the house's floor trusses. They'd have to be treated, but the expense would still be less than an add-on structure and the end result would be stronger and better looking.

Consider all of your outdoor landscaping and electrical needs when planning the house, even if they come much later. Doing a conduit and trench for wiring or plumbing is way easier before driveways and sod. Example, having a light at the end of the driveway operated by a switch in the house.


I'll add more as I think of them, if you care

Wow...excellent stuff, thx for taking the time. Gotta soak all this in.

[Jim Bremner]

Joanna my wife lives with MS. That means that she falls in the hiuse 6-8 times a year. We rented a house while the new home was being remodeled. Joanna fell in the bathroom reached out and grabbed the towel rod! 2 lagre holes in the sheet rock and down she went. I bought sturdier towel rods and EVERYWHERE that a tp holder or towel rod might be mounted is backed up with 2x6 under the sheet rock.

There's new garage door openers where the motor is off to one side. I'll buy that once the 1960's one thaty I have fails.

I have a SS 48" range. the ss panel in front of the burner keeps getting scratched. I want to have a matching panel cover made out of the same stone that my countertops are made of.

I use my pot filler 3x a week.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Rich Lambert

Try this site- Houzz - Home Design, Decorating and Remodeling Ideas and Inspiration, Kitchen and Bathroom Design.

Be prepared to spend many hours there. Sign up for their newsletter too.

Right there on the photo of the Eichler home.......a New Zealand Flax Plant! I would kill to get my hands on some of those here in Florida! It's a staple in the west coast landscape trade. I love this site already! Thanks Rich!

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Jim Bremner

Line up the roof and the hallways so that if you add on that you don't screw up rooflines and hallways.

I can't add on to my garage with out screwing up my roof line. to make it worse my roof is tyle. that has been discontinued. $40k worth of roof would need to be replaced to add on!

They have 14 pallets left of my roof tile. I might need to buy some to store.
I have some home plans books if I didn;t toss them. I was going to build but I couldn't find a lot in the area. pm me your address and I'll toss them in the mail

California now reguires fire sprinklers and non wood burning fireplaces for new construction!

Wow Jim - your Juniperus "Procumbens nana" has really taken over! I love that plant. I think some of those New Zealand Flax Plants would look good to break things up a bit. Is that Star Jasmine at the bottom of the pic?

[Baz]

There's a lot of excellent input here so here's a contribution I have....

I am so grateful my garage faces NORTH - so it's shaded in the front of it where I like to work on stuff.

I'm in Florida where shade does matter!

I've been to other folk's homes where the sun beats down into their garage and it's literally hell to work in.

Your situation in Michigan may require a different tack but either way orientation of the house (and garage) is very important.

And don't forget to plan for trees for shade!

[Jim Bremner]

Lendaddy,

Sorry tossed the books (I hate books, just kidding.)


Baz, got pics of flaxseed? Yes, the Juniper is part of the original landscaping done in 1963

The prior owners spent close to $2,100 landscaping the grounds.

I'm far from a green thumb. I want to keep the look of the place pretty much as is and what does come in needs to be simple to take care of and water.

Our house sits on a hill in SoulCal about 10 miles from the coast. temps are pretty mild but our town has pretty high water cost.

Our former home had about as much greenery and a pool Our water bill ran $120 a month. Fullerton is charging us around $200!

The bill prior to us moving in was $375 due to a faulty sprinker valve.