Simple woodworking question - Page 2

wdfifteen · wdfifteen's Garage

Take it to a cabinetry shop and have them run it through their joiner.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 05:39 PM

OK, I'm convinced, I've got one roller, but Ill get another so I have one for the feed side and one for the outfeed side. I've got a decent blade, so I think I can stick with that. this will be cheaper than getting a cheap hand planer, and will probably get used more since I have a 12" compund miter.

I'd love to have a planer and jointer and all of the other nice tools of woodworking, but I don't do that much woodwork, and more importantly, I don't have the space to keep it.

Thanks all for all of you suggestions and help.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reg

The hand plane is like a mini jointer. You just have to take more time and use your eyes more.

Yep, I enjoy using them from time to time. It feels like you are a part of the work. It's somehow more satisfying than using a power tool to get it done fast, but that's probably because I've never needed it for a job or for a lot of work.

Quote:

Why not just buy a 2 x 12 plus a 2 x 2 and rip the 2 x 12 into three (reversing the grains) and laminate them all together, and cut down to size? It's what we'd do.

huh? I would have loved to just use a 2x12, that's what I've essentially made. I'm not getting the rip and reassemble part. Probably not that important anyway since the other stuff is bought and glued.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatotom

a good straight edge guide like a bessimer.

I've heard about and looked at those fences before. I'd love to have one, but in the case of my saw, I think it would be like putting a $5k suspension under a civic, you could, and it would handle better, but why. I hope to someday have a place with enough room for a shop, and when I do, I will porbably outfit it with a bunch of good gear.

herr_oberst · 06-10-2013, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

Y
huh? I would have loved to just use a 2x12, that's what I've essentially made. I'm not getting the rip and reassemble part. Probably not that important anyway since the other stuff is bought and glued.

It won't warp if you cut it apart and glue it back together with the grain reversed, and the glue joint will be the strongest part of the plank. You're doing the same thing.

look 171 · 06-10-2013, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

I've heard about and looked at those fences before. I'd love to have one, but in the case of my saw, I think it would be like putting a $5k suspension under a civic, you could, and it would handle better, but why. I hope to someday have a place with enough room for a shop, and when I do, I will porbably outfit it with a bunch of good gear.

Steve, the most important part of a table saw is the fence, then the blade and table flatness. A blade stabilizer will help a poor blade perform.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

It won't warp if you cut it apart and glue it back together with the grain reversed, and the glue joint will be the strongest part of the plank. You're doing the same thing.

Ah, got it. I suspect this may have been a bit warped when I bought it. I usually go through about 1.5-2x as many boards as I buy trying to find straight boards in good shape, but I must have gotten some 8' boards that were just close.

look 171 · 06-10-2013, 07:55 PM

If you really want to play, get a Jack plane and a smooth plane to do the finishing work. After you are done with it, no sanding is needed. Plus, sanding is never require before edge glue up. I don't think I have used either plane in a very long time. There is a great and satisfying feeling in using a hand plane, spoke shave or a cabinet scraper. Thank goodness for power tools.

Steve you can true up the edge of that board on your table saw without issues. A straight edge that run the length of the board (rip up pieces of plywood) is needed. Nail the plywood right on top of the piece you need to cut. nail a long length (4') of straight board on edge to the face of another board 4" wide (a T). Clamp the base or the flat section to the fence and have the edge of the straight board sitting right on top of the blade. Bring your straight edge that you clamped to the fence and dial it in so it sits flat / flush to the side of the blade (I line it up using a try square) making sure you have at least 1 3/4" space for your stock to run through. Rub your straight board that you nailed to the stock against the straight section of the piece above the blade. YOu will produce an exactly flat and straight cut every time. I have true up many boards like that in my early cabinet making career out of a little garage workshop.

look 171 · 06-10-2013, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

Ah, got it. I suspect this may have been a bit warped when I bought it. I usually go through about 1.5-2x as many boards as I buy trying to find straight boards in good shape, but I must have gotten some 8' boards that were just close.

Try to buy boards from places that supply cabinet makers instead of places like HOme Depot. The HD stuff isn't always dry. You can ask for Surfaced two sides and usually have one straight edge already done (S2S, straight line).

masraum · 06-10-2013, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Steve, the most important part of a table saw is the fence, then the blade and table flatness. A blade stabilizer will help a poor blade perform.

I've got a decent blade. This is the saw that I have (or very close to it). The fence is crap, at least, that's how it seems to me. I'd love to get something better, but most of the fences that I've seen in the past cost more than I paid for the saw when new.

I am a bit tempted to try something else. Looking around I found what looked like a better option called a Shop Fox Fence that is $160 without rails and about another $100 with rails (more $$ at the above link). I'm not sure if I would need rails or not. I'm not sure if my saw has standard rails, and it would be nice to be able to get slightly longer rails so I could cut wider stock.

I also found a couple of vega fences that sound good, that come with rails that range from $250-350 which is about what I paid for the saw. It seems crazy to put that nice a fence on the saw, but if it helps that much (which I think it might). And I suppose if I ever get a better saw, I could always swap the fence out.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 08:11 PM

I really enjoy woodworking. My dad was always a gearhead. He worked on cars and taught me, but he hated working with wood. His father hated working on cars, but enjoyed working on wood. Unfortunately, I never got to spend enough time with my grandfather when I was older for him to teach me anything so I end up learning the hard way (needing extra wood since I invariably screw some up). Thank goodness for books and the Internet and you folks here.

look 171 · 06-10-2013, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

I've got a decent blade. This is the saw that I have (or very close to it). The fence is crap, at least, that's how it seems to me. I'd love to get something better, but most of the fences that I've seen in the past cost more than I paid for the saw when new.

I am a bit tempted to try something else. Looking around I found what looked like a better option called a Shop Fox Fence that is $160 without rails and about another $100 with rails (more $$ at the above link). I'm not sure if I would need rails or not. I'm not sure if my saw has standard rails, and it would be nice to be able to get slightly longer rails so I could cut wider stock.

I also found a couple of vega fences that sound good, that come with rails that range from $250-350 which is about what I paid for the saw. It seems crazy to put that nice a fence on the saw, but if it helps that much (which I think it might). And I suppose if I ever get a better saw, I could always swap the fence out.

A very specific front rail is needed. they all clamp onto the front rail only with nothing in the back. They are that strong. those little portable saws are too small to do much. that's not to say they are no good, but extension tables are needed on all three sides. Vega's are good fence. it all depends on how much do you have or want to tie up in the garage?

I am not sure if those fences can be fitted to the Ryobi saw.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

a good jointer plane works great and is a learning experience

longer the better

look 171 · 06-10-2013, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Brown

a good jointer plane works great and is a learning experience

longer the better

Learn to use a jack plane before that monster. but a cheap jointer for 350 bucks. It run circles around the Jointer plane. A good jointer plane runs you 150 plus, maybe more? There are so many way to get around that clumsy thing. I love using real fine hand tools, only when I have all day to cut one board and have nothing to do for the next 36 hours. One day I will get back to it. I still use a hand scraper when I actually do work in the shop or in the field.

masraum · 06-10-2013, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

those little portable saws are too small to do much. that's not to say they are no good, but extension tables are needed on all three sides.

Absolutely. I've gotten a lot of use out of it, but it's a real pain because it's so small, and I invariably end up working with large pieces at some point.

Quote:

I am not sure if those fences can be fitted to the Ryobi saw.

That's what I've always suspected.

look 171 · 06-11-2013, 04:53 AM

I think the fence on that saw is fine. An longer length of the front rail is needed. They can be purchased for that saw. Build a table around it so tha saw sits in a hole (flush with the table top) making this a much larger saw. it is much safer to work with a larger table then a smaller one. capable of doing much more this way by not spending too much money.

Reg · 06-11-2013, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Try to buy boards from places that supply cabinet makers instead of places like HOme Depot. The HD stuff isn't always dry. You can ask for Surfaced two sides and usually have one straight edge already done (S2S, straight line).

^^^^^^
We usually do it for no extra charge, so long as the customer isn't too fussy going through 500' to buy 50'

Be careful on the saw folks. The little pieces are the ones which can catch you. A smart man can be stupid just for a second.

look 171 · 06-11-2013, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reg

^^^^^^
We usually do it for no extra charge, so long as the customer isn't too fussy going through 500' to buy 50'

Be careful on the saw folks. The little pieces are the ones which can catch you. A smart man can be stupid just for a second.

...and do not pull the stock from the back of saw. it is easy and natural to do with one of those little things because of the small table. Naturally, the operator reaches around and support the work piece and pull from the other side. Lots of guys cut themselves that way.