I really would like to ride in that one day!

Very nice!

Wow, sweet project! Thanks for keeping us updated on the beautiful work.

Hey cool, I have that same slot car in my Thunderjet racing set. It's the 4 lane Sterling Moss raceway from the mid 60s, by Aurora.

Wow. Gorgeous. What's the plan for wheels? If it were mine, I'd look into a set of Wilhoit's aluminum replica steelies. But they'd probably be more expensive than a set of steelies with aluminum outer rims.

It was a car day here in south Texas. The 904 showed up and looks significantly better in person. Love the blue!

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My new DD also showed up today. I bought my wife a MB E350 two years ago and she kept driving my 2008 ML63 and decided she didn't like her car any more. A few months ago, she made me a deal. I could get a new car if I gave her my car and I could trade in her E350 on what ever I wanted. Well, this showed up today:

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Hey Mark, love this beautifull machine and watching it come together.
The color is really sharp.
I've just got to step out of the spectator gallery to ask if you are going to have working AC in the car . I know that's a bit out in left field for this sort of car, but you do live in Tx. I understand the originals were quite hot to drive.
And AC would extend your driving season hugely.

What are your driving aspirations with the car?

Thanks for documenting the build so well for us to enjoy!

Cheers Richard

So it's done? How does it drive? And I think you left us hanging on engine porn....

BTW, nice AMG.

No engine, yet. Still sitting in pieces in the garage. I have a 78 3.0, 98mm P&Cs (10.5:1), DC cams, twin plug big port heads, and twin plug dizzy. Just need to put it all together. If I'm lucky, it will be ready by the hottest month of the year in Texas! Unfortunately, no a/c, at least yet. I do have a 915 with the ring gear flipped.

One other interesting fact. I actually fit in this car! I'm 6'4" and 220. My GT 40 was really tight even with the modified pedal and seat geometry. Climbing over the fuel tank and shifter was particularly difficult. My FF Daytona Coupe was better, but tight. The 904 has the seat lowered and pushed back with the pedals as far forward as possible. All are like puting on a cheap suit, but this one is not too bad. Just no video of me climbing out!

Killer! Looking forward to seeing some videos! Congrats!

Remember this hard and fast, but brilliant rule for any build like this: the fire extinguisher goes in before the engine does.

Think about it. :)

I'd think one of these hiding above the engine would be a good idea...

Amazon.com: BLAZECUT Automatic Fire Suppression System, Automotive Extinguisher: Automotive

Always! Good tip.

I have been seriously thinking about one of these and have some questions, if you don't mind.

Did it really take 14 months to build? How long between when you placed the order and the build started? Are you happy with the fit & finish? Would you do it again?

Love the blue!

My next project (after I finish my current pro-tour / rat rod) is this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432844874.jpg

'69 Caddy with Miller-Meteor conversion - all original but somewhat a little rough 'round the edges. Plans are angled top chop with Durmax power.............

Needs one of those wood, 917 shift knobs...

Rich,

When I was discussing the build with Carey, he said 6 months. Then Chuck Beck's son came up to implement some upgrades and it ended up taking almost 14 months. However, I waited 18 month for my Kirkham cobra. Of course it came from Poland.

The build started immediately after order. There was one vehicle ahead of mine. First they welded up the chassis, then bonded it to the body as it was laid up in the mold. That was fairly quick. Paint shop and final build is where all the time went. The fit and finish is perfect and it is what Beck is known for. I'm very happy with the body and gaps. There are two minor opportunities on the interior, but they are minor. I would definitely do it again, but this is the seventh reproduction I've owned and one of the best.

AG, I like your style!

Finally got a few hours to lift the engine onto the stand. It's a 3.0 from a 78. Had a rebuild several years ago, so I'm hoping the bottom end is solid.

Took about four hours of degreasing and scrubbing to get it fairly clean.

Good enough to start disassembling it. Standard 3.2ss build. I have large port twin plug heads, DC100 cams, and 3.2 cylinders bored to 98mm and plated. The P&Cs, heads, and cams from this engine will be for sale soon.

Question: who can I send the engine mounted oil cooler to for cleaning and testing?

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You are a brave man rolling that around on the grass!

Pacific is generally regarded as the go-to place for cooler cleaning and repair.

Pacific Oil Cooler Service, Inc. - Home

Thanks, Shaun, I'll give them a call this week. I'm in Texas where at the end of the summer the grass is as hard as the asphalt. The water even runs off the ground like the driveway. No engine spills yet!

Cool project. If it was mine I'd probably chop the top and make rear windows to go for a wagon conversion, but I'm kind of weird and think those are cool.

..a pedal car.

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Keep your bent rods and twisted levers - this one has sprockets and a CHAIN mister! No pinching or blood blisters with this one - here, your three-year-old legs get devoured by a slow moving chainsaw!

After some light sanding and metal treatment:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441647899.jpg


(*Actually the chain/sprockets are covered with a metal chain guard.)

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Got the engine broken down today. This engine ran strong and was rebuilt 40k miles ago. I am going to change the rods, so I'll get a peek at the rod bearings. I'm hoping the case does not need to be split. All the head studs were intact, even the lower divlar studs. I am replacing them, so I guess there is still time for drama!

The cams with rockers, heads, and p&c's will all be available for sale soon at low prices.

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Wow, I got really lucky or someone else felt the pain. The studs came right out using the double nut method. The exhaust side divlars were actually easier than the upper steel, but neither required heat. Next weekend I'll check the rod bearings and replace the rods if they are fine. Of course I also discovered that my new cams are the later style with the bolt, while my 78 3.0 uses the large nut. One more tool to buy...

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Cleaned up the rest of the engine and installed the Pauter rods. Bearings looked great which reinforced my decision not to split the case.

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Tomorrow I'm hoping to get p&c's and heads installed. I might try to push for cam towers, but could be a stretch. Btw, the ultrasonic cleaner is amazing! Removed all the sludge from the cam towers, chain Boxes, and tin. I shot some solvent through the squirters and blew everything out with air and it looks great so far!

Made a tool for chasing head stud threads. Cost less than $1 and took five minutes to make. Got all the head studs installed. Supertech says length doesn't matter (heh, heh) and they should screw in all the way with little interference, then back out 1/4 turn using blue loctite. They did and ended up consistently 5 7/16" in length.

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Also, mocked up my EBS bored (98mm) and plated cylinders and large port twin plug heads. All looks good so far! Installation will start after lunch.

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Any thoughts on torquing heads first, then cam tower or finger tight heads, torque cam towers, then torque heads to spec? I've heard pros/cons on both?

Farging, bastage, wire locks from hades!

My god, those piston pin locks are evil!

Made an exciting job a real pain in the arse. I have cuts, blistered finger, and a foul mood, but I also have p&c's and heads installed. Took me the entire day. I figured once deck height was checked, I'd be good, but no. Anyway, time for alcohol and I'll install the cam towers next weekend and figure out how to time the cams. Should be fun!

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Great work, looks fantastic!

How the heck do you change rods without splitting the case?

Carefully. It's easy to remove the nuts and the rods. To install new pauter rods that use a bolt, slip the cap into place and slightly rotate the crank. Insert one bolt in the rod and while you hold the rod in place, turn the bolt until it catches the cap. Then insert the other bolt and torque to spec. Easy.

Got the cams installed and timed. Installing the rest of the rockers now and adjusting the valves. Should be buttoned up today. BTW, overlap on a DC80 104 is 5.6. I critical piece of information if you want to do it right! Here are some pics:

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Kafer dial indicator.
They make some nice stuff.
Nice to see it come together. Still going to try to get a ride in that rig....

Installed the rest of the rockers, adjusted the valves and bolted on some fancy valve covers. Hmm, not sure I like the fancy valve covers. We'll see as the rest of the engine comes together.

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There have been extensive discussions on this in the Rennlist 993 forum, and it strikes me me (a non - wrencher) as quite a complex procedure.

Actually, once you figure it out and have the right tools, it makes perfect sense and is easy just a little time consuming.

I finished buttoning up the engine, gapped and installed the spark plugs (after doing this on a 911 I'd forgotten how easy it is when you have access), and stuck the distributor in (only open holes now are intake, exhaust, and oil in/out).

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I was installing the 3B plug and ran into this:

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Interesting that it was cast closed. Anyway, 5 minutes with a sharp hacksaw and I was good to go:


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Ya know, if you put this on the hood it'd look kinda like a Smokey and the bandit car.
On second thought, dumb idea. Never mind. :D



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BTW love the car, awesome taste.

A screaming chicken. I like how you think!

Started working on the shroud.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445720028.jpg

Nice Mark! In the next couple of weeks i will drive mine out finally. Let me know if you need a hand


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Great build.
Thanks for letting us in on the goodness (and the frustration from time to time.
Best
Les