OEM Crate/Aftermarket Crate/Rebuilt GM 5.7 V8 for a K1500 4x4

[bugstrider]

To the Forum Motörhead Brain Trust:

Doing some research on the best path to my aging 5.7 Ltr GMC V8 in our 95 K1500 with 317K all original. In looking at different options, I see I have three possibilities. I have some time so this is a fact finding mission. Prices seem to range from $1700-2700 for a standard 5.7. Sky is the limit beyond that for those not living in CA needing to smog.

1: OEM GM Crate
2: Rebuild what I have
3: Crate motor(Summit/Jegs/Westcoastmotors)
Some have a few upgrades over OEM such as roller lifters etc. Since I am in CA and have to smog, I'm not looking at a high performance motor but willing to get a few extra ponies over stock.

For those that have done something along these lines, what has your experience been and in peering into your 20/20 crystal ball, what would you have done differently?

Thoughts welcome:

Cheers

Since I can't justify the cost of a quad-cab Duramax 3/4-1 ton, I must fix whats I gots.

[rusnak]

I bought my commercial 7.4L Chevy C3500 from a landscape contractor, who really took great care of it.

It had a crate 7.4L motor in it, but when the shop did the work, they could not re-connect several harnesses, so it lost the use of anti-lock brakes and cruise control. It's not like it goes on the freeway that much, so I don't really care. But the anti-lock brakes would be useful.

I would want a direct fit 100% compatible motor.

[Arizona_928]

That's clean for 300k miles

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

That's clean for 300k miles

Thanks, my pops drilled into my head at a very early age to take care of your vehicle. Typical dad stuff, "any job worth doing, is worth doing correctly". This pick-up was and still is the first new vehicle I have ever purchased and have always stayed on top of maintenance and preventative maintenance as well. Been pretty lucky so far, just routine wear and tear items.

I was able to get 285k out of the transmission before loosing revers and needing it to be rebuilt. Had a local transmission shop overhaul it and provided a 3yr/100K warranty to boot. Out of all of the other vehicles I've owned, this truck has always been the reliable one.

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[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I bought my commercial 7.4L Chevy C3500 from a landscape contractor, who really took great care of it.

It had a crate 7.4L motor in it, but when the shop did the work, they could not re-connect several harnesses, so it lost the use of anti-lock brakes and cruise control. It's not like it goes on the freeway that much, so I don't really care. But the anti-lock brakes would be useful.

I would want a direct fit 100% compatible motor.

Thanks, the options I've been seeing is for the long-block and all of my peripherals need to be swapped over.


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[1990C4S]

Do you know what the compression is?

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Do you know what the compression is?

Nozzir, I do not.


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[1990C4S]

I would start there. Maybe some aluminum heads and headers would get you what you want.

[Brian 162]

Well seeing that you got over 300,000 miles on it I'd re-build your existing motor. Judging from the picture you have taken really good care of that vehicle. The re-build would be the cheapest. I guess you would have to find a reputable engine builder.
Second choice would be a GM crate engine.

[Arizona_928]

I would do a mild cam, rockers/springs so you don't float valves. Heads get expensive quick.

Are you doing a rebuild as preventive maintenance?

[aigel]

I would rebuild the engine and as suggested with some mild upgrades - Mainly an RV grind cam and a good quality timing set, rockers and pushrods. Rebuilding what you have will ensure 100% fit.

It is a fun project to rebuild yourself if you have a good machineshop to work with.

G

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

I would do a mild cam, rockers/springs so you don't float valves. Heads get expensive quick.



Are you doing a rebuild as preventive maintenance?

No, not as preventative maintenance. I am just spitballing ideas so I can plan accordingly. If I put away a little each month, hopefully it was be there when I need it. That being said, it has started doing something very peculiar. When it's warm like it's been, it starts up fine in the morning, but when it's cold and wet, it acts like it's running on 3 cylinders until it warms a little then smooths out. Very strange....

Cheers


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[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

Well seeing that you got over 300,000 miles on it I'd re-build your existing motor. Judging from the picture you have taken really good care of that vehicle. The re-build would be the cheapest. I guess you would have to find a reputable engine builder.
Second choice would be a GM crate engine.

Thanks, I've tried to keep it in good shape and in good working order. I don't thrash it and the paint is fair although last year I gave it my first attempt at painting a two stage paint/clear by re-doing the hood. I just did the front grill and need to tackle the top of the cap next. I keep telling myself it's all skill building whenever I get around to painting the 912's and the 911 back to its original color.



I kinda like the idea of a rebuild but in talking to a local buddy who is also a mechanic, our local machining options have dwindled to nothing. He might have a line on a GM crate engine, if so I can experiment with the original. I like the warranties offered by the GM crates but they are more spendy sort of. My smog is due this Nov so I'll get an idea where it stands.

Cheers



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[aigel]

If a machineshop is hard to come by, what I have done in the past is buy a short block at Autozone and only send the heads out to a machine shop. It was cheaper than doing machine work on the shortblock components and the shortblock came with a warranty. I was also able to check torque and assembly. It came from one of the large rebuild paces. I put a lot of miles on that engine before selling it. It was also faster than building from scratch.

G

[RANDY P]

I was in this situation in 2012.

If it's a stock style rebuild buy a GM crate, nothing else. 2 year 24K drive in warranty- yes, if it breaks you take it to the dealer and they mess with it, even if you did the install. if something goes wrong, and a machine shop, on top of being slow what do you do if they eff it up? From a reputable machine shop, it will cost more, and no warranty. If they screw it up, you're on the hook for R&R

If you want it built your way, then the machine shop. No choice.

Go to Summit racing, they match anyone's prices, tax and shipping included.

[RANDY P]

PS that GM crate motor fired on the first try, and has not done a damn thing wrong in 30K miles. Sucked a bit of oil for 5K, but stopped after that.

I spent $1795 shipped to the local terminal, and a day installing it. Just an L05, stock. For a Vortec it's closer to $2K.

[bugstrider]

Thanks Gents,

I really appreciate all of the feedback while I ponder my plan. This is exactly what I'm looking for. Keep it rolling...


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[asphaltgambler]

I would go for very mild 383 crate motor. The longer stroke will make a big difference over the 350 in your situation. GM has one as most every one else that sells 'crate' engines. You don't have to add headers and all that other performance stuff to make it work. It's what I would recommend if you were my customer.

[yetibone]

Go with Randy's advice on a crate engine straight from the General. You can NOT go wrong with that motor, and it's a ridiculously easy DIY install. You simply can't achieve a complete overhaul on a mouse motor for less money than a brand new GM service replacement.

[bugstrider]

Made a run to Tracy on the hottest day of the year so far. AC on during the flat freeway sections and kept it at 70-75. Saw 16.2 mpg which is higher than what I normally see. All on a motor with 317K. Does the phrase "glows brightest right before it............." mean anything.


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