No there currently is nothing under the metal roof panels , however there will be :D . I am going to staple to the bottom of the roof rafters reflective foil barrier . Comes in 4 ' wide rolls . So it basically will create a 5 " air barrier between the rafter and the metal . The 5 " comes from the 3.5 " rafter and the 1.5 " perlons . Between that and a good amount of ceiling insulation I think I will be OK . Would like to hear your thoughts on this .

Today was good weather so got the back wall 99 % done I ran two 2x6's short :( So another run to the Depot :D The back left corner where there are no studs in the picture is where I will frame up for a door leading to the air compressor room . Tomorrow I will triple check my math for the front wall and garage door supports and purchase that lumber also . Getting closer ! The back wall also gets one window right in the center . The mini split inside unit will be above the top of the window maybe by a foot or so . Here is a pic of today's progress .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513285002.jpg

Cool!

Here is the other pic I was going to post......... I am computer challenged :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513285609.jpg

Those walls look 10 feet high. I'm guessing you will be putting in cross pieces between the studs to land the ends of the plywood?
Best
Les

Seeing that work is still progressing (very nicely I might add) but there is a heavy roof in place and winter air turbulence has arrived, why not toss a few 2x4s on it to triangulate and keep it all square?
The new pine lumber grown these days is grown too fast and gets all squirrely when unbundled anyways.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513299434.jpg

The walls are aprox. 11 ' tall ( just under ) my ceiling height is about 11 ' 10 " or so . John70t I hear you about today's lumber quality but I plan on having sheathing on this by late next week . I'll take a look later today and see if a few braces are needed .

Is insulation a consideration? My understanding is that the roll up style garage doors offer none.

They now have insulated roll up doors . Most insulated garage doors regardless of panel style or roll up are " generally " around R4 . Not a lot but better than nothing . As an example I am looking at Asta model # 202 doors . That happens to be one brand/style that was recommended to me . I will continue to research but I'm 99.9 % sure I will go with 10 x 10 insulated roll up doors .

Today I was able to finish the back wall including the header over the doorway that will lead to the compressor room . I kind of stalled on the front wall as I am now waffling on conventional panel style garage door vs. commercial roll up type . I need to nail down what I want and frame accordingly . Plus it started raining :(

So I put away my tools and came inside . It may rain for the next 3 - 4 days so we'll see how far I get . Plus have company coming from out of town for Christmas so the project may take a back seat for a little bit . Stay tuned for 2018 :D !

Put some of your Christmas company to work. HA!

If you saw the group that is coming you would retract your statement ! If they can tie their shoe that's a good day :( I am used to working alone and actually prefer it if not too physically demanding . That way I only have myself to blame for errors .

Hey guys still here :D We have the grandchildren for a couple of days so work has slowed considerably . But that's OK as I am stalled ( mentally ) on what type and size garage doors I want . I am waffling on insulated commercial style roll up doors vs. insulated conventional panel doors . Originally I was going to go commercial roll up because I do not want the door rails to intrude into the space due to the car lift . But then realized I can go with ceiling hugging rails so that would not be as big of a concern .

I have a garage door guy coming later today to look things over . We had a good conversation last night and it turns out he's my neighbor ;) Yep about an 1/8th of a mile away ! Anyway after today I hope to have nailed down the type and size and then will be able to frame up the front wall . Today while I wait for him to arrive I'm going to layout a 10 x 9 + 10 x 10 and see if they will fit framing wise . If they will fit I think that is what I will go with . The 10 x 10 will lead into the bay with the 2 post lift and can accomodate " kong " my dually pickup . The 10 x 9 obviously will go on the other side and will be plenty wide for cars/SUV's/car trailer etc. at least that is the plan .

keep at it

go with a conventional, insulated door. Cheaper opener and service parts everywhere if/when needed. Looks better, at least to me, too. I ran the rails closer to the ceiling and it clear the lift no problem. First time I had a van in the air I checked every few inches. btw, I really like the side mount opener, quiet, has a lock, decent light, battery option...

I'm following this discussion closely, as I need to get three new garage doors for the shop at my new place in the here in the Fla. panhandle.

Also I'm wondering about the pole barn concept for this area. It seems that nearly every piece of wood here is that is in contact with the ground is eaten up with ants or termites, but mostly ants.

I see that your place is in different soil type. More sandy here. Are ants an issue there? Do you feel that the poles set in concrete will be safe from intrusion from the ground?

If I was any closer I'd have been happy to pop over to help stand up those walls with you. But I do hear you about the peace of working alone.

Cheers Richard

Definitely go with an insulated door. When I replaced my cheap uninsulated wooden doors with good insulated fiberglass doors, it made a noticeable difference. If you go with a standard door and want to use the side mount opener (which I would recommend), make sure you leave adequate room between the side of the garage door frame and the outer wall framing. On my 3rd car garage addition the garage door frame goes almost to the outside corner of the garage, so I couldn't fit the side mount opener. I have the ceiling hugging tracks to clear a lift, the opener hangs down lower than the garage door when open.

Richard I don't find ants to be a problem here but termites can be . The 6 x 6 poles are pressure treated so that helps . There is concrete around them that helps . And after I finish the building and move onto the retaining wall I will douse the ground with termite control liquid . I'll be 60 in January so the building will probably outlast me :D Hey I appreciate the offer for help if you were closer , I lift a beer in your direction !!!

I will definitely go with insulated doors as I had them at my last house/garage it's just a matter of the type . And my plan is to use side mounted openers . I might even go CRAZY and go with one 10 ' x 20 ' single door just depends on what the expert suggests .

Where will you be running your ceiling insulation? Are you using vinyl-backed rolls, or the paper backer?

The insulation will be on top of the ceiling which will be metal panels . Not sure if there is any value using kraft faced but have not researched that yet . So the layup will be metal panels screwed to bottom plate of the rafters as the finished ceiling, then rolled insulation and/or blown in insulation . Then the air space of the " attic " and finally the reflective barrier stapled to the bottom of the rafters under the roof decking .

Particularly with a metal ceiling I would go with kraft faced for the moisture barrier. That should help prevent condensation on the ceiling.

Actually that is what I had in my last garage and it worked fine with no issues . I had the same layup metal ceiling screwed to bottom of rafters , air space of the attic , radiant barrier on the bottom of the rafters under the decking but that garage had conventional shingles . So you are right first layer of insulation will be kraft faced .

That’s a nice look by the way, my father in law did that in a shop that he just built. White corrugated steel siding screwed to the joists. Looks really good.

Had a garage door guy come to the house this morning ( in the pouring rain :mad: ) and we discussed the doors . He is NOT a fan of the insulated commercial roll up doors he said the insulation is really a joke . He is a 3rd generation door guy so I will take his word on that as I know nothing about them . After measuring several times and discussing what I wanted we are going to install a 10 x 10 + 10 x 9 insulated doors with windows in the top panel to add some natural light .

He suggested going with Doorlink # 511 doors . He stated he gets great service/backing from them and that they are good quality doors . He uses commercial door rails vs. homeowner quality , apparently he gets a good price on the commercial product so he uses it on all installs . And with the 10 ' tall doors he said no additional kit will be needed to hug the ceiling because the rails will be close to the ceiling anyway . He really likes Chamberlain door openers and specifically the wall mounted style . He gave me his price , when I told him how much I can buy a " twin pack " for he said go ahead and buy them and he'll install them for no charge .

So I am set for doors and we will order them after I get the garage closed in and electricity installed . And he provided the framing dimensions so I can move forward with that after the holiday . Even though no lumber was cut today and no nails driven we moved forward so that is good .

Weather today was friendly so started framing the front of the garage . After laying it out several times I ended up framing for two 10 ' high x 9 ' wide doors . I just couldn't get over how thin the center support wall was going to be and my dually will fit through a 9 ' door . I just came in from a marathon session but the front is fully framed and I started with both headers . Too dark to take pics .

Tomorrow if the weather cooperates ( supposed to rain ) I will complete both headers and maybe get some plywood on the front . I will try to take some pics tomorrow.

Remember the post is in compression. Four 2x6 . Two to the roof structure and one on each side to land the header.
However you are through that now.
Best
Les

Had another good day but I am beat ! I finished constructing the headers for the garage doors . They are made of three 2 x 8's with a sandwich of 1/2 " CDX plywood each layer is nailed/screwed/construction adhesive they are solid as a rock . So all of my basic framing is complete . I still have to do the top headers for the windows and I'm going to build a front canopy/awning about 20 - 24 " deep to help protect the garage doors from rain . I am very happy I have gotten this far in this time frame . Basically the project is going on hold until after Christmas............. at least that's what I told the wife ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513978326.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513978326.jpg

Looks good. ;)

I'd say you've earned Christmas day off.

Good work.
Best
Les

This morning the wife gave me " the look " , for those of you that are married you know the look............ it's the one that say's go ahead and do what you want ! :D So I skampered outside into the 40 degree temps and a brisk breeze . To be fair my MIL has been staying with us the entire month :( and I have been VERY patient so it's part of the deal . Anyway I completed the mini studded walls above the headers so another step forward .

To Paul and others in the know I have a question . I want to build what I believe is called an eyebrow roof over the garage doors . The mini studded walls above the headers are 2 x 6's , can I take 2 x 6's cut to say 30 " long and nail them at an angle to those studs to create the " mini truss " for that eyebrow roof ? I am hoping to end up with a roof aprox. 24 " deep . I would nail them to the studs with some construction adhesive added for more strength . They would be joined at the ends by a piece of 3/4 like you would do for a rafter end before adding a gutter . No gutter needed here . Would put 1/2 " CDX on top and then metal roofing with drip edge . We get minimal snow here so snow load not a concern , just want to keep some rain off the doors if possible . Here is a pic of today's work , the studs above the headers . And Merry Christmas Eve to EVERYONE !!! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1514150651.jpg

Good idea, especially with no roof overhang. Just frame some triangles from 2x4 or 2x6 and sheath in ext. plywood.

good progress!

Sure give it a try. You could also add some metal strapping for connection strength.

You can do what you are saying, especially if you put a two by four level back on the bottom of your rafters to provide triangulation. Many people would fasten up 2x ledger on the wall as a mount and to seal up the hole to the inside framing. WHat you are talking about is fairly common in balloon framing from the early 1900s. As long as you triangulate, and make sure you use a screw for pull and a nail for shear, you will be fine. closing up the holes works better when you insulate. If you face nail the rafter to a ledger, use solid sheathing for the roof, and tie it to the ledger by nailing down. Your rafters will never pull out. Ledger lock screws work well for attaching ledger securely to a wall.

Now that I know I can build it the way I want should the eyebrow rafters be every 2 foot ? My guess is yes but thought I would ask anyway . And even though they are small cavities I do plan on putting insulation in the area above the headers . Now that I have thought about it I think here is my plan.

1.Install the eyebrow rafters . Will nail to header studs and use construction adhesive.
2.After eyebrow rafters are installed I will then install the exterior plywood to close everything up.
3.I can then insulate from the inside.
4.After the insulation is in I will close up the interior . I can use 2x's or plywood but regardless of what I use I will run screws through it and into the back of the eyebrow rafters . That way they will be attached to the studs AND the back which basically triangulates them .

I am having trouble understanding that last bit.
Here's how I would do it.
Assemble the mini eyebrow rafters in a jig, then use cleats to attach them to the 2x6 studs over the door openings. Then sheath.
I would insulate between the studs. Ignore the space enclosed by the eyebrow rafters.
I doubt that screwing through interior plywood and six inch studs into the eyebrow rafters is worth the trouble.
Best
Les

Wasn't planning on an assy jig , plan is to take one 2 x 6 about 30 " long and hold it up and clamp to one of the studs . Visualize the angle that looks good and make pencil lines on angle cut/s to the back and front . Use that one piece as my template for all the others . Nail each one to the studs with some construction adhesive. Let the construction adhesive dry for a day or two . Then put down CDX as the roof deck and cover with metal roofing . Plywood the exterior vertical surfaces . On the inside of the building I'm now looking at the back of the studs and the back of the eyebrow rafters . Screw either horizontal 2x or CDX to the studs AND the back of the rafters . So the eyebrow rafters are side nailed to the studs and back nailed/screwed to 2x or plywood . Simple and strong . All hollow cavities to be insulated that face the interior , obviously under the eyebrow rafters outside the building get no insulation . Hope that clears up the confusion .

Install one at each end, taking care to get them the right distance out and the same angle. Then run a string line between the two to allow you to install the others quickly.

Ok. You are going to nail the eyebrow rafter pieces to the sides of the studs.
Gotcha.
Screws into the ends of the eyebrow rafters will be going into end grain, but at an angle.
Not really a lot of support there, but should help a little.
Best
Les

Agreed on the end grain but the entire back surface of the eyebrow rafter ( 5.5 " ) will also be butted up to either the plywood or the 2 x depending on what I go with . The rafter won't be able to move if that makes sense . This is one of those " I don't want to over think " scenarios :D It is basically a rain guard and really only has to live through wind and I'm sure my setup will . But thanks for the feedback and questions .

You are very welcome to the feedback. I just wish I could meander across the field and lend a hand.
Best
Les