Dont overthink it. You have a ridge/soffit or gable vents? Assuming so, just use faced batts in the ceiling.

There is a full length ridge vent and I will be installing soffit vents the full 28 ' depth on both sides . And I agree I am over thinking this . I am going to install the radiant barrier that I already have because I know it works to help keep heat out of the attic space . Then one layer of kraft faced fiberglass insulation on the ceiling . Will add more fiberglass ( blown in ) if needed . Thanks for snapping me back to reality .

I got the call :D Yep the Z metal was ready so I picked it up late today . Tomorrow I will install and then start hanging plywood !

Today I installed all of the Z flashing then turned to the eye brow rafters it was just too muddy to install plywood today . So I now have all of the eye brow rafters in tomorrow I'll add PVC trim to the fascia then some plywood and roofing paper . May not get the metal roof on tomorrow but maybe Thursday . By then mud should be dry and I can start on the plywood .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1516747000.jpg

Decent progress today fascia boards installed on eye brow rafters and plywood deck for the roof is installed also . Tomorrow I have some aluminum trim work to do then install roofing paper and cut/install the metal roof . I'll be glad when this little roof is done so I can get cranking on the walls . Supposed to start raining this weekend :(

Today I just wasn't in the mood to be on the ladder to complete the mini roof over the garage doors . So I went balls out to get some plywood on the building . Not sure how many friggen screws I drove today but both sides and the back now have the first row of plywood installed .

Took my router and cleaned up around window openings and anywhere I went a little long . I put a 4 ' level on every piece it is dead nuts level :D And the plywood is spaced 3/4 " above the Z flashing . While I am beat I am also inspired as it's starting to look like a building ;) Tomorrow I have to complete the metal roof over the garage doors because it is supposed to rain Sat. and Sunday :( The next row just stacks on top of the first row I'm still thinking I may have it enclosed by end of next week IF the weather cooperates ....... we'll see . I'm not ashamed to say I feel my 60 years today I am sore all over :D

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1516918759.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1516918759.jpg

That is some nice progress, and good training for the coming effort of lifting the rest of the ply into place.

Yes we are also having a nice spell of weather these days here in the panhandle.
I've been surprised how closely our weather matches in timing, considering the distance.

Good luck in getting it closed in before this wet weekend comes.

Cheers Richard.

It will take me most of the day today to complete the roof over the garage so no more plywood will be going up until tomorrows expected rain . Now if the rain holds off that's a different story . The good news is the next row of plywood will be the last row of full size sheets . The top row will be partial sheets closer to 2 ' x 8 ' in size so a little easier to juggle which is good because it will be on a ladder .

Once I complete the exterior sheathing I will wrap with house wrap I recently picked up a partial roll that is 9 ' x 120 ' for $25.00 ( nice score ) . After that I'll install the windows and the side entry door . Then it's a call to the electrician to do his thing . That will be a major turning point .

Today was another good day , one layer of 30 lb. roofing paper went down and then I started cutting roofing metal . I'm using a circular saw with a plywood blade installed backwards . It works but WOW is it noisy !!! Anyway I have two pieces left to cut and done . Will finish up tomorrow as the rain is supposed to hit late in the day . I also have to bend up the roof flashing to go under the gable metal and onto the roof metal . White painted aluminum is what I'm using . Will post a pic or two tomorrow once it's done .

I started early this morning because the weather forecast was not good . I had two pieces of roofing left to cut and install . Got that done pretty quick and felt good but that feeling would soon exit stage left :D To make it a little quicker I was installing the roof sections with one roofing nail , the intent was to just hold them in place until I could come back with the screws . So after I got the last panel in place I grabbed the bag of " special color coded " supposed self drilling screws . I say supposed because not one of the damn things would self drill .......... UH OH now what ? Rain was coming so I added just enough roofing nails so it was storm ready and then turned to the flashing .

The flashing is needed to transition from the vertical gable metal to the angled eye brow roof . I had removed all of the screws holding the bottom of the gable metal so now just had to bend up some aluminum , slip it behind the vertical metal and replace the removed screws . Sounds simple enough . First task was to take the coil stock 10 " wide painted white/brown material and stretch it out and make the angled bend . My " brake " was a piece of plywood :D . Only had to get a slight bend in it because once slid behind the other metal it would form on it's own .

Just as I attempted to install the first piece of course it started to rain :mad: There's something special about being 12 ' in the air on a ladder with an electric drill in hand while being rained on :D I needed to install three pieces and it poured on me three times........ I guess mother nature calls us even ;) But I persevered and have it all tucked in behind the vertical metal . I was not able to tack down any of the roof portion because of the screw issue and I forgot to purchase the foam that goes under the flashing to keep wind driven rain and bugs out . So I have to go purchase the foam on Monday and I guess I will pre-drill the holes for the screws.

I was pretty pissed off by the time I finished so just took this one crappy pic . The black you see on the fascia is the roofing paper that I extended down from the roof . That will be covered with metal also . If the weather is good on Monday I will start installing the next row of plywood on the walls . I'm taking the rest of today/tomorrow off to rest and watch the 24 hours of Daytona .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517081103.jpg

It's coming along. Not surprising that when going from one material to another, wood to metal, that there are hiccups. You are getting there.

I've got to ask where you are finding these good deals on materials?

Cheers Richard

I seem to have a knack for finding deals , being retired I have the time to look . The 10.00 per sheet plywood and the 25.00 roll of house wrap were both Craigslist scores . The entry door and four windows came from a local liquidator . The Mitsubishi mini split was purchased from an online retailer . If I go with metal siding when I was at the shop picking up the Z metal I saw they sell " 2nds " for 1.69 l.f. vs. first quality at 1.89 . I asked what the difference was and they stated color match can't be guaranteed with the 2nds . But all I care about is it matches itself and they have 8000 ' rolls that they will make the panels from . Every little bit helps on a large project.

I'm no different than anyone else , I want the best bang for my buck . I want the building to be structurally sound , look good and be as maintenance free as possible . I have been shopping wall insulation for a few weeks now , there are the local box stores , local insulation warehouses and out of state insulation businesses . I will consider cost of fuel vs. not paying sales tax for out of state purchase but Alabama or Tenn. are very close . And I'm not ruling out hiring out the insulation but have to get some quotes . Might even go with 2 " of spray on foam and then conventional fiberglass to fill the wall cavity . Time will tell .

Need some advice from the gang :D . I decided to look for spray foam insulation contractors and get prices for just doing the walls . I have aprox. 1016 s.f. of wall cavities to fill . Received one price of $1930.00 for 3 " of closed cell foam . Received another quote for $2200.00 for 2 " of closed cell foam . The higher quote the guy was very boastful that he's a real pro , licensed and bonded with two " citizens " in the trailer . I guess it was his way of saying if someone is lower priced they will not give you as good a job as he will . I have no way of proving or disproving .

So looking at Home Depot website and I know I can buy cheaper they have R19 Kraft faced insulation for $70.11 for 118.83 s.f. so I would have to purchase 9 rolls/bundles . Even at their inflated price it's $630.99 . Quite a difference between foam and fiberglass but I also know it's not an apples to apples comparison . The only reason I am considering the foam is I like the idea of the added structural rigidity and its resistance to bugs/mice . But on the rigidity I will have 1/2 plywood inside and out so how much more strength do I need ? And we have no issues with bugs/mice in our house so probably won't have issues in the man cave .

For the price difference I would probably go with the R21 insulation or Roxul and would probably be better off . What would you guys do ? I also have to remember that I will NOT be running the AC/heat 24/7 . I will run it when I am using the garage and only when it's needed . I think this is another " over thinking " moment talk me off the ledge guys :D

I am a big fan of Roxul mineral wool bats. High density reduces drafts and fire proof.

roxul is great, as mentioned it doenst burn/no paper and helps with sound. I used it with a semi-solid vapor barrier, simple but a bit more time. Its not cheap though. Its my personal choice. Think about how often or if you will change wiring. Popping a few holes or removing a panel then some insulation is much easier than chipping foam to add a new piece of 12/3 or whatever.

Those are my thoughts as well.

I used Prodex when I wrapped my old tobacco barn.

http://www.prodexcr.com/descargas/23%20AD5-%20AD10%20INGLES.pdf

I don't remember the price but it was less than foam. There are other reasons I walked from foam, but they do not apply in your case.

Today started out in low 30's I waited until 10:00 when it had warmed to 32 degrees :rolleyes: Anyway I now have the 2nd row of plywood installed on both sides and the back I'm almost there ! Tomorrow morning I will clean up with my router the window and door openings and the ends where I left it a little long . Then onto the top row , with any luck she'll be enclosed by the end of the day tomorrow !

My goal if the weather holds up is to have it house wrapped by Sunday . I contacted the electrician and asked him to put me on his schedule because I'll be ready by the end of next week . That will be a huge step forward as I'll then be able to move forward with the garage doors . And once the house wrap is done I'll go ahead and install the four windows and the entry door .

I did some online shopping for the Roxul insulation wow they are proud of that product ;) But it sure looks like good stuff I'll have to do more research and try to find a deal . To those of you that chimed in on the insulation thank you . Here are 3 pics of today's progress . The 16 ounce Michelob Ultra's are flowing just fine as I type this......... purely for medicinal purposes :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517352945.jpg
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I'm loving this thread, you've inspired me to start up my own man shed thread

I'll wait until I've finished it so you guys can see how a UK Pelican goes about building a much smaller UK version

Hey! Mr. Wolf you can huff and puff but you'll never blow down my man cave!

Nice to see we have an international audience ;) I'm pretty sure Mr. Wolf can't blow down my man cave he'll need a lot of help . I'm sitting here drinking coffee and mentally going over my tasks for the day . I'm still a bit tired/sore from yesterday so today's pace will be slower . It's not a race but a marathon :D

Today was another chilly morning so I didn't start until almost 10:30 . Cleaned up all of the window and door openings with my router so they are done . I then started on the left side as it was in the sun . While still cool the sun felt real good . Positioning ladders on the sides is a challenge because of the excavation and elevation . I have one of those as seen on TV multi position ladders and it came in very handy . I was making precise cuts here so took a little longer . But I'm happy to say the plywood is 100 % done on the left side ! WOOHOO some good visual progress :D

Tomorrow I will attempt to get the right side done , because all my router work is done I think I'll be able to get the right side done . Then it's just the back . After tomorrow the weather is going to be iffy with chances of rain so I'll just take it one day at a time . Here is one pic of the completed left side .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517438365.jpg

Another good day as it was close to 40 degrees by 10:00 so out I went . The right side took a little longer than the left because I was using up some cutoff pieces to complete that side . I'm trying to make sure I end up with enough or very close for the interior out of my original purchase of plywood . But the right side is now done !

For the back I have to rip three sheets of plywood about 36 " wide , install them and the back will be done other than the compressor room . It is supposed to start raining tonight and rain tomorrow but maybe by the end of the weekend the back will be enclosed .

I'm feeling pretty damn good about where I'm at in the build , remember I'm it no help from anyone :( . Here is a pic of the right side .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517517714.jpg

WOW is it windy out ! If I went out with a piece of plywood I would become a glider :D So I'm taking today off but will take some time to clean up the inside . I have a lot of little wood scraps and saw dust everywhere so I need to clean it so it's less of a safety hazard . Plus my arms/shoulders/back need some time off :( I'll follow up with updates as they happen . Enjoy the weekend guys . SmileWavy

Great progress! Enjoying following your build.

One piece at a time will get it done. 😄

Cooper

A little late now, but it would have added strength if you had offset the plywood seams. You could have cut one sheet in half lengthwise so that the joints didn't all run on the same stud.

I think when I install the plywood on the interior I am going to run it vertical vs. horizontal so will get offset vs. the exterior .

AFAIK: You will compromise all strength of the grain, with triangulation and distribution of load.

There is no vertical snow load, so unless you are planning for a tree fall you should be doubling up the studs with hurricane clips and overpriced patented Simpson hardware or use another fillet system to anchor it all together.

I am sure there are things that I could have done differently but it is almost done and I'm sure is not going anywhere . The walls are rock solid and will only get stronger when the interior plywood is installed regardless if it is installed vertical or horizontal . And if I go with vertical metal siding which I'm 95 % sure I will that will also help with strength . Vertical studs with horizontal plywood then vertical metal panels all screwed together = a building that will be around longer than I am :D

Yesterday I had a contractor come out and look the building over to give me an estimate on the installation of the metal siding , hope to hear back from him early next week . He said so far I have done a great job and he would have no problem installing the siding over the work I have done . It was way too windy yesterday to do anything but maybe today I can finish up the back .

It was 28 degrees when I went out this morning :eek: but I was determined to get the back done........ and it is ! So the building is 100 % plywood sheathed on the exterior.........WOOHOO !!! :D I just sent a text message to the electrician letting him know I'm ready for him . And yesterday had a contractor stop by to look it over to give me a quote on metal siding . This coming Friday a friend of mine stopping by to help me do the house wrap . I think the next four weeks will be exciting . Pretty soon I need to turn my attention to the retaining walls . Here are two pics of the back of the garage .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517688711.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517688711.jpg

So nice seeing it all closed in like that! Congrats on pulling it off even thru the winter.
Well done, you have earned a cold one or two in celebration!

Cheers Richard

Thanks it does feel good . The electrician texted me back we're a go for this coming Friday if it's not raining . I can see a real possibility that the garage will have power , exterior siding and windows/doors/garage doors by the end of February or beginning of March which is right in line with what I was hoping for . I also need to plan for the install of the two post lift that has been sitting on my car trailer for the past 8 months :( This is all coming together nicely .

Wow, I just saw an episode of This Old House, that featured a precast concrete wall with natural stone face and top. It was built off site and set in place in what looked like 10' or 12' sections on prepared beds of compacted gravel. Then installed on site in one day.
This may not fit your DIY plans, but worth looking into. As the process of hand building a rock wall is demanding and time consuming. Plus there is a knack to stone masonry that takes a while to pick up.

Your retaining wall came to mind as the show unfolded so I thought I'd bring it to your attention.

Cheers Richard

Sounds like a nice way to go on the retaining wall but I don't have a This Old House budget :( . I got a quote for a concrete retaining wall from the guy that poured the floor and it was almost $9,000.00 ! That's WAY over my budget . I have talked to several stone suppliers and the stackable blocks are right at $2,000.00 with cap stones .

Yesterday my realtor that hooked us up with the house gave me the name of a local REAL lumber yard/distributor that sells pressure treated ground contact products . Next week I will stop there and price out 6x6 and see how it compares . My thoughts are build the walls , coat the backside with foundation coating then back fill with gravel . Have drainage pipe on the perimeter of the wall next to the first course that exits to the front on both sides .

I will have to see what the overall costs are wood vs. stone to make the final decision . I think I have the skill set to pull off either so price and overall longevity will be the main drivers .

Stackable retaining stones are pretty simple and the manufacturers should have detailed directions on where and how to set the first row and get drainage right.

The tough part is lifting them!

Railroad ties stacked make a nice less expensive retaining wall and they last a ridiculously long time. You can buy good used ties at places like Lowes or Home Depot. If you know where they are replacing ties along a rail you can ask the work crew and normally they'll let you grab some.

Man it poured rain here all last night and into mid morning........ I mean POURED ! After if finally let up I went out to look over the damage and the building was very dry inside . Got some water in the window and door openings but that's it . That is the hardest I have seen it rain here since we moved here mid summer . Drainage does not appear to be an issue it looks like the current ground elevation is close to being correct . When I do the retaining walls I will make sure I angle the soil/gravel away from the building towards the wall . And to grade angle back to front . Looks like I can put down 6 inches or so of gravel which will be clean to look at , will drain well and is easy to put down . Plus once I install gutters on both sides that will eliminate a good portion of the water runoff .

I sent the garage door guy a text letting him know I'm getting close and I asked him to stop by next week . I want him to look at and measure the openings to make sure I have them sized correctly and that they will be strong enough . I'm expecting no issues but you never know . He replied back that he'll show up sometime next week . I'm not doing anything on the building today , just taking it easy and going to watch the super bowl .

Yesterday I went to the lumber yard that has the ground contact pressure treated lumber . They have # 3 grade for 17.00 for a 6x6x8 ' . I asked if there is a difference between # 2 + # 3 in regards to the actual preservative used and the answer was no . It was stated that # 3 generally will have one side that is uglier than the rest in regards to chipping or knots it's a cosmetic thing . So if you get some that have an ugly side you put that side either down or towards the back so it won't be seen . They sell the # 2 for 21.00 so crunching some very rough numbers the three walls will be about $1100.00 total vs. the stone at $2,000.00 . That difference in cost will almost pay for all of the buildings insulation . I have some thinking to do :D

If you were considering these for the retaining walls, let me make one point. If you build them from masonry, even something like Versa-lok blocks, it's a permanent wall. If you build it correctly, you'll never have to mess with it again. If you build it from any kind of wood product, whether it's treated lumber or railroad ties, it will have a finite life and you will get to do it again if you live there long enough.

That idea above of using railroad ties sounded like a great way to go. Other than pier piling, it would be hard to find better wood for ground contact.
You could use your craigslist prowess and see what turns up.

Is my impression correct, that current treatment for wood is a bit less effective, in trying to make it kinder on those handeling it?

Cheers Richard

I hate to think that I was advocating the use of railroad ties, I think they're crap. Anyway, what you're probably thinking about was the change about 15 years ago with respect to compounds that contain arsenic. Those compounds are still used, they just limited where you could put the products that contain them. There are many, many chemicals used to treat lumber products. Some have a fairly extensive proclaimed lifetimes, I don't think they'll last nearly as long as they claim. They also claim that many of them are termite proof, my experience has been that eventually termites will eat them.

I've actually removed all the ground contacting wood from my property.

Believe me I get it that the stackable stone blocks are a much better long term investment , I'm just exploring all options . And I do believe that pressure treated wood being sold today is inferior to what was sold 10 years ago . In a different area of our property there is a railroad tie set of steps . Whoever built it did a good job it is kind of a cathedral shape to it . But there are several ties that are completely rotted and I believe this was built in 1996 the same time the house was . So the timbers made it 22 years .

However the one thing they didn't do when they built these steps is they did not backfill with gravel , they backfilled with soil . I know that has to be a contributor to their decay but I can't say how much . And I'm not 100 % convinced that I have to use the large retaining wall blocks . This excavated space has been open/exposed to the elements for about 7 months now and it has not budged . A very small amount of dirt has fallen due to rain/gravity/wind but I stress it's a very small amount . Could I use the less expensive blocks sold at the box stores that are generally for walls 2 ' in height ? I remeasured the height yesterday and I'm just a little over 4 ' at the back . If I put down a bed of # 57 gravels lets say 3 " deep , tamp/compact it down and put down my first course . Then every course after that add a little construction adhesive and every foot or so retaining wall mesh . Will that work ? I don't know it's all in my planning questions that I'm trying to answer . I appreciate all of the feedback because it encourages thinking which is good .