No they won't but I'd rather have plywood.

Paul and others in the building trades , thinking ahead to when I have the exterior plywood installed and am ready for siding . My question is about the use of house wrap . If I go with vinyl siding I think the use of house wrap is preferred . But if I go with metal panels installed vertically I don't think wrap should be used is that correct ? My thoughts are the metal can't be penetrated by wind other than marginal at overlapping seams . Am I correct or no ?

Also the plan is to use kraft faced fiberglass insulation and I have read that the kraft paper is somewhat a moisture barrier . I don't want to over analyze this it is a garage vs. a house but I want to get it right the first time ;) So the construction of the walls will be 1/2 " CDX on the interior painted, then 5 1/2 " kraft faced fiberglass insulation , then 1/2 " CDX on the exterior and then the final siding . And if wrap is suggested does it have to be house wrap or can it be roofing felt ? Thanks in advance .

You are over thinking a bit but that's ok. We all do on our own projects.

Join and ask here......


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The subject of moisture barriers is a complex one. It depends on your climate and a couple other factors. It's talked about it extensively on the Internet, I guarantee when you finish reading about it you'll be more confused than ever.

Paul thanks for the link , I just joined and fired off my first post asking about the wrap . We'll see what they have to say and I KNEW I would start over thinking this !!!

Do you have plans for further changing the surrounding terrain to make sure nothing bad happens if you have a couple of days of heavy rain (or a lot of snow)?

I'm no expert on these things, but it looks like something you want to be thinking about so you can address it before you finish.

I'm sure there are people here that can offer some suggestions... especially if you could show more about where water can go after it comes down that hill and comes up to your slab and has to find its way around it and down, past, and away from it toward what I assume is the front of your property.

I hope long sentences don't frighten you.

Heel and Toe once I get the building completed then I move onto the retaining wall around the perimeter of the building . The ground was excavated aprox. 3 ' larger than the building allowing me space to put up a retaining wall . My plan is to have the wall a little bit taller than the current elevation with the dirt sloped away from the wall . I really only have to control the back because both sides have the natural slope . Will build a stone wall with plenty of gravel for the base and backfill . Will also add a french drain on all 3 sides . From the building I will add dirt as needed for a gentle slope towards the retaining wall and towards the front where any drainage will run.

Final fill will be a bed of gravel 5 - 6 " deep . As it is right now with heavy rains or the snow melt from our recent storm the only water accumulation is at the very front on both sides . And I expect that because I dug that down a bit for a pit if you will to capture the water until I can get to the wall, these pits once full allow water to run out to the driveway it's working well for now . I have no concerns regarding water intrusion . The final bit of water control will be roof gutters on both sides with the rear downspouts exiting on the outside of the wall and the front downspouts exiting onto the gravel driveway .

Cool... you've obviously got it handled. Nicely.

Weather was nice today so I finished studding up the 2nd 28 ' wall so two down and two to go ! Supposed to be decent the rest of the week so going to keep plugging along . I'll take some pics when I finish with the studs on the back wall .

Took another step forward today I picked up 68 sheets of 1/2 CDX plywood . Found someone on CL selling used , they are a company that refurb's box store interiors . Generally they are required to put up dust barrier walls and in some cases the walls need to be painted white . So other than some screw holes they are in great shape . Best part 10.00 per sheet with no tax ! So now I have all the plywood I need to finish the interior and sheath the exterior . Too cold today ( for me ) to work outside but will get back on it tomorrow .

I'm getting inspired!

Haha I'm glad I could help ! :D I'm actually pretty excited at this point but I have a long ways to go . I am hoping I can finish studding up the back wall tomorrow and post a pic or two . The front wall/garage door studs will be the most challenging for me . I'm in new territory as I have never framed for garage doors or made my own laminated beams . Just another chance to learn something new .

If I could offer a little advice on the header over the garage door... that's a good place to use an LVL, or similar product. If you make your own beam out of dimensional lumber, like 2 x 12's, expect them to shrink over time at least a half inch across the width. A beam made from plywood, or metal, won't have this problem.

JR

I sandwiched 2 2x12 's with plywood in the middle bolted together in 1998, all is good...maybe I need to check it, Ha!

My plan is to have two 10 x 10 roll up garage doors . So my 24 ' width , divided in two leaves the amount of wall studs . Rough figures are a 15 " wide walls on both ends and a 16 " in the center . These walls will have jack studs ( is that the right term ? ) to set the header beams onto . Because I'm only spanning 10 ' on each side I was going to make them out of 2x6 and plywood . I haven't done the final math but something like 1/2 " plywood , then 2x6 , then 1/2 " plywood , then 2x6 and finish up with 1/2 " plywood . This adds up to 5.5 " thick which matches the 2x6 jack studs . Good or no good ? I'm thinking this sandwich all glued/nailed/screwed together isn't going to move in my lifetime . And then there will be 1/2 " CDX on the interior and exterior tying this all together as a structure .

Are the headers above the doors carrying any load?

FYI my wife and I had a discussion about man cave's and she shacks Joanna mentioned that if a person she knew had a She Shack that it could be referred as a "Bitc h Barn"

I would go at least 2x8 to span that.
This header will likely be carrying the tension spring for the roll up doors as well as the studs for the wall up to the roof. Yes?
Maybe 2x10.

Best
Les

Just noticed something. Did you place plastic/tar paper/ house wrap underneath the tin? In our climate (I live about 30 miles north of you), you are going to be getting a LOT of condensation that will rain down from bare metal. Trust me on this; if you don't have a barrier, you need to either pull the tin and put one down or have spray insulation installed to the underside of the tin.

The roll up doors I am going to use are the commercial style ( drum type ) vs. conventional panel doors . So no tension springs to mount to the header . But the wall/header does have to carry/support the weight of the roll up doors and their mounting brackets . I will look this over some more . Being a pole barn in theory none of the walls are weight bearing because the poles are what carries the weight of the roof structure . But common sense tells you they will carry/distribute some weight . Thanks for the feedback .