No there currently is nothing under the metal roof panels , however there will be :D . I am going to staple to the bottom of the roof rafters reflective foil barrier . Comes in 4 ' wide rolls . So it basically will create a 5 " air barrier between the rafter and the metal . The 5 " comes from the 3.5 " rafter and the 1.5 " perlons . Between that and a good amount of ceiling insulation I think I will be OK . Would like to hear your thoughts on this .

Today was good weather so got the back wall 99 % done I ran two 2x6's short :( So another run to the Depot :D The back left corner where there are no studs in the picture is where I will frame up for a door leading to the air compressor room . Tomorrow I will triple check my math for the front wall and garage door supports and purchase that lumber also . Getting closer ! The back wall also gets one window right in the center . The mini split inside unit will be above the top of the window maybe by a foot or so . Here is a pic of today's progress .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513285002.jpg

Cool!

Here is the other pic I was going to post......... I am computer challenged :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513285609.jpg

Those walls look 10 feet high. I'm guessing you will be putting in cross pieces between the studs to land the ends of the plywood?
Best
Les

Seeing that work is still progressing (very nicely I might add) but there is a heavy roof in place and winter air turbulence has arrived, why not toss a few 2x4s on it to triangulate and keep it all square?
The new pine lumber grown these days is grown too fast and gets all squirrely when unbundled anyways.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513299434.jpg

The walls are aprox. 11 ' tall ( just under ) my ceiling height is about 11 ' 10 " or so . John70t I hear you about today's lumber quality but I plan on having sheathing on this by late next week . I'll take a look later today and see if a few braces are needed .

Is insulation a consideration? My understanding is that the roll up style garage doors offer none.

They now have insulated roll up doors . Most insulated garage doors regardless of panel style or roll up are " generally " around R4 . Not a lot but better than nothing . As an example I am looking at Asta model # 202 doors . That happens to be one brand/style that was recommended to me . I will continue to research but I'm 99.9 % sure I will go with 10 x 10 insulated roll up doors .

Today I was able to finish the back wall including the header over the doorway that will lead to the compressor room . I kind of stalled on the front wall as I am now waffling on conventional panel style garage door vs. commercial roll up type . I need to nail down what I want and frame accordingly . Plus it started raining :(

So I put away my tools and came inside . It may rain for the next 3 - 4 days so we'll see how far I get . Plus have company coming from out of town for Christmas so the project may take a back seat for a little bit . Stay tuned for 2018 :D !

Put some of your Christmas company to work. HA!

If you saw the group that is coming you would retract your statement ! If they can tie their shoe that's a good day :( I am used to working alone and actually prefer it if not too physically demanding . That way I only have myself to blame for errors .

Hey guys still here :D We have the grandchildren for a couple of days so work has slowed considerably . But that's OK as I am stalled ( mentally ) on what type and size garage doors I want . I am waffling on insulated commercial style roll up doors vs. insulated conventional panel doors . Originally I was going to go commercial roll up because I do not want the door rails to intrude into the space due to the car lift . But then realized I can go with ceiling hugging rails so that would not be as big of a concern .

I have a garage door guy coming later today to look things over . We had a good conversation last night and it turns out he's my neighbor ;) Yep about an 1/8th of a mile away ! Anyway after today I hope to have nailed down the type and size and then will be able to frame up the front wall . Today while I wait for him to arrive I'm going to layout a 10 x 9 + 10 x 10 and see if they will fit framing wise . If they will fit I think that is what I will go with . The 10 x 10 will lead into the bay with the 2 post lift and can accomodate " kong " my dually pickup . The 10 x 9 obviously will go on the other side and will be plenty wide for cars/SUV's/car trailer etc. at least that is the plan .

keep at it

go with a conventional, insulated door. Cheaper opener and service parts everywhere if/when needed. Looks better, at least to me, too. I ran the rails closer to the ceiling and it clear the lift no problem. First time I had a van in the air I checked every few inches. btw, I really like the side mount opener, quiet, has a lock, decent light, battery option...

I'm following this discussion closely, as I need to get three new garage doors for the shop at my new place in the here in the Fla. panhandle.

Also I'm wondering about the pole barn concept for this area. It seems that nearly every piece of wood here is that is in contact with the ground is eaten up with ants or termites, but mostly ants.

I see that your place is in different soil type. More sandy here. Are ants an issue there? Do you feel that the poles set in concrete will be safe from intrusion from the ground?

If I was any closer I'd have been happy to pop over to help stand up those walls with you. But I do hear you about the peace of working alone.

Cheers Richard

Definitely go with an insulated door. When I replaced my cheap uninsulated wooden doors with good insulated fiberglass doors, it made a noticeable difference. If you go with a standard door and want to use the side mount opener (which I would recommend), make sure you leave adequate room between the side of the garage door frame and the outer wall framing. On my 3rd car garage addition the garage door frame goes almost to the outside corner of the garage, so I couldn't fit the side mount opener. I have the ceiling hugging tracks to clear a lift, the opener hangs down lower than the garage door when open.

Richard I don't find ants to be a problem here but termites can be . The 6 x 6 poles are pressure treated so that helps . There is concrete around them that helps . And after I finish the building and move onto the retaining wall I will douse the ground with termite control liquid . I'll be 60 in January so the building will probably outlast me :D Hey I appreciate the offer for help if you were closer , I lift a beer in your direction !!!

I will definitely go with insulated doors as I had them at my last house/garage it's just a matter of the type . And my plan is to use side mounted openers . I might even go CRAZY and go with one 10 ' x 20 ' single door just depends on what the expert suggests .

Where will you be running your ceiling insulation? Are you using vinyl-backed rolls, or the paper backer?

The insulation will be on top of the ceiling which will be metal panels . Not sure if there is any value using kraft faced but have not researched that yet . So the layup will be metal panels screwed to bottom plate of the rafters as the finished ceiling, then rolled insulation and/or blown in insulation . Then the air space of the " attic " and finally the reflective barrier stapled to the bottom of the rafters under the roof decking .