The project 911R something...
 

Hi all, SmileWavy
My name is Derek and I'm fairly new to this site. I've purchased someone else's project car. It's a 1978 Euro SC, no sunroof coupe, that was imported to the US back in 1984. The plan is to use M.A. Shaw Narrow RSR front bumper (The one w/the splitter) Rear RS bumper for SC flairs and a duck tail.

At this point, I'm doing some rust repair prior to having the whole car media blasted. Some was completed by the PO. When I got the car, it came already mounted on a homemade rotisserie and boxes and boxes of parts.

Like some others on this site, I'm a better grinder than welder...

If you sub to this thread, be prepared for about a year or so. The immediate goal is to have the car painted by this time next year. :D

Suggestions, advice, comments are welcome.

Enjoy!

The car
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2288.jpg

Typical rust area repaired!
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2291.jpg

Getting the jam to match up with the door requires lots of patience... the original part might help too. On to the passenger side.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2293.jpg

Looking good Derek, a nice first 911 project. What color is she going to be?

I've always wanted a black one... I'm toying with a creamy yellow... like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256328919.jpg

or black like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256328966.jpg

The following pictures tell the story of how I spent my two week vacation. I didn't work on it every day but at least every other day. Some things are more time consuming than others. Things don't always go as planned. All of the work being performed is in order to erradicate the cancer and prepare the car for the media blaster dude.

This one took awhile... rusted panel around oil tank replaced!
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2635.jpg

A bit of rust repair on the right rear quarter and trimming of the jack receiver. You can kinda see the nuts I welded on for the installation of the oil lines.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2636.jpg

Passenger side door striker plate now welded in place.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2637.jpg

Antenna hole... gone! Found some bondo on the fenders I bought, ugh!
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2638.jpg

Another patch repair made.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2640.jpg

And finally the last panel to be replaced. It may not look bad but it's rusted badly from the other side.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2642.jpg

Subscribed.

I found more rust... the worst yet. The heavy duty bracket that the rear bumper mounts to (drivers side) is beyond repair and needs to be replaced. You can see the bracket in question in the previous picture before I cut into it. Unfortunately the rust has found it's way into the frame rail. I can get a couple of the parts needed new, but if anyone has that rear bracket, let me know. I need it!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264281133.jpg

Hi

If you're planning on using a RS style rear, I'm pretty sure you won't need that bracket - certainly earlier cars don't have it all.

Fishcop, I thought about that, but then I'd have to go and do the same thing to the other side to make it even. Also, it's considered a reinforcement... I think I'll go ahead and do it the right way.


Today, I got out the heat gun for some fun with that tar like crap on the floor pan... weighed it when I was done to. 14 lbs. is what the trusty bathroom scale came up with. I'm sure there's a thread on weights but I thought I'd post this here. I will be putting some sound dampening materials back in the car but hopefully when all is said and done, it will be a net loss of some significance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549265.jpg

Smugglers box repair made. The bottom, inside of the box, was very rusty No doubt from 32 years of spray from the tires, entering through the vents in the wheel well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549532.jpg

Repair made to the passenger side wheel well. The rust seems endless on this car... :p

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549635.jpg

I think this just might have to be the body color... instead of black!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264550233.jpg

Help with the door striker plate please ?
 

Hi Derek.

I'm Christos. I'm fairly new here too. I bought a 912 targa recently and have very similar issues, located mainly at the door sills, behind the weather seals at the trailing edge of the door.

My door sill rust issue

Since you spent plenty of time on this car on your own you must be very familiar , at this point. If you would please help me resolve an issue: At the lock side, back of the door casing (at the rear pillar), three panels join along the vertical seam.
1) outer most, the fender including an "endcap" at the door sill. You show this clearly at your photos calling it the door striker plate. This plate is also distributed separately from the fender as a replacement part.
2) at the middle, the - side panel, wheel housing
3) inner most, the rear bulkead *in the case of the coupe this piece is not a bulkhead but a simple profile - on the targa it is a sheet triangular that is welded all the way to the back of the cabin, I assume for extra reinforcement.

Now there are differences between the coupe and the targa - which I have. But according to catalog both take the same striker plate. My question is about the form of the edge of the striker plate to the wheel housing - see my sketch -
A) is it angled ?
B) does it form a U-channel where the rubber seal is embedded ( or is this fold on the wheel housing?)
C) is it straight edged sheet?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265741052.jpg

Part no. for the striker plate?
 

It looks in your photos that the part nos are
591048 for the (R) passenger side and
591047 for the (L) driver side

But this is not Porsche catalog format eg
911-502-042-03 (R)
911-502-041-03 (L)

I'll be brief as I'm off to work for 12 or so hrs.

If I'm understanding you correctly, and I think I am, the panel meets the "b pillar?" as you have depicted in your diagram "A" (angled) It is spot welded (as is most everything on these cars) to the pillar. Simply drill them out to remove the panel. The welds between the rear 1/4 and the "panel" are easier to see and drill out from the wheelhouse side. Also, on my car, there is a joint at the bottom corner of the door that the factory leaded in. (see my pics) Heat up the area with a propane torch and the lead will melt away to reveal the joint. If you have more ?'s, I'll help as best I can.
Derek

And yes, the parts are NON-Porsche repros. They came with the car when I bought it. Do you need the part nos.? Supplier? I have the receipt... somewhere.

Found it , it's aftermarket by Dansk
 

It is from a company called Dansk, in Denmark
Many-many thanks Derek, I owe you one

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265883205.jpg

? Spotwelding the outer stricker plate seam to fender panel ?
 

Derek one more question please,
How do you spotweld the stricker plate to the rear 1/4 along the fender outer edge? (Not the 3 ply seam in the middle)
You have access from the door sill on the one side and the wheel well on the other. It seems you can't apply a pincher there - so says my shop technician. His electro-spot-welding gear is like a pincher and is applied as a clamp. You can't fit tongs around the fender wheelhouse, is there other equipment?

I don't even have a spot welder. I use a mig for everything. I'm hoping your shop technician is a body guy. If not, you may want to take it to someone qualified to do this. There is quite a bit of trimming to be done on the new piece to get it to fit properly. If it's not done correctly, the door gap will be off and the 1/4 panel curve (profile) won't be right.
That said, the flange for the new panel fits in behind the quarter panel. So, once the spot welds have been drilled out and the new panel fitted, the spot's can be filled from the jam side with a mig welder. In places where the new panel would not quite draw tight to the quarter panel, I drlled a small hole through both panels and used a sheet metal screw to close up the gap. After welding, the screw can be removed and the hole filled with the mig. After all that, the welds are then ground flat.
Also there are a few spot welds along the B pillar that can't be welded using a spot welder. They are near the top of the door jam.
Hope that helps,
Derek

Yes he is a professional body guy and I have been a pain with lots of questions, hesitations and delays for decisions. I am worried about the seriousness and the extent of this job. In this case his suggestion was a MIG weld , but I (in my ignorance) was hoping to spot weld all seams for the least colateral damage - especially seeding future rust problems

Thanks again for the continued assistance. Based on all understanding to this point I won't be buying the pieces. I'll place full trust in him and let him shape a repair patch.

More photos re: rust...

Rusted wheel house panel... Ick! Notice the dirt clod lookin thing I found inside the frame rail. It looks like it was made by Bees/Wasps and is made from dirt... how'd that get in there??? I found another one inside the rear shock support tube. I had to cut it open to remove the mess!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265933634.jpg

Prepped and ready for some fresh metal
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265933968.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265934013.jpg

Here's the new (used) panel ready for install
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265934161.jpg

The replacement panel has been welded in and the body is back on the rotisserie. I have to bump (I think that's the lingo) a small piece that the donor car was missing so I'll post some photos of it all when it's finished.

Derek great thread. How difficult was it to replace the fender support in picture #1? Once you drilled out the spot welds how did you trial fit to make sure it fit?