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The project 911R something...
Hi all, SmileWavy
My name is Derek and I'm fairly new to this site. I've purchased someone else's project car. It's a 1978 Euro SC, no sunroof coupe, that was imported to the US back in 1984. The plan is to use M.A. Shaw Narrow RSR front bumper (The one w/the splitter) Rear RS bumper for SC flairs and a duck tail. At this point, I'm doing some rust repair prior to having the whole car media blasted. Some was completed by the PO. When I got the car, it came already mounted on a homemade rotisserie and boxes and boxes of parts. Like some others on this site, I'm a better grinder than welder... If you sub to this thread, be prepared for about a year or so. The immediate goal is to have the car painted by this time next year. :D Suggestions, advice, comments are welcome. Enjoy! The car http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2288.jpg Typical rust area repaired! http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2291.jpg Getting the jam to match up with the door requires lots of patience... the original part might help too. On to the passenger side. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2293.jpg |
Looking good Derek, a nice first 911 project. What color is she going to be?
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I've always wanted a black one... I'm toying with a creamy yellow... like this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256328919.jpg or black like this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256328966.jpg |
The following pictures tell the story of how I spent my two week vacation. I didn't work on it every day but at least every other day. Some things are more time consuming than others. Things don't always go as planned. All of the work being performed is in order to erradicate the cancer and prepare the car for the media blaster dude.
This one took awhile... rusted panel around oil tank replaced! http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2635.jpg A bit of rust repair on the right rear quarter and trimming of the jack receiver. You can kinda see the nuts I welded on for the installation of the oil lines. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2636.jpg Passenger side door striker plate now welded in place. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2637.jpg Antenna hole... gone! Found some bondo on the fenders I bought, ugh! http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2638.jpg Another patch repair made. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2640.jpg And finally the last panel to be replaced. It may not look bad but it's rusted badly from the other side. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/IMG_2642.jpg |
Subscribed.
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I found more rust... the worst yet. The heavy duty bracket that the rear bumper mounts to (drivers side) is beyond repair and needs to be replaced. You can see the bracket in question in the previous picture before I cut into it. Unfortunately the rust has found it's way into the frame rail. I can get a couple of the parts needed new, but if anyone has that rear bracket, let me know. I need it!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264281133.jpg |
Hi
If you're planning on using a RS style rear, I'm pretty sure you won't need that bracket - certainly earlier cars don't have it all. |
Fishcop, I thought about that, but then I'd have to go and do the same thing to the other side to make it even. Also, it's considered a reinforcement... I think I'll go ahead and do it the right way.
Today, I got out the heat gun for some fun with that tar like crap on the floor pan... weighed it when I was done to. 14 lbs. is what the trusty bathroom scale came up with. I'm sure there's a thread on weights but I thought I'd post this here. I will be putting some sound dampening materials back in the car but hopefully when all is said and done, it will be a net loss of some significance. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549265.jpg |
Smugglers box repair made. The bottom, inside of the box, was very rusty No doubt from 32 years of spray from the tires, entering through the vents in the wheel well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549532.jpg Repair made to the passenger side wheel well. The rust seems endless on this car... :p http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264549635.jpg |
I think this just might have to be the body color... instead of black!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264550233.jpg |
Help with the door striker plate please ?
Hi Derek.
I'm Christos. I'm fairly new here too. I bought a 912 targa recently and have very similar issues, located mainly at the door sills, behind the weather seals at the trailing edge of the door. My door sill rust issue Since you spent plenty of time on this car on your own you must be very familiar , at this point. If you would please help me resolve an issue: At the lock side, back of the door casing (at the rear pillar), three panels join along the vertical seam. 1) outer most, the fender including an "endcap" at the door sill. You show this clearly at your photos calling it the door striker plate. This plate is also distributed separately from the fender as a replacement part. 2) at the middle, the - side panel, wheel housing 3) inner most, the rear bulkead *in the case of the coupe this piece is not a bulkhead but a simple profile - on the targa it is a sheet triangular that is welded all the way to the back of the cabin, I assume for extra reinforcement. Now there are differences between the coupe and the targa - which I have. But according to catalog both take the same striker plate. My question is about the form of the edge of the striker plate to the wheel housing - see my sketch - A) is it angled ? B) does it form a U-channel where the rubber seal is embedded ( or is this fold on the wheel housing?) C) is it straight edged sheet? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265741052.jpg |
Part no. for the striker plate?
It looks in your photos that the part nos are
591048 for the (R) passenger side and 591047 for the (L) driver side But this is not Porsche catalog format eg 911-502-042-03 (R) 911-502-041-03 (L) |
I'll be brief as I'm off to work for 12 or so hrs.
If I'm understanding you correctly, and I think I am, the panel meets the "b pillar?" as you have depicted in your diagram "A" (angled) It is spot welded (as is most everything on these cars) to the pillar. Simply drill them out to remove the panel. The welds between the rear 1/4 and the "panel" are easier to see and drill out from the wheelhouse side. Also, on my car, there is a joint at the bottom corner of the door that the factory leaded in. (see my pics) Heat up the area with a propane torch and the lead will melt away to reveal the joint. If you have more ?'s, I'll help as best I can. Derek |
And yes, the parts are NON-Porsche repros. They came with the car when I bought it. Do you need the part nos.? Supplier? I have the receipt... somewhere.
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Found it , it's aftermarket by Dansk
It is from a company called Dansk, in Denmark
Many-many thanks Derek, I owe you one http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265883205.jpg |
? Spotwelding the outer stricker plate seam to fender panel ?
Derek one more question please,
How do you spotweld the stricker plate to the rear 1/4 along the fender outer edge? (Not the 3 ply seam in the middle) You have access from the door sill on the one side and the wheel well on the other. It seems you can't apply a pincher there - so says my shop technician. His electro-spot-welding gear is like a pincher and is applied as a clamp. You can't fit tongs around the fender wheelhouse, is there other equipment? |
I don't even have a spot welder. I use a mig for everything. I'm hoping your shop technician is a body guy. If not, you may want to take it to someone qualified to do this. There is quite a bit of trimming to be done on the new piece to get it to fit properly. If it's not done correctly, the door gap will be off and the 1/4 panel curve (profile) won't be right.
That said, the flange for the new panel fits in behind the quarter panel. So, once the spot welds have been drilled out and the new panel fitted, the spot's can be filled from the jam side with a mig welder. In places where the new panel would not quite draw tight to the quarter panel, I drlled a small hole through both panels and used a sheet metal screw to close up the gap. After welding, the screw can be removed and the hole filled with the mig. After all that, the welds are then ground flat. Also there are a few spot welds along the B pillar that can't be welded using a spot welder. They are near the top of the door jam. Hope that helps, Derek |
Yes he is a professional body guy and I have been a pain with lots of questions, hesitations and delays for decisions. I am worried about the seriousness and the extent of this job. In this case his suggestion was a MIG weld , but I (in my ignorance) was hoping to spot weld all seams for the least colateral damage - especially seeding future rust problems
Thanks again for the continued assistance. Based on all understanding to this point I won't be buying the pieces. I'll place full trust in him and let him shape a repair patch. |
More photos re: rust...
Rusted wheel house panel... Ick! Notice the dirt clod lookin thing I found inside the frame rail. It looks like it was made by Bees/Wasps and is made from dirt... how'd that get in there??? I found another one inside the rear shock support tube. I had to cut it open to remove the mess! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265933634.jpg Prepped and ready for some fresh metal http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265933968.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265934013.jpg Here's the new (used) panel ready for install http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265934161.jpg The replacement panel has been welded in and the body is back on the rotisserie. I have to bump (I think that's the lingo) a small piece that the donor car was missing so I'll post some photos of it all when it's finished. |
Derek great thread. How difficult was it to replace the fender support in picture #1? Once you drilled out the spot welds how did you trial fit to make sure it fit?
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78-911SC,
If you are referring to the door jam, it was somewhat difficult. What I did is hang the the door after I thought I had things close. As far as trial fitting there was a LOT of back and forth between clamping it in place to check fitment and the bench grinder. Once I got it how I wanted, I clamped it in place and made a few strategic welds and rechecked the door alignment just to be sure. Then it was just weld and grind. The piece in the most recent post was surprisingly easy. Since there was only one edge to butt, once prepped, (prep took way longer than fitting) it was really only one trial fit (a tap here and there with a big hammer to get it lined up) to mark the cut for the butt weld. I got it right the first time so no big deal. |
Not exactly. I was referring to the piece in the first picture of your post. The black piece just after the gray wheel well. The fender mounts to it just before the door opening. I'm getting ready to do mine and not sure how you got it exact. Thanks
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Oh yes,
The previous owner did that. Not sure what he did but... I would use a sharpie to mark the metal on both sides of the old panel before you remove it. That way you have a point of reference. BTW, there really is no such thing as exact. When you get to the point of putting your fender back on, you can make adjustments with washers as spacers where the screws are. If need be, you can pull or bend it the other direction. When you go to weld the new panel, you can weld the drilled holes from inside the car. I'm sure you figured that out by now. To get the panel to stay in place, you can tack it from the outside. Also you can drill some small holes and use sheet metal screws to suck it up to the body more while you weld. The new panel may need a little help from a hammer too.:D Like I said, nothing is perfect on these cars (except the engine of course) Don't be afraid to cut and grind a little if necessary. Good Luck, Derek |
Pictured is the new wheel house/bumper bracket welded in. Circled in red is the piece I had to make... it doesn't look like much but it took some time to make using different hammers and a little heat from the torch.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266013230.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266013263.jpg Ah Jees, more friggin rust. This isn't the best place to find it either. Luckily it was just a small spot. Notice the strip I cut and welded back up. That was so my mirror would fit inside to check for more but there was none. Whew! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266013651.jpg |
I can hardly believe it but I think I'm done with the rust repairs. I have a few more house keeping type things to do before it goes to the media blaster. I won't know what to do with my spare time now... anyway I will be switching gears, so-to-speak, to get ready for epoxy primer and body work. By just a quick look at the car, you really wouldn't know how much work has been done being as it looks basically the same as when I brought it home. Needless to say I'm very anxious to have it all cleaned up and back to one color... and minus the rust!
Here's something only slightly more interesting than panel repair. I welded the holes closed that were left by the overweight factory flag mirrors and did a trial fit of my new Talbot mirror. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266452160.jpg |
Holy crap, this is awesome stuff. You've gotten a lot done in a pretty short stretch of time, my friend. And props to your welding skills. Way better than I can do. Plus I don't have a welder, which is a big help when you're trying to weld.
Sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread, but when's the big date with the blaster? Also, call me a traditionalist, but I'm not so sure about the mirrors. :rolleyes: I have to admit I love the 70s/80s chic of the rectangle flags. Though I suppose you're going way retro, so... You mentioned offline you are getting some Yellow Bird bumpers - which I think rock and I've considered getting some too - so maybe you should try to track down one of these to complete the YB look: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268108349.jpg The passenger door is sans mirror. Shaved, if you will. ;) |
No date with the blaster yet. I've spoken to the owner (Master Blaster) a couple times. I am ready for it except for the oil cooler duct I mentioned. I need to wait till probably May for temp reasons. The primer needs mid 50's, which we are getting now but only during the day for a couple hours. I want to shoot it as soon after as possible to avoid any flash rust. I'm turning my garage into a giant spray booth. :rolleyes: Neighbors have been warned :)
I'm with you on the mirror and I lost some sleep (weird) trying to figure out what to do with it. I even thought about the longhood option for awhile. The PO gave me some of those (935?) mirrors with the car but the quality just wasn't there so I sold em'. I'm not sure how it's all going to tie together but yes, a bit of a retro look, I even got some (gulp) chrome H4 sugar scoops. So it's going to be a sort of American style hotrod, retro thing of sorts. I expect there will be some who don't approve but like I said, I'm not trying to copy any particular model. Thanks for the welding props. I tell you, those auto darkening welding shields can make anyone a decent welder. Here's a photo of the bumper I ordered: I hope Ed doesn't mind. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268113458.jpg |
That is awesome. I dig the YB bumpers. They sure save can save some weight too. Just the bumper shocks for the accordions are like 50lbs for all 4 corners.
And if you've got visions of track days in your future (and I hope you do), the brake ducts might be more useful than fogs. I have 993 air scoops on my lower control arms and they make a pretty significant difference at the track. Between those and using Motul fluid I've pretty much eliminated my brake heat issues, even at Pacific Raceways which is hell on brakes. And the scoops have to be the cheapest Porsche part ever at less than 15 bones each. They would probably work even better if I installed the hub block-off plates that I have had in my parts bins for the last 3 years. :) That reminds me, not to put the cart too far in front of the horse, but did you figure out your plans the motor? |
You car is looking great. Well done on the rust repairs.
Viper Green??? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268198437.jpg |
Oh Boy... I had another brain hemorrhage and switched my order to my original bumper choice of the IROC RSR style for the SC flairs of course. I just couldn't see the car with all of the bright work of an early car and the bumpers of a car some 12 years newer. It should be more period correct this way.
I would def. be interested in a track day once it's all said and done. I'll most likely need to head over the hill since the measily track we have here, well, can you say S U C K S? On an update note: I dropped off my metal grill for polishing yesterday (ouch) and started the install of the front oil cooler ducting. I just want to say this about that... I got the duct that TRE makes from Elephant and I must say if you're thinking of doing this, just make your own... It really doesn't fit. For starters it's 27" wide. The widest Setrab you can get is 22.5" Basically, by the time you get it installed you'll have made your own. I'll post some pics when done. (Maybe on an earlier car it fits better?) Thanks for all the cuddos on the welds. I've done so much now it seems almost easy. (I just bought a new weld helmet from, gulp, Harbor Freight and I have to say, I like it better than the $200 one my neighbor let me use for most of the winter... and the best part is, it was only $40! As far as the motor goes... my dream machine is gonna have to be either a 3.0 or 3.2 with SSI's, PMO carbs, Cams, JE's and possibly twin plugs along with hike in compression and bore size. Like I said though, "dream" Reality may take hold, we'll see. Seriously though, we're talkin a couple years here at least. This WILL be ready for paint this fall for sure... I have all the stuff for that. The paint is gonna cost me so it might have to wait til' spring of next year. I'm doing it myself but need a new gun for the base and clear and I want to take my time with the primer coats. Oh, and I have to work too. :) I am still married... so far. |
Well, it's still going to be cool no matter what you're choice of bumpers. Plus, I totally agree on going consistent in terms of period on a car. The Frankenporsches just never seem right, and from what I have seen, never sell either when it's time to move on to something else.
I'll be eagerly watching your progress. P.S. I have some other news too, I'll send you a message offline. |
OK Troy, I hope it's the good kind.
Todays progress: I got the oil cooler duct welded in. I still need to weld in some sort of tube in front and some mounting brackets for the cooler. The tube is for strength. I'm not sure its needed but there is a tube (sheet metal welded together creating a hollow section) in the very front of the tub that had to be cut in order to fit the duct. I will source some tubing and weld it between the front corners of the duct. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268257506.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268257587.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268257625.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268257660.jpg |
Final Oil Cooler setup (Gaaaad I hope I did it right!) :p
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268343362.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268343398.jpg |
This is more paint that bodywork. Here is a hand painted center cap for my wheels. It hasn't been clear coated yet but you get the idea. I'll put up a photo of the wheels when they are done.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269375310.jpg |
Here's what I've been working on while I wait for the weather to improve... drum roll...
I'm kinda breaking the mold here with these wheels but I like em! Here's what I started with, ugh! The one in front is after 2 hrs of cleaning and sanding! :eek: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270754342.jpg Those of you that have done this know what I mean when I say "never again!" This took many, many hours to complete... I'm glad they're finished. The center caps are hand painted by yours truly using automotive base coat paint (I have LOTS left over if anyone wants to try their hand) and finished off with a clear coat. Each cap took me about 3 hrs each. I would estimate I have about 8 hrs in each wheel spread out over several days/weeks. Enjoy! :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270754892.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270754977.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270755007.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270755046.jpg |
Updates coming soon... the tub, fenders, and doors were delivered to the media blaster Today! I also have the new IROC style front and rear bumpers for narrow (SC flared) body cars on hand. I have decided to go with OE sport seats and have taken delivery of a set... very nice, I must say. I swear the theme song from Ferris Buelers Day Off started playing when I sat in them, even though they need some new skins. Oh yes, I almost forgot, I got my earlier metal engine grill back from the polisher dude. It looks OK too.
I'll take some photos next week when the car comes home. |
Hey guys... it's back from the blaster dude! All one color now... finally!!!
I've got some undercoating to remove here and there and some more metal repairs to make as you can see from the pictures. Now that I've got a better look at what the PO did (POR15) in regards to some patchwork repairs (front end) I've decided to source some good metal from a donor and replace the upper longitudinals near where the fenders mount and including the front bumper mounts. As you can see from the pics, there are some very thin areas and a few holes. Overall it turned out great and didn't break the bank. One thing to note... blasting with plastic does NOT remove the factory galvanizing. I was told it would but not true. Using sand can but not if you are careful. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272126120.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272126160.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272126200.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272126238.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272126301.jpg |
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that's one hell of a project you've got there Derek! Glad to see it come together and that parts of my parts car continue to live on to save others ;)
great metalworking skills as well! |
Thanks Jeff,
As I stated in my last email to you after you sent parts. I FOUND MORE RUST! I was blowing out the rockers (inner and outer) with air and because that media crap is so tough to get out, I decided to cut a couple flaps on either end and to my dismay, I found some (alot) of rust around the drivers side torsion tube. There are 3 layers of metal welded around it... 2 outer and one hidden inside. It was this hidden inside piece that was worst. Lucky I found it now though. Interestingly, the pass. side of this car is basically rust free. Weird! Here are some pics after the rusted metal was removed and repairs under way. It looks somewhat sloppy but I had to fab it together by hand. I also had to cut some of the rear seat out to access the mess I must say it's coming together nicely and looks factory. I'll post some photos when it's completed. Notice the sway bar mount had to be removed as well. Yikes! These pictures show the inner most sheet metal being welded in. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272463074.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272463123.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272463162.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272463200.jpg |
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