Transmission not dropping with engine

[Street_Lethal69]

Hi Ladies and Gentlemen,

I need your help!

I recently performed an engine drop on my 1976 911S Targa and it went very smoothly, did it in about 3/4 hours. I did all the maintenance I needed to do and popped the engine back in. It's worth noting I just took the engine out, not the transmission.

Now, when I put the engine back in, I didn't get the throwout bearing and fork aligned so painfully I've had to pull the engine and transmission apart again. The problem I have now is that the transmission will not come down with the engine when I lower it. Causing the horrifying picture below. Any ideas what is keeping then transmission from lowering like it usually did?

I've also posted a picture of the transmission position after i lowered it the first time.

Many thanks,

[76FJ55]

did you disconnect the shift coupler inside the tunnel? I believe it should be removed to ensure it doesn't get caught on the body and potentially bend the shift shaft. In the lower picture is there a stand under the transmission or is it self supported off the body and CV shafts?

[75 911s]

Yikes. That bottom trans stud is a banana. It's not going to slide out. Best to raise the engine and carefully lower the entire assembly trans and engine together. Then deal with separating the two on the floor.

As a side note, there's a rusty hole in your heat exchange snout. If you use heat, you could get harmful exhaust in the cabin. They should be replaced if you use heat at all.

[Mike Andrew]

I would bite the bullet and drop the trans as suggested. Check and replace any bent studs and reinstall as a unit. Order some new bolts for the CV's and schnorr washers.
Good luck.

[Brian911T]

Definitely drop the trans. Its a pain to put engine and trans back together out of the car, so I can only imagine doing it with the trans installed. Here is a list of items that need to to be done to remove the trans. I used a large platform that had room to hold both engine and trans connected. Not sure what you used to lower engine but a sturdy platform on casters works good. Just make sure engine is level/shimed with blocks when lowering. Use a 2nd jack on the trans and align the wheels on the jack so everything can move front to back so you can roll it a bit to clear trans shift rod from tunnel. With trans partially mounted to motor I would also make sure you have help holding it stable when lowering. You don't want the trans/engine to come apart at a bad time and get damaged since they are not bolted together .

• Remove Swaybar
  
• Disconnect Throttle rod and remove
  
• Disconnect Axles at Transmission (Use a cord/rope to tie them to the top of the shock mount the prevent CV boots from splitting)
  
• Disconnect Leads to Starter
  
• Disconnect Back up Switch Wires on Transmission
  
• Disconnect Transmission Ground Strap
  
• Speed Cable/Sender wire from Transmission
  
• Disconnect Clutch Cable
  
• Remove Clutch Levers and Omega Spring
  
• Remove Transmission Mount Bolts
  
• Verify I didn't miss anything
  

[Flat6pac]

Need to drop the Sway bar out of the way, ground strap to chassis remove.
Bruce

[DRACO A5OG]

+1 that stud is toast, hope it did not deform the engine case end. Geez. Is the clutch arm removed?

[Street_Lethal69]

Thanks for all your responses. Miraculously, the transmission eventually decided to come down and have managed to remove the engine. The studs are not looking pretty, any suggestions on how best to remove them from the engine case? I've blasted them with PB but feel its gonna take more than that!

P.S yes, clutch arm has been removed.

Thanks!

[Dpmulvan]

You'll have to use heat, try map gas first. You can use a stud extractor, vice grips or a small pipe wrench. Take your time and don't force the issue or you'll be dropping the tranny and searching for an EDM or tig welder.

[Elombard]

Things I have learned afer wrenching on old cars for many years.

As suggested above, if the double nut does not work (never had much luck with that) get a stud extractor.

heat the case where the threads are a bit

dont go crazy twisting the stud out - if you break it off flush - its going to be a night mare.

Nice even pressure - not too hard, its going to move or its not.

If it does not move cut the stud off 1/2 inch from the case and use a set of drill sleeves to drill it it out with progressively larger bits. The sleeves slide over the stud and center the drill bit so you dont drill into the case.

Its one of those things. "easy" with the correct tools. NIghtmare otherwise.

shopping list

Map gas torch set up (home depot)
Stud extractor - on line or harbor freight - local auto parts might have one
drill sleeve kit - on line

If you have all of the tools you wont need them

[DRACO A5OG]

+1 must use Heat or you will take aluminum with the stud, ask me how I know.

Buy or Borrow a Stud Extractor



Note for all you must separate the gear box and engine in a straight line.

[pmax]

I would to offer another suggestion .....

take it to a pro.

This is not your regular iron case. It's congealed butter magnesium and if I were the OP, I will gladly pay someone who has done this before when it comes to removing studs without causing further possibly permanent damage.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

+1 must use Heat or you will take aluminum with the stud, ask me how I know.

Buy or Borrow a Stud Extractor



Note for all you must separate the gear box and engine in a straight line.

Like the advice. Can this be done with the car close to the ground and then raise the car after separation to get the engine out under the bumper? Obvious a perfect straight line is not required.

['76 911S 3.0]

Off topic, sorry, but is your paint code L944 by chance? All signs (year and color) appear to me that you own a Signature Edition 911.

[911pcars]

Just to be clear. As you've discovered, separating the engine from the still-in-car gearbox is relatively easy. Not so much when reinstalling. Both must be in perfect alignment to mate them up properly.

Better to reassemble gearbox to engine to reinstall.

Consult the numerous threads on R&R drivetrain to make sure you're covered and to avoid unnecessary damage.

Sherwood

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Just to be clear. As you've discovered, separating the engine from the still-in-car gearbox is relatively easy. Not so much when reinstalling. Both must be in perfect alignment to mate them up properly.

Better to reassemble gearbox to engine to reinstall.

Consult the numerous threads on R&R drivetrain to make sure you're covered and to avoid unnecessary damage.

Sherwood

Perfect alignment? I guess the protractor needs to measure angles to 0.0001 degrees? LOL.

I guess if I can’t align it with a transmission jack as done via John Walkers workshop, I’ll be dropping the transmission. Thinking I can get them aligned. Waiting for cooler weather though.

Seems just the engine only is easier if the tranny and engine can be aligned on install. The angle at the face plates can be matched. The side to side might be a we bit of a challenge with the floor jack wheels.

I’ll be posting my results with pictures though