New control arms, what else?

[suckho]

I searched for control arms replacement and found many threads about that, seems to be doable. But I am still wondering what else should be replaced while in there..

So I will be replacing both control arms (91134190101 and 91134190201) to my 911 SC 1982. I will also get new lower ball joints (2x 91134104905) and sway bar bushings (4x 91134379203). Do I absolutely *need* something else? Control arm bushings come with new arms. How about torsion bar foam bushings (90134147500)?

Or is there something else that should be replaced when control arms are out?

I have quite new bilstein shocks and lemförder turbo tie rods so those things are already in shape.

If I install new ball joints to new control arms I dont have to remove old ones at all, right?

https://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-911-1984-1989/front-suspension.html

[mb911]

I would ask why are you getting new control arms? They don't wear out.. I would also suggest that you get the new nuts for the ball joints.

Here is my control arms restored.

[suckho]

Because the sway bar mounting broke off probably due to corrosion in welding seam. New control arms with bushings are not that expensive so repairing old ones may not be worth it..

[mb911]

I know Dansk makes the new control arms but have also heard that they have had sub par quality..

The factory arms are very robust.. I would think the weld just broke from fatigue in that spot and could easily be rewelded..

Sorry I speak to this only becuase I am a fix everything I can personality.

[suckho]

Originally Posted by mb911

I know Dansk makes the new control arms but have also heard that they have had sub par quality..

FVD.de sells control arms with the following description:
"New high-quality OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) replacement that includes bushings. We source this part in Germany to ensure quality, reliability and precise fitment."
https://www.fvd.net/de-en/91134190101/front-control-arm-911-1974-89-new-left.html

I dont think these are the Dansk ones..

Originally Posted by mb911

The factory arms are very robust.. I would think the weld just broke from fatigue in that spot and could easily be rewelded..

Sorry I speak to this only becuase I am a fix everything I can personality.

I understand. I think the old ones would require sand blasting, some welding, painting, new bushings, etc.. Quite a lot of work to do and not free either.

[mb911]

For that kind of money your probably on the right track.. Is that about $250 USD per side? For all the hassle to restore I will retract my statement..

[steely]

Consider new items 9, 10, 13, & 14.

I had my control arms powder coated which included sand blasting, and the cost was very reasonable - but I cannot get over that low price for an item that is normally >$1000 usd.

[suckho]

9, 10, 13, 14 were on my list already, and 30 as well. No need to replace 24?

[seafeye]

And 15,30

[suckho]

Yes, #15 torsion bar cover, thanks. Can I reuse 24?

[Ayles]

Elephant racing sells a Ball Joint hardware kit.

https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/ball-joints-for-911/#ball-joint-hardware-kit

[HaroldMHedge]

Besides what has already been discussed, I would inspect the top strut mount, Item 7, and replace if required. You can replace the rubber with Elephant Racing or Rennline parts OR replace the whole assembly.

Pelican Parts Front Strut Mount Search

Elephant Racing Strut Top Camber Plate Bushings

I used the Elephant Racing rubber bushings when rebuilding my SC suspension.

[suckho]

Thanks. I replaced shocks couple of years ago including those top bushings. No need to check them now.

[seafeye]

24 might get damaged getting taken out. You’ve gone this far....

[Ayles]

Originally Posted by seafeye

24 might get damaged getting taken out. You’ve gone this far....

Might

[DRACO A5OG]

OP,

#24, if you do not mushroom the threaded side of that pin it can be reused. Just sacrifice the old nut. Take the nut out to the edge of the thread, spray some break free and pound away.

Take a close look at your T-bars for wear and the aluminum cross member where the caps #31 sit.

Break a Leg.

+1 Dansk quality is very poor on the control arms. If you do get them, make sure the mounting holes line up. I had to modify the d-side because it was too long. Relocated the holes and welded up the gap.

[steely]

I wasn't going to suggest #24 because of the good things mentioned above, but if you get new ones, make sure they are a perfect fit - there are 2 variations with the same part number - the difference is ever so slight. My new ones did not fit - here is a pic for comparison.

As Draco mentioned - Inspect the torsion bars for potential chafing where the Bushing may have flattened enough so as to cause metal on metal. You might need to make a decision on new ones, but you may be fine - I only mention this because you're into the planning mode. (I forget if you mentioned these or not.)

[mepstein]

Also get the correct socket for #12. With an impact wrench it makes it super easy to remove and reinstall.

[jjeffries]

^^ For this tool, look up JimmyT here on Pelican. He's a fabricator and tool maker in San Diego who makes an improved reproduction of the factory tool and sells it for a very reaaonable price. How better? Stronger stainless alloy, and reliefs added for some of the frayed edges the balljoint nuts have often incurred. I bought one and it's a beauty. John/CT

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

^^ For this tool, look up JimmyT here on Pelican. He's a fabricator and tool maker in San Diego who makes an improved reproduction of the factory tool and sells it for a very reaaonable price. How better? Stronger stainless alloy, and reliefs added for some of the frayed edges the balljoint nuts have often incurred. I bought one and it's a beauty. John/CT

Thanks for the info. I'll look it up. Mine is a basic one. It works but as I do more work on my own cars, I'm learning the value of good tools.