3.2 Carrera - what to do's for reliability?

[davidpsalt]

I searched but could not find a thread on this subject so I am starting this thread.

I have an 85 Carrera with just over 100,000 miles and I am going through it to make it very reliable - not that it isn't now, just want to be proactive.

Please add your thoughts on items that should be address for the 3.2L engine. Here is what I have so far:

• Replace Fan Belts
• Replace the two speed/ rev sensors
• Replace the Cyl Head Temp Sensor
• Valve adjustment

In advance - thanks for your input on anything else that I should address.

As an FYI - I have recently rebuilt the entire suspension - front and rear, rebuilt my axles/cv joints, changed all fluids, plugs, rotor, cap, have not changed out my plug wires as they appear ok. No misfires, etc.

Thanks!

[tmadden2]

For me, reliability is 50% preventing problems in the first place and 50% being able to sort the problems out that inevitably crop up anyway and still drive it home.

One of the things that has left me stranded is the DME relay. Not necessarily worth replacing ahead of time, but worth keeping a spare in the glovebox just in case.

Fuse up the recommended areas - dash lights, footwell blowers, etc. A small ground wiring fire put the car out of commission for a week.

For about $10 you can also replace all of the crusty fuses in the box with brand new ones. Throw a few extra in the glove box.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Fuel lines in the engine bay

[Ian Comerford]

I will add a very simple one, drive it often. These cars love to be used and do get better the more you use them.

[porschenut]

I agree with Ian, drive it regularly, and will also add the suggestion to work every electrical switch and knob in the car at least once a month, back and forth, in and out, etc. This helps to prevent corrosion and dirt from getting in the switch contacts, keeping them relatively clean and working. Don't forget the electric seat adjustment switches if your car has them. If a switch goes a long time without action, it can become inoperable, causing much head-scratching and unnecessary parts replacement. Keep a spray can or bottle of electrical contact cleaner handy to help clean finnicky switches. It's good for cleaning the fuse contacts on the fuse panel as well. But most definitely, drive it!

[Nick Triesch]

When you change out the fuses use German ceramic fuses .

[Nick Triesch]

What the heck are the two speed rev sensors?? I have an 85, never heard of this before.

[HaroldMHedge]

If the AC system has not been upgraded then get at least a Reliability Package from Griffiths. He makes excellent products. I've converted 2 cars to R134a using his products and both worked great.

Griffiths also makes fuel lines for the 3.2 which should be replaced due to age or if you run E10 fuel.

[gregwils]

I would agree with driving it often as the main point. However, I had a similar question after I purchased my car. I combed through various maintenance threads and assembled everything into one spreadsheet. Many people appreciated me sharing it, but it was also criticized by some suggesting the frequencies were too often. You should consider it a starting point for maintenance, download it as an .xlsx file and modify it to the frequencies that you believe are appropriate. We'll see if it gets flamed again.

Maintenance Plan

[davidpsalt]

Nick - the two sensors I mentioned are located just above the fly wheel and ring gear on the drivers side - you can look up where the trans meets the motor and see them. There is also a cyl head temp sensor - all three connectors are mounted on a bracket behind your heater blower motor on the left side of your motor as you look at with the deck lid open. I was recently installing new rear shocks and when I was reaching back to wrench down the bolt on the top of the shock, I hit the plastic connectors for one of the three sensors and it came apart due to how brittle the plastic is due to age and heat cycles. I ordered all three sensors as well as the connectors that will replace the side going to the DME. This is what started this thread - as in - "what else should I be replacing that may fail and leave me stranded.

Here is a good read about replacing the temp sensor - it also speaks to the RPM and Speed sensors - https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/6578-head-temperature-sensor-replacement.html

I had read about keeping a DME relay in the glove box - I drive my car as often as it can! And am replacing all the fuses and cleaning their contacts.

Fuel lines is a great idea - however a very reliable mechanic tells me that mine are the newer / better reinforced lines and I should be ok.

Keep the posts coming - I want to take care of this stuff now while I have time before the nice spring weather hits and the top is down!

[ibeaudoin]

Already some good advices in this thread.
I would add, if not already replaced since the car left the assembly line: Fuel pump and alternator

[Peter M]

Guys,
I think you are all over complicating things and wasting money. My suggestions are:
Drive regularly
Inspect regularly and respond to items that need attention without delay.
Spare DME relay in the glovebox
New spare fan belt in the frunk
Service once a year (assuming we are doing <10,000km/year)
Install a fuse in the front AC condenser blower circuit
Install fuses in the ashtray and Heater control illumination circuits
Change the tyres 6 yearly

Any more than that and you're fussing over nothing. :-)

[GH85Carrera]

I would check the fuel pump if you don't have maintenance records that is has been replaced. If it is 34 years old, and still running it may run for years, but I would bet it is tired. To replace it, it would not hurt to drive it until it is low on fuel, then just drain all the gas in the tank. Keep the old pump and send it back in to Bosch and have it rebuilt. It will come back as good or better than new.

Of course "while you are in there" look over the fuel lines from the pump. Last fall I had a leak, and it was the fuel line from the pump that goes over the steering rack, and ALL the way to the back of the car near the nose of the transmission. Contact Len on the board and he will sell you the proper replacement lines.

Oh and of course replace the fuel filter while it is all drained. That process is not an inexpensive process. Replacing the fuel lines is a pain in the butt with the engine in place. It can be done, but you will have to dig deep to find new cuss words to get through the process.

I did it it on mine. I have all new fuel pump and lines from the pump to the injectors.

I drive my 911. It has 169,000 miles on it now. I have driven it to well over 40 states, and Canada. Next year I plan to have a drive by of the monument that is the furthest point south in Key West.

Oh, get the solid state DME relay as well.

[911obgyn]

The only time I was stranded in my 85 was when the distributor rotor broke off in the cap because the bushings in the distributor wore out! Check the play on the shaft and put a bit of oil under the felt after you take the rotor off.

[davidpsalt]

911obgyn - good info - would never have considered that! How many miles did you have on it when that happened?

[Bitte ein Bit]

Originally Posted by ian comerford

i will add a very simple one, drive it often. These cars love to be used and do get better the more you use them.

+++...+1!

[ClickClickBoom]

Drive it, mine’s my daily driver. I do have the solid state DME relay. The car is anvil reliable.

For giggles:
3.2 Distributor Overhaul...

[Canada Kev]

Another note on the DME relay that might be a bit over the top, but might be worth the couple minutes it will take to do: take your new relay and actually install it and use that one and take the working unit and keep that as your spare. That way the spare one you have in the glove box is a known working one. The shiny new one is untested and the possibility is there that it might not work or fail shortly after installation.

[911obgyn]

Probably about 200-250k on original distributor. when I got the car odometer didn’t work and showed 150k. Been driving and maintaining for about 8 or 9 years now, still haven’t got around to fixing odometer so many deferred maintenance projects to do, and I drive it.
With the help of all the contributors here on pelican.

[famoroso]

So, I'm all about this approach. In fact, my mod path for each of my G Bodies is: reliability, drivability and then performance.

As mentioned, solid state DME relay. Then, you can sell your current one and save all that glovebox space that a spare would use up. :-) I run the pump prime unit in my '88 with Steve Wong ECU and the non pump prime unit in my '87 with full Sal Carceller MAF, modern injectors and ECU (his firmware has pump prime functionality built in)... 911 Solid-State Relay — Focus 9 Technology, LLC On top of dead nuts reliability on the unit itself, you get the added benefit of an audible tell that the fuel pump is operational every time you switch the ignition on.

Go through the car and clean up grounds, etc. with emery paper and / or a steel brush. I then put a light coat of Deoxit electrical contact cleaner on every electrical contact. I have a big spray can in the garage and a small travel spray can in the car. You can use it for everything, including stuff like this
"how-to" fix power seat switches......

More of a parts and labor commitment, but you could consider updating the front and rear fuse box panels to more modern blade type, like the ones from Classic Retrofit. At a minimum, go through all your existing fuses, clean the contacts, apply Deoxit and ensure good tension on the fuse box contacts.

Speaking of fuses, go through the car and add fuses as required... Added fuses & relays.

Also, add the $35 headlight relay kit (note that the update fuse panel kits include headlight relays onboard).

LED headlights and / or LEDs in all other positions, including the gauges (I have bright white in my '87 and classic white in my '88). Improved reliability, drivability, performance AND decreased current draw / load on the WW2 electrical system / 30+ year old wiring. Win / win / win / win! I recently did all the turn signal, brake, reverse, running lights on my '87. Not only did I replace all the relatively anemic incandescent bulbs, but Spokeworks LED boards don't rely on the original reflectors. Many of my reflectors weren't as reflective as they were originally due to water ingress, corrosion, etc.

Renew shift bushings (great time to add a JWest Rennshift while you're at it RennShift Performance Shifter - JWest Engineering

Updated / upgraded battery. Also, I pull the fuse for the circuit that the clock is on, to avoid that drain. I'm looking to install a battery cutoff switch.

I can come up with more, but this is a good start.