Engine Installation Sequence?

[mikl911]

The rubber engine bay seal should be done with the motor out. It's not that difficult to do. if yours is brittle and ugly do it now. Make sure you clean the channel out really well. Place the bottom of the new seal in the channel about 6 inches at a time and use a plastic trim tool to push the upper potion into the channel. I found that not using any "lube" actually made it easier. It takes a little effort and about 1/2 hour but it's not that bad.

[911 Rod]

^^^ Good advice.
I also shut off any sources of noise.
You can usually hear anything hitting.

[Jeff NJ]

I would definitely look closely at that rubber seal. Mine was dried and brittle in a few spots and would not seal well if left in. So I replaced it and i cant imagine actually doing it with the engine in, so be sure it is good now and replace first, if necessary.

I also replaced the foam pad at the front firewall and the foam in that gap between the shock crossmount and the firewall which is right below the foam pad. I think that is the one you are talking about. I found some dense foam on amazon that seemed it would hold up to heat better and used that. It seems to be fine a few years later. You can see the new rubber engine seal in these pics too.

[Jeff NJ]

Here is my list for my removal. i did the reverse for the install. Since mine is a turbo, some stuff doesnt apply to yours, but all the rest should be the same. If anyone wants to edit for clarity or for non-turbo's, have at it.

Disconnect battery
Removed IC
Removed AC
Removed air intake – disconnected three hoses
Drained oil
Removed oil tube from tank to cooler
Disconnected three electrical connectors on left side of engine
Disconnected two breather hoses on right side
Disconnected breather hose on left side
Disconnected 3 connectors for fuel on car side and two connectors on motor side
Removed fuel hose assy from CIS to filter/accumulator
Disconnected electrical plug behind motor
Disconnected large oil line across back of motor
Disconnect heat ducts
Disconnect starter cables
Disconnect reverse switch cable
Disconnect throttle linkage
Disconnect CVs from trans.
Disconnect speedo sensor over rt side CV
Disconnect clutch cable
Remove clutch arms, and springs
Remove sway bar
Removed 4 bolts and dropped the motor

[piscator]

I’m stopping for lunch after spending the morning rebuilding the pedal cluster – something else I wasn’t going to do!

The rubber engine compartment seal isn’t exactly dry or brittle, but it isn’t ‘new’ either. It’s often hard to judge these things. I’ve replaced a lot of rubber that I suspect others would be happy to use. But I may order another seal anyway. What’s one more ‘while your in there’ after the hundreds that went before?

Miki911, thanks for your detailed instructions!

Rod, you wrote: “^^^ Good advice.
I also shut off any sources of noise.
You can usually hear anything hitting.”

I’m pretty sure you mean that the rubber engine compartment seal shuts out noise, yes?

Jeff, thanks for your list and all the photos! There’s a company in my town that specializes in acoustic foam of all variety. I’ve met the owner, so I’ll see what he might suggest. Did you see my ‘pool noodle’ idea? Using my band-saw, I think I could cut the rounds off of two sides to get a perfect fit.

Anyone else have thoughts on the CV joints? There were no issues with the CV’s when the car was running and the rubber looks fine. Should I replace them anyway? And if I’m doing that, I might as well rebuild them. Yes? No?

Thanks again for your help!

[OldSpool87]

I did my CV work with engine in the car. I don’t think you gain a ton of efficiency by doing it with engine out. So no great opportunity missed if you postpone. Next time I do it I’ll buy new complete assemblies (half shaft plus 2 CVs already attached). You can’t really rebuild a CV joint cost effectively from my understanding.

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

^^^ Good advice.
I also shut off any sources of noise.
You can usually hear anything hitting.

I meant shutting off any sources of noise in your garage.
This way you can hear if anything is hitting while you lower the car. Saved my ass putting in the motor for my 996tt

[mikl911]

Originally Posted by piscator

The rubber engine compartment seal isn’t exactly dry or brittle, but it isn’t ‘new’ either. It’s often hard to judge these things. I’ve replaced a lot of rubber that I suspect others would be happy to use. But I may order another seal anyway. What’s one more ‘while your in there’ after the hundreds that went before?

Miki911, thanks for your detailed instructions!

Rod, you wrote: “^^^ Good advice.
I also shut off any sources of noise.
You can usually hear anything hitting.”


Anyone else have thoughts on the CV joints? There were no issues with the CV’s when the car was running and the rubber looks fine. Should I replace them anyway? And if I’m doing that, I might as well rebuild them. Yes? No?

Thanks again for your help!

You are welcome! I just did this in my 67 a week ago

Thank you 911 Rod

If you have any question of the condition of the CV Joints complete axle sets are now relatively cheap. I would just replace them and you will have piece of mind the bearings are good with nice new grease.

[piscator]

Good morning gents!

With appointments today I’ll only get a few hours in on the car. It’s frustrating to be held up when your on a roll! More frustrating is myself holding myself up!

Why is it that in a day’s time, I only finish about half of what I expect to? There’s always one more thing to paint, lubricate, or modify. Always a part, bolt, or tool that’s suddenly needs a search party to find. Or a change in direction that requires waiting for a part to arrive?

Yesterday, I got the pedal cluster nicely rebuilt and then remembered I had a brand new clutch pedal shaft in inventory. Gotta use the new part. So I disassembled the whole thing, installed the new shaft – and discovered the roll pin wouldn’t fit. A little metrology indicated the shaft hole was undersize. So, take it all apart, put it up on the drill press and drill out ½ a millimeter. Ooh, now here’s a chance to use that new adjustable reamer set… and by the time I’m finished the day is done!

I know that this kinda thing never happens to you guys, but for me – it’s part of the fun! (Most of the time.)

Rod, shutting out the noise of anything untoward is a really good idea. My shop is so quiet, I mistook what you meant. Thanks for clarifying.

Miki and OldSpool, excellent points! Sometimes I lose the forest for the trees. I’m so conditioned to astronomic Porsche part prices, that I didn’t even check the price of new CV joints. I just figured, “There’s another $1,000.” But at $250 a piece, I’ll buy new, now or later. As OldSpool says, now or later, probably doesn’t change the equation much.

Today I hope to close the tunnel up. The new fuel lines are in. So now I need to install the rebuilt pedal cluster, e-brake and seine shifter assembly.

I’m not a machinist or an expert on anything, but I used machinist tools to get over some hurdle in all three of those projects – graduated drills, reamers, taps, hand grinders, and deburring tools. I’m not sure how I could work on this car without them.

Reading numerous threads on these assemblies, I noticed that a number of Pelicans seem unfamiliar with machinist tools. I’m absolutely not being critical. I simply saw more than a couple of threads recommending something like, “put part A in the freezer and part B in the oven” – where a simple hand reamer would have made life easy.

I only mention this, thinking that someone may read this in the future and see an avenue to solve a particular problem.

As always, thanks so much for your help. Without you guys, I would see the trees when I need to or the forest when it was important!

Oh, I ordered the rubber engine compartment gasket, seal, whatever. It was under $100. I would not even have looked if you guys hadn’t prompted me!

Here's some photos of my pedal cluster and new short shifter.

I drilled and tapped the shaft of my 'short shifter' so the locking screw on the 917 style knob would go through the shaft and press against the opposite wall. I think this is more secure than the friction fit of the screws provided with the knob. The other securing screw, I left as a friction fit. Locktite on both and it works great.

The ID of the 917 knob collar was smaller than OD of the shifter shaft. I could have reduced the diameter of the shaft, but the collar has more meat on it, so I chose to bore it out slightly with an adjustable reamer.





H