Engine Installation Sequence?

[piscator]

Any tips on sequencing my first engine installation? Or, advice on things to double-check before starting?

My thought has been to install the engine before the shocks, brakes, cv joints, engine skirts, or heater hoses – thinking this will leave more room to work. If that’s not right, let me know!

There’s still some details to attend to before I install the motor in my 1979 SC (was sent two left side heater hose clamps and waiting for the right side to arrive) but I’m getting close. If there’s a ‘better/best’ way to do any of this, please chime in!

BTW, I tried a search on 'engine installation' and into page 6 of the query results, I didn't have any 'hits.' Maybe I don't know how to use the search function?!

[gomezoneill]

Install clutch, new pilot bearing, attach trans and install. I would do it before all the things you listed.

[piscator]

Thanks gomez! The clutch and pressure plate have about 25m miles on them. I wasn't planning on replacing them. Think I should?

[Driven97]

I haven't taken the car that far apart, but there's really no issue hoisting the engine & trans (as one unit) up as the last thing you do. I guess the CV joints are slightly in the way, but not enough to have much reason to hold out on installing them.

[juanbenae]

I usually roll the motor under the car with the thing up enough to get the it under the bumper & valence then with the motor & dolly in place lower the car back down as to not have to raise it so high for install.


if your 1st time it might not be a bad idea to have a second set of hands & eyes. even if just to steady things if the motor moves around any while balanced on the jack also, to pat you on the back when it's in place and have a beer ready when completed.

[Jeff NJ]

If you mean the engine tins around the motor when you say engine skirts, those would be a royal pain to install after the motor is in. Put those on along with the heater hoses before installing the motor. You want that to be as complete as possible going in. The rest of the stuff can be done with motor in or out, so no issue waiting until after for shocks, CV's, brakes, etc.

Do you have a checklist of stuff to reconnect? I made one before I started and edited as I went with the removal in the order that I did it and then did the reverse as I installed.
If you don't, I can post up what I used, but its a little different since I have a turbo, but still pretty close.

[Jeff NJ]

Here it was with tins and hoses installed prior to reinstallation of the motor.

[shadowjack1]

Install shocks before engine goes in.

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by shadowjack1

Install shocks before engine goes in.

can you elaborate as to why?

[Driven97]

Shock top nuts are much easier to reach without the motor there.

[OldSpool87]

Originally Posted by Jeff NJ

Here it was with tins and hoses installed prior to reinstallation of the motor.

Is that my air filter?

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Shock top nuts are much easier to reach without the motor there.

well played sir. It's been so many years I often forget how full the engine bay gets with CIS. im used to carbs and the accessibility they afford. if they are installed 1st you'd likely suggest tying them back and out of the way. both them and CV's dangling there can be a pain. this car appears to have the CV's removed, but I wire them up high and then when the motor/tranny gets elevated enough I drop them back down below the tranny and rewire them low as to not stress the boots if not new ones. tore one during one of my 1st installs with them at foo droop.

[Jeff NJ]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

Is that my air filter?

It most certainly is Will!

Works perfect!

[911 Rod]

I'm going through pretty much the same thing.
Everything that was attached to the motor when you pulled it should be on it before installing.
I'm working on my heater boxes and some other little things and they were much easier with the motor out. Not to mention the cleaning.
Doing the brake overhaul before putting the motor in just because.

[mike sampsel]

you are aware of the install u-tube video from your thread?
Certainly seems the shocks and CV joints are easier before the engine is in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAZm6SyTS1U

[piscator]

Thanks a lot fellas!

Driven, I have to admit that dangling cv joints annoy me! It probably doesn’t matter much, but I’ll take your advice and install them first. Also, I’ve never had a problem tightening the nuts on top of the shocks, but you and Shadow are probably right about that also – will do!

Juan, good tip on lowering the car. I don’t think my RV lift would go high enough to install the engine.

Jeff, the engine tins (what some guys call ‘pans’ ) will go on first. What I meant by ‘skirts’ are the rubber pieces that surround the inside of the engine bay; to keep the weather out. I’m not sure whether to replace them or not, but it might be hard to do with the engine installed.

I probably shouldn’t have mentioned the rubber skirts, since they’re not part of a normal engine in/out. They were on my mind and I wrote them down without thinking. Sorry for that confusion.

I do not have a ‘written check-list’ – but I think I’ve gotten to most everything. Still, if it’s not inconvenient I’d enjoy seeing yours. It might also be helpful as a future reference for others.

By the way, Jeff, that photo with the tail-lights illuminated makes it look like you’re about to, throw ‘er into reverse and back onto the engine! That’s pretty good driving, if you can hit the bolt holes dead nuts center!! :-)

Rod wrote: “Everything that was attached to the motor when you pulled it should be on it before installing.” – Well, Rod... pretty close… I’ve got everything except for the parts in that box labeled... ‘I wonder where this went?’... Just kidding! :-)

Mike, thanks for the reminder on the You-tube video. I’ve been using Craig D’s thread for reference and haven’t spent a lot of time with the video. I’ll look at it tonight. Here’s Craig’s thread

'78 SC Elephant Racing Suspension Rebuild

You guys have been wonderfully helpful. Based on your advice I’m going to change my tack and install the shocks and CV joints. I’ll do that while I wait for that right-side heater valve/hose clamp that’s holding everything up.

Today I visited my paint supplier and he mixed me up a rattle can of Glacier Blue Mettalic. I’ve been cleaning and touching up the engine compartment. A slow solvent, like toluene or paint thinner, seemed to work best on that tar-like gooey foam that clings to the inboard side of the torsion bar tube.

Working on that got me thinking on two questions:

1) Should I install new foam between the torsion bar tube and the cabin? Was the gooey-foam intended to keep the weather out of the engine compartment? I’ve done some nifty things with ‘pool noodles’ on my band-saw! What do you think of a custom cut pool noodle to seal that area?

2) Should I rebuild, re-grease, or do whatever one does, with my CV joints before I install them? They weren’t causing me any problems, so I was going to put them back into the car exactly as the came out. I haven’t had time to read up on CV joints and would appreciate a push in whichever direction I should be headed.

As always, you guys are great! I don’t know how I’d get these project done without your help!

Robert

[mike sampsel]

No on your CV joints “exactly as out”. They should be swapped from hub side to tranny side by rotating the axel 180 degrees. The swapping equalizes the wear on them. Not sure on the re-greasing question.

[piscator]

Mike, thanks! I've never heard that. That's very interesting !

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by piscator

1) Should I install new foam between the torsion bar tube and the cabin? Was the gooey-foam intended to keep the weather out of the engine compartment? I’ve done some nifty things with ‘pool noodles’ on my band-saw! What do you think of a custom cut pool noodle to seal that area?

When I had my engine out last time I removed the foam as well as the engine pad.

I found when I drove down my dusty laneway it created a vacuum and sucked a big cloud of dust into my engine bay with out them.

I have since installed the OEM foam and pad as well as a piece of pipe insulation. The pipe insulation is much more dense than a pool noodle and should last longer.

There is potentially lots of heat in the area so I'm not sure how the noodle would hold up.

[OsoMoore]

I reinserted my engine, with my wife's help, a few years back. We had the engine raised up a little bit off the ground, and lowered the car onto it.
Just take it slow. If something sticks, stop and figure out what it is. It will fit perfectly if you are doing it right, so don't force it if you get stuck. If you are tired or can't figure something out, take a break and come back later.

The moment when it started up afterwards was one of the biggest moments of excitement in all my Porsche work (up there with the home re-wired fuse box). Be sure to post pics!