Neatrix- Glue or Grease?

[Neilk]

Hi,

I will hopefully get my Neatrix bushings from Pelican tomorrow and put my rear suspension back together, but how?

I have read many different thoughts on installing the Neatrix bushings, some people glue them to the spring plates whereas others just grease them up really well and bolt everything together. Is one way better than the other? I know that Porsche vulcanized the bushings but what's the consensus on Neatrix bushings?

Thanks!

[marcesq]

Lightly greased, no problems

[SK]

I lightly greased mine as well. It has been a year and no problems here either.

[mm86911]

Lube 'em up and no problems - been in my car for over a year with no noise.

[bob hodges]

Neil,

I am wondering if you got the last set from our host. I am still waiting mine. Althogh I was told more are coming in and they will ship. How did you end up taken the old ones off?

[autobonrun]

What do you use for lubrication of the bushings. All I have in my garage is Swepco Moly 101 grease. Will this work or is it petroleum based and not suitable for rubber?

[Neilk]

Bob,

I've been waiting for a while as well. They were supposedly sent yesterday and hopefully I will get them tomorrow.

I followed Chuck Moreland's instructions which you can find in the Pelican Parts tech article area (or click here ).

Since I didn't have a vice, I used a c-clamp to hold my spring arm to my apartment balcony and started cutting it up like Chuck did. Wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. I sanded off what I couldn't cut off.

Auto, are there any instructions with the bushings? Are you going to glue them or just lube them up really well?

[Chuck Moreland]

Glue. The rubber bushings are meant to deform, not slide.

I've learned the (really) easy way to get these off. Use a torch to heat the spring plate tube from the inside, under the bushing. Heat until you see a fair amount of rubber smoke.

Then run a razor knife around the flat plate to free the rubber. With just a little poking with a screwdriver the bushing will come off in one piece.

Never use petroleum based grease. It will destroy the rubber in short order.

[billwagnon]

Is there anywhere to buy the 4-bolt plate that goes over the end of the swing arm at the torsion bar (I think it may be called a torsion bar cover).

Mine are lightly corroded on one side (inside) and should probably be replaced.

[ChrisBennet]

Pelican has them. Part # A-333-153-00 At only $15 each it isn't worth restoring old ones.
-Chris

[mm86911]

Chuck - does it really matter whether they are glued or lubricated?

I used a thick, silicone-based lubricant on both front a rear bushings (cut channels into front polys) and have zero noise for over a year now.

Only wish the Elephant front bronze bushings were available a year ago.

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally posted by mm86911
Chuck - does it really matter whether they are glued or lubricated?

I used a thick, silicone-based lubricant on both front a rear bushings (cut channels into front polys) and have zero noise for over a year now.

Only wish the Elephant front bronze bushings were available a year ago.

The product does ship with glue, so that tells you what the manufacturer thinks. Why they can't throw in a page of instructions to explain this stuff is beyond me.

I believe they will last longer if glued. With glue, there is no slippage therefor no wear. The rubber just deforms then bounces back like factory stuff.

If you opt to grease, Silicon is the way to go. However I find silicon grease doesn't last that long. In time you will end up with little-to-no lubrication since there is no provision for relubrication after installation [subtle plug on]unlike Elephant Racing bronze bearings which have built in grease fittings[/subtle plug]

[bob hodges]

What can be done to the spring plates to bring them back to orginal condition? Without sounding anal, I would like to clean them up prior to putting the new bushing on. I was thinking of bead blasting them clean them and painting, what is everyone's ideas and what has others done? I want to accomplish this using the tried and proven method, as I am not into looking for a new wheel design.

[Chuck Moreland]

I just sent out two pair of spring plates for zinc dichromate plating. It's a gold tone similar to the original cad plating. I'll have them back end of next week and will post some pictures for you.

That is your best option if you want something that looks factory.

[SK]

Bob, I did exactly what you wrote. They look great, and it was inexpensive.

[autobonrun]

I plan to follow what you guys are doing in an effort to replicate factory design. Parts that are molded together will be glued. Parts that look like they will rub together will be lubricated. I'll see if the Moly is petroleum based. If not, I'll use it, as it should stay in place longer.

[Neilk]

I have a couple more questions.

There was some surface rust where the bushings sit inside the torsion tube. I cleaned up the area with a wire brush and sanded down any high spots. Would it be ok to paint the newly exposed metal with POR-15?

I didn't order any silicone grease thinking I could get it locally. I have since found out that silicone grease is very hard to find. Short of ordering it from Pelican, what kind of stores carry it? Home Depot doesn't have it nor do any auto parts stores. I have some silicone spray, but that seems very temporary.

Thanks,

[Chuck Moreland]

NAPA carries silicone grease.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by Chuck Moreland
NAPA carries silicone grease.

The silicone grease NAPA carries is called "Sil-Glyde". It's often used for brake calipers.
-Chris

[bob hodges]

Chuck,

Where did you send them for plating and how much did it cost?