Texans: How's your A/C? Is it stock?

[efhughes3]

OK, I'm getting ready to take the plunge on the A/C. I'm at a crossroads however. I was ready to do the whole package: hoses, compressor, static condenser from Perf. Air. Today, I was going to take the existing condensers off to leak check and clean as I thought the system was empty, but I actually had pressure in the lines, much to my surprise. I stopped the process, as I'll have someone evacuate the system.

Now for the dilemna. After going to the Dallas Auto Show today, I'm considering another car purchase, so I may get a little cheap on the A/C project for now. I'm going to do hoses no matter what. I'm going to make a go of my existing compressor. I'm really on the fence about the static condenser for my basically weekend car. I know that that will most likely be the best way to go, but I'd just as soon delay this expenditure 'til next year if possible, which would help keep costs down in the next few months, as I also need to jump on the interior.

So, is anyone in Texas (or any other "hot" state) happy with their stock A/C system? I may do hoses only for now, and recharge in R-12.

[ewave]

I have stock AC on both my Porsches. It just barely gets me through the summers. Both my cars are white.

[ZOA NOM]

I'm in the Tri-Valley, east of the San Francisco Bay Area, where the summers routinely see 100+ temps. The stock A/C is useless. What has made it bearable for me is a good, light, reflective car cover. If the car sits in heat for any time at all, it stays with the car regardless of the color (although black interior must really bake!). In any event, keeping the car cool while it sits helps a lot.

[efhughes3]

Thanks for the feedback. I guess since I'm under there, I may as well carry through with the plan to add the static condenser! Just like anything else, it bears doing it correctly the first time.

[88911coupe]

Both of my cars had black interiors and really struggled if the car has sat in the sun for too long (I am in Dallas). I have upgraded to the Sanden comp on my 88 coupe and it is just passable. I really think the most effective upgrade would have to be the underbelly condensor, which I have been considering. I am wondering how effective this would be if the decklid cond. was removed. Either that or just add the underbelly one in line with the decklid one. Supposedly it is recommended to run the line from the cond to the underbelly, then BACK to the decklid cond then back upfront to the front cond. I'd like to see the quantfied benefit of doing that.
Let us know what you end up doing.

[CEO]

Hey guys, I am in Dallas and have seen the underbelly condensers done many times with great results. I work at Louden motorcars and we do these all the time and I see vent temps of around 34 degrees with R-12 with mid 90 outside temps. They have been fitted with new hoses and a 5708 Sanden compressor.
I have done something different to my car which is to add the C2 condenser in the front left bumper with the aux fan, because I have the C2 body on my car with the C2 deck lid and the SC condenser would not fit with the motor for the tail in back. So I have the original little one up front and then the C2 and nothing in back. And If i remember correctly I have 52 feet of new A/C barrier hose. I added 134A and see vent temps of around 40 degrees, I plan on putting R12 back in because it is more efficient and I was curious to see how cold I could get 134A. And it works very well. the vent kit at the bottom is a must for more air flow. I would also recommend replacing the Receiver drier and the expansion valve for good measure. If you have anymore questions please feel free to e-mail me.
Regards, Kenneth

[jmz]

air conditioning; we don't need no stinking air conditioning.

[SeaDweller]

The reason the refrigerant should be routed to the lid condenser later in the chain is to keep its temperature down, being that cooling air for the engine is drawn through it. The original system in my late '78SC had the lines routed first to a fan cooled, rear quarter mounted condenser, and then to the lid condensor.

I haven't looked over my current A/C system, but I'm fairly sure the lid condenser is first in the chain, which isn't the most ideal setup. You really don't need a significant amount of condenser area with R-12, but you do with R-134. I'm amazed at how many folks will tell you that R-134 is just as efficient as R-12; complete balderdash. R-134 in a 911 would definitely require an underbelly condenser to work effectively. If you don't believe me, look at the size of the condensers in modern cars that also have multiple fans cooling them.

R-12 is far and away the best choice for systems like that found in 911's, as it will still work effectively with somewhat limited condenser area.

[Craig Stevens]

The Tampa Bay area of Florida is HOT & HUMID 8 out of 12 months of the year, from May through October not having AC is not an option for me. I have been on a quest, for the past 2 years for cold AC in my SC. I believe that I have finally achieved that goal. First I blocked off the hoses going to the small side vents. then changed the compressor to a rotary, cost, $325. I then installed a new front condenser & blower motor, cost $408. Next, all existing hoses were removed & replaced with new. Finally Installed a static underbelly condenser from Scott's Hoses cost $390, & condenser cost was $395. I removed the existing condenser located in the engine compartment. Oh, almost forgot, I removed the bowtie on the under dash vent & replaced it with a bulkhead vent from Scott's cost $54. Installation of the new hoses, condensers, & R12 was a trade out with a friend who need some site work, so I cant estimate a cost for these items. The temp has only reached the mid 80ties so far this year, so the final test won't happen for another month or so. Right now vent temp at aprox 84 degree outside temp on third speed is 37 degrees using R12. Last week the car was parked out side for aprox 2 hr in direct sun, got in the car in heavy downtown traffic & the inside temp was comfortable with in 5 minutes. I then turned the fan down to the second speed & the inside temp remained comfortable!!! The last thing that I added to the system up grade was a new drier, & a high-low pressure switch on the compressor. The smile on my face is even wider than normal cruising with cool AC. Craig:

[rfuerst911sc]

This will be a interesting summer for my car,it will be the first Florida summer for my 83SC.The previous owner had installed a rotary compressor and the system still uses R12,I have fixed the fan so it now runs on all 3 speeds,plus today I spent about 2 hours removing rocks and other road debris from my hood mounted condensor plus straightening out the cooling fins,it seems to blow very cold.I also removed the bowtie vent cover,what a huge difference in air flow volume!!My car is quartz grey exterior with black interior,good luck to you southern drivers!!

[Jack Olsen]

I have pretty much the same setup as Craig Stevens, with great results.

(Except for those days when a pheasant gets lodged in my front condenser. )

[plain fan]

I ran a hose directly from the blower motor in the smuggler's box to the vent in the dash. Huge difference, I plan on dropping the engine cover mounted condensor in favor of the 964/993 driver side position w/ fan as well.
Seadweller is 100% right, you need quite a lot of airflow over a condensor using 134a for it to work. This also includes the fact that the heat around the engine area doesn't help the problem at all.
Here's another thing to consider if you have the driver side condensor mounted in the rear wheel well, the catalytic converter. It produces a huge amount of heat which no amount of fan can overcome. That is why I plan to go the 964/993 route. Still considering the belly pan condensor as well.