Brake bleeding tools?

[Geronimo]

Going to be fitting a new master cylinder to the SC and figured i'd pick up some tools to make life easier.

What have you found that makes life a lil easier?

[yelcab1]

Motive power bleeder.

[BK911]

I use this:

[Robey5]

Second on the motive power bleeder. However, you are going to need to “plug” the vent side on the master cylinder reservoir.

I am not sure exactly sure what BK911 does with that connection to an air compressor, perhaps he will expound so that .... we can perhaps make an annoying job more easy(???)

[BK911]

Hook the air compressor to the brake fluid reservoir vent opening with about 5 psi.
Works just like a motive, but only costs <$5.

[High Life]

Originally Posted by BK911

Hook the air compressor to the brake fluid reservoir vent opening with about 5 psi.
Works just like a motive, but only costs <$5.

Then do you just crack the bleed valve on the caliper (left rear, right rear, left front, right front) and wait for fresh fluid at each caliper?

Do you have someone watch the reservoir as your bleeding - or is there a trick for that?

[BK911]

I use a dump bottle that's smaller than the reservoir.
1. Set compressor to 5psi.
2. Connect hose to reservoir bleed.
3. Fill reservoir, close cap tightly.
4. Connect air quick connect.
5. Crack brake bleed.
6. Close brake bleed when dump bottle fills.
7. Disconnect quick connect fitting.
Repeat steps 3-7 until fresh fluid leaves each caliper.

If you're bleeding a dry system you need to pay attention to the reservoir level. I use a flashlight pressed against it.

[r-mm]

You can use the motive wet or dry with good and bad aspects to both.

Wet = full of fluid = no way to run dry (unless you go thru all the fluid in the Motive, duh). Downside is typically a bunch of wasted fluid and generally more handling of brake fluid, chances for spills etc. I do this for major flushes or first fills.

Dry = motive is only providing pressure. Chance to run dry but less mess if done right. I do this for "normal" bleeds.

Get a proper fluid line clamps for the over flow, don't damage it with vise grips etc. I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKHRUK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by High Life

Then do you just crack the bleed valve on the caliper (left rear, right rear, left front, right front) and wait for fresh fluid at each caliper?

Do you have someone watch the reservoir as your bleeding - or is there a trick for that?

If you are just flushing the lines to replace old fluid with new, you only need to move about 170 ml from the farthest wheel cylinder (less volume is needed for the others since the lines are shorter - duh).

How do I know this? Back when Gold and Blue ATE was available, I would switch between the colors and that was the volume that consistently resulted in a full color change.

[Locker537]

I purchased a Motive pressure bleeder based on recommendations on Pelican and have been very happy with it. I use it dry, which takes longer but requires much less cleanup. I have accidentally sucked air into the master cylinder once and find it best to refill the reservoir after every wheel. It's a slower process but still pretty quick.

Regarding clamping the overflow, I remove it instead. I attach a small piece of tubing that I clamp instead.

My thought is it is simply less wear and tear on the overflow hose.

[RDM]

And a 9/11mm flare wrench.

And a catch bottle.