Help needed to install motor mounts.

[JackT]

I have ordered sport engine and transmission mounts from our host. I need the Replacing Engine and Transmission Mounts for Dummys version. I have done a search here and looked in my 101Projects book but, these both assume I know a little something about this project. I did not know what the mounts looked like until I ordered. I do know how to jack up my car.
Any pictures or detail instructions would be deeply appreciated.

[Zendalar]

Support the engine from below. Open up the motor mount but, remove bolt, open the 2 other nuts/bolts, remove motor mount, install new motor mount, tighten 2 smaller nuts/bolts, install the big bolt, tighten up the nut/bolt. Do the other side like the first.

Actually I have not done it, but it would seem like one had to do it like this

Dunno about the tranny end, I think its the same..

[BGCarrera32]

I have done it, pretty much the same deal. Support the engine with a jack, do one mount on one side at a time. While you are under there doing the front (trasmission mounts) its a good time to clean up your transmission ground strap, which is ahead of the transmission mount on the passenger side. Once you have the car up it should all take around an hour.

[Neilk]

Be careful with the engine mounts! Make sure that the nut on the bottom does not bind and shear off the end of the engine support . Don't ask me how I know. :-(

[Zendalar]

BGCarrera32, one should change the transmission ground strap, they cost 5 bucks

[PDACPA]

Neil

Don't the newer cars not have the nut under there? I thought it was just threaded for the bolt to go in.

I was considering doing this too, but not sure of the benefit of doing it. Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks

[Doug Zielke]

Originally posted by PDACPA
Neil

Don't the newer cars not have the nut under there? I thought it was just threaded for the bolt to go in.

Correct.
Be very careful as you remove the bolt. If you apply too much force, the threaded portion will bend and/or twist right off!
If it is tight, try to support it from the underside with someting like a Vise-Grip plier.

[Don Plumley]

PDA, the benefit is the rubber wears out over time allowing the motor to move a bit more, especially under load. The theory is that with firmer mounts, there is less engine/tranny movement, which can also help improve shifting a bit since our cars have a solid coupling between the shift and the tranny. Full track cars use solid mounts - no dampening - at the trade-off of a harsher ride. A good compromise is to use sport mounts at the tranny and solid mounts at the engine; or even regular mounts at the tranny and sport mounts at the engine.

[PDACPA]

Thanks Don. The motor mounts looked like an easy thing to do. The transmission (I cannot picture where they are in my mind) might be more difficult. So my Pelican order is growing again! Sport mounts for the engine.

[Eric86Red911]

Not trying to nitpick, but I'm pretty sure that what are called "Sport Mounts" are in fact the regular stock mounts that use rubber. I replaced all four mounts recently in my '86. A waste of time and money, as the existing mounts were fine and I noticed no difference.

I found the tranny mounts easy to replace, but the engine mounts were really hard to reach (do I need better tools?).

[PDACPA]

This is the part number in Pelican's catalog. However, one page it says thru 89 and another says thru 73.

C-375-043-07

Eric, I know my motor ones appear dried and cracked which would mean just plain wear and age. So for a small price it cannot hurt.

You felt the tranny ones were easier? The motor ones are so clearly visible and tossing the jack under the engine to support it while you undo the bolt seems easy.


I just looked at Wayne's book and the tranny ones look easy too! Guess I need to get 4.

[code7rpd]

I just did the motor mounts inmy '81 SC. I found that the drivers side is relatively easy; just get a 13mm offset wrench to hold the nuts on the bottom and them use a socket on top. The passenger side is a little more problematic due to limited space with the AC. You have two choices: 1) unbolt the AC and move out of the way or 2)reach around it. I opted for the reach around method and although getting the bottom nut on is easy, getting the washer on before the nut isn't because once you put the washer on, you have to hold it in place then put the nut on. Since the washer is going on from the bottom, it will not stay in place. I ended up putting the washer on with my right hand going in behine the Ac then using my left hand to come under the AC from the left side to hold the washer while I got the nut in with my right hand. One way of making it easier is to loosten both mount bolts so you can drop the engine a few more inches otherwise the mount cross member gets in the way. Once the new mounts are in an bolted, line up the crossmember and puts the big bolts in. I found it easier to loosten the mount crossmember from the engine so that I had a little more wiggle room. Yu may have to get a prybar to move the crossmember a little to line up the bolts. Yuo actually have to push the bolt in frist and then start tightening as the threads are further down on in the crossmember receptacle. After the big bolts are tightened to 58 ft lbs, tighten the crossmember to enging bolts - if you had to loosten them and you are all done. Don't forget to put the two big washers in with the mounts. The bottom one is indexed concave up and the top is concave down.

[code7rpd]

Sorry for the mispelled words; in a rush!

[PDACPA]

Code

According to Wayne's book, the later 911's (mines an 89) do not have the nut. Am I misunderstanding this?

[Neilk]

Nut or not, just make sure that the end doesn't twist right off as you loosen the bolt.

[KTL]

Correct. There is NO nut for the later cars. I believe the year the engine carrier bar switched to a threaded body with no nut was 1978.

Like Doug and Neil said, nut or no nut make sure the carrier bar is not bending as you loosen the big bolt. I did exactly that on one of my bolts. The bolt just wouldn't come loose and I just kept cranking on it. Bent the crap out of the threaded bar end and had to have it welded. Bought another one and now use the welded one for lifting the motor onto a stand with a cherry picker.

Anyway........... all versions of the Porsche mount are rubber. Supposedly the Cabrio part is a bit stiffer/higher durometer rubber. And as an FYI, the Club Sport and Cabrio mounts are THE SAME part- they have the same number 911.375.043.07

The G50 trans. mounts are not replaceable PDA. You have to replace the whole alum. trans. cross member for $350. That blows.

[PDACPA]

Damn KTL

I must have read Wayne's book backasswards! I thought you could replace the later car ones, it was the earlier cars that the mounts were embedded.

Can you get something in thre to help not bending the nut?

[KTL]

Originally posted by PDACPA

Can you get something in thre to help not bending the nut?

Just try loosening the 19mm screws a quarter turn and see if they are hung up at all. If so, go underneath the car and find the location where the crossbar aligns with the motor mount. Shoot some penetrating lube (not WD40) around there and hope it lets go.

If not, try a few sharp blows on your ratchet with a hammer. A quick shot with an impact wrench would definitely get it loose. Just make sure to support the motor with your floor jack so as to relieve some of the motor weight that is hanging on the crossbar.

When you reinstall the 19mm screws put some antiseize on them.

[PDACPA]

Thanks KTL!

I will probably call in my order to Pelican, but does that part number appear to be the SPORT ones?

[KTL]

Yep. The Pelican part number you listed above is the ClubSport/Cabrio. mount.

That's the one you want.