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There's definitely an issue with mixture side-to-side which hints at vacuum leaks (none found) or cam issues. But the thing runs fine when cold (idle slightly above 1000), so perhaps there's something with the chains or the tensioners. New injectors will be going in today, that may make a difference...
-Wayne |
cross my finger Wayne;-)..somehow i think even if the cams would not be set up perfectly..since you have good cold running engine ..does not seem mechanical...could not be the problem...
Ivan |
...so hook up the widebands fake nb output and set your afr wherever you want it.
An lc2 or most other wbo2 units have that fake nb feature for more or less exactly this reason. It will also give you a second wideband to make side-to-side comparisons at the same time. Real issue is probably an oopsie buried in the harness, but that will get you drivable. I would have probably built a new harness by now, you almost certainly know how, and if not you have local skilled help. You are already part way there with the injector harness. Suggest that if you do, wire the injectors individually so you have a easier option if you stick an aftermarket ecu in it later. The car is old enough I suspect you are free to do that even in cali. |
This is amazing. 25 pages thread with so many contributors.
And most of all, Wayne's perseverance! I'm really curious to learn what is going to solve this issue |
Wayne any updates love to know what it is good luck
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Bump.....
Any update? Its like waiting for the next season of Westworld:) |
I was going to take it in last week, but there probably was a miscommunication with the shop, and I haven't heard anything back. I'm super busy with stuff over here, so it's been sitting. Nicolas Hunziker was over the other day, and we started it up - has the same crappy running problems. I've exhausted my patience with it. Freeman Thomas suggested tossing some carbs on it (he has a 3.2L 914 with carbs that dynoed off the charts), but I don't have an easy spare setup (the ones I have need a rebuild) - I'd also need to plumb up a different fuel pump and fuel system. Seems like a lot of work, and I'm not sure what that would tell me anyways (I guess it could isolate the problem to the mechanical versus the fuel injection).
I think the route would be to have a third party take a look at it first before I go that route. -Wayne |
Quote:
I started up tonight, and sure enough - nothing's magically changed. :( -Wayne |
Bad gas? It has been so long since i read the whole thread…
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Hi Wayne.
It has been three months. Have the pros from Dover generated any new ideas? I have the same transplant and your efforts to renew the 3.2 have led the way for me.This most excellent thread needs a denoumonte. Mark |
Hi Wayne,
Still with bated breath. Have Grant and Ray come up with any good ideas? |
So, I was all set to take it over there several months ago, and then I got a sore throat the night before. So, to be extra cautious, I postponed it, and we haven't gone back there yet. I started it up the other day, and it pretty much was the same. Soon...
-Wayne |
Wayne please keep us posted. Anxious the hear what the issue is……
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Assuming engine mechanicals, grounds, ignition secondary, vacuum leaks and fuel system are OK. Used a timing light to calm the curious. Had a vacuum gage hooked up full time. All DME/sensor/actuator connections visually checked for bent pins, green guck etc. (you did make sure none of the connector pins have been pushed back, right?)
Quick digression, I once found a weak valve spring causing a similar issue on a Ford Pinto 2.3. That will date me… Put the car on a lift or otherwise make sure you can put your hands on all potential suspects. Start the car and once the crappy running is consistent, grab and move, wrestle, wiggle, etc every connection, taped up area, wires going through bulkheads, etc. (holding a screwdriver backwards and tapping connector bodies, relays, etc with the plastic handle…) Be very thorough. Wiggle every DME related wire… The reason this is so important to do first, is, when you pull the seats, move this, or cut some tie wraps or tape first, “to make checking easier” you risk temporarily healing the real issue. Next, consider opening all the harness splice points and check for/fix obvious issues. Leave the connections well separated for the next test Hi-pot wiring: Make absolutely sure all connections/wires are isolated. Verify each wire’s integrity by doing a hi-pot test referencing ground. I use a BK 308 tester set at 250 v to start. Then (time consuming) hi-pot wire to wire. Also measure voltage drop across relay/DME relay contacts everywhere in circuit. |
Any news?
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Does the engine have the same restricted crankcase ventilation as in the original 911 application? Ie what happens when you remove oil filler cap on idling engine?
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Nope, no news - haven't really worked on it. I need to get it over to my friend's shop for a second look. I think it's something mechanical with the chains, but I'm too close to it now...
-Wayne |
I'm just coming to this thread, but I can say that on a Mercedes I owned some years ago, a bad cylinder head temp sensor caused a variety of problems. Did you ever get around to measuring the CHT sensor resistance at several temps and compare to the specs? Measure it cold, and at operating temp (you can dunk it in boiling water to check the warm resistance). Or substitute another CHT that you know works on another engine.
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Resolved?
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Nope. I just deal with the lopey idle. The car runs great at speed and upper rpm, but the idle is just a little bit off. I have a bunch of other cars right now that are far far worse off that I'm working on...
-Wayne |
What's weird is that my 3.2 lopes after coming to an idle, but only when I visit California! I've been out there four times in the last six years. I've always wondered if it was the altitude or the fuel.
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That is a very interesting thought. I replaced every component in the fuel system including the fuel tank. But I think I still have used pump gas. I have access to 110 VP Racing fuel, I wonder if that would work any better...
Hmmm... -Wayne |
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