Getting fuel lines through tunnel and out the other end...

[Adrock]

Guys, I've spent what feels like days, trying to get my replacement fuel lines through the tunnel and out the other end. *I had two hard lines made up using the original fittings at each end.
I'm having two problems, which are -

* Once I get one line through the tunnel, the second line will just not go through the tunnel next to the first one. It just doesn't seem to fit. The fittings are the same, so they went in and came out of these same holes. Has anybody else had this issue or have some advise on trying to get the 2nd one through? I

*Other problem is, what happens to the fuel lines when they get to the front end of the pan - it seems that no matter how i get them to go out the front two holes, they are going to interfere with the moving parts from the clutch/brake/gas pedal inside the tunnel. I should have taken photos before i pulled the old ones out - but i didn't think it was going to be this hard.... famous last words!! Does anybody have a picture or a diagram of how they should come out of the tunnel at the front?

Any tips would be appreciated! I've already spent a few $ getting these lines made up, so please don't suggest that I should go and buy the original ones or another version that's out there. These will work, I just need to get them in.

Thanks!

[salayc]

You are installing back to front? Are you using the old lines to pull new?
With flexible lines, if you're not pulling with the old ones, you will want to see and feel as many obstructions as possible, so remove the tunnel cover at the rear, the floorboards at the front, and pull the accelerator pedal forward un-clipping it. The lines pass through some retainers at the shifter, you can access that area better by removing the shifter. A flashlight is your friend, but not just to look down into access holes, you can use it on the outside of the car and shine through holes to see obstructions. At the rear, the metal tubes have a couple of bends, so it can be a bit tricky to pass them.
If you have the old lines you may want to re-install them front to back and create a coupling to pull the new ones through.

[Ayles]

Get a flashlight and a mirror to see what is causing the difficulty. Shouldn’t be too tricky if you are pulling them through with the old lines.

[GH85Carrera]

I wiggled, tugged and pushed and went back-to-front a few dozen times by myself trying to get the lines through. I finally called over a buddy. With him in the rear, and me in the front with a push and pull motion we got both lines snaked through in short order. I think I would still be under the car trying by myself.

In the front, the threads only stick out a little past the grommets. Then the rubber hose part is supposed to go over the steering rack. It does not HAVE to go over, you can route it under and keep it clear of all the steering components.

I bought my new lines from Len and he provides a coupler that connects the old lines to the new ones. That makes it pretty easy, and the coupling is the same size as the lines. No big wad of tape or wires tying the lines together.

Good luck, it is a fiddly job.

[shoooo32]

I ran new (OEM Porsche) tunnel lines this weekend. The trick was to disconnect the lines at the rear and push them forward a few inches until they were flush with the rear bulkhead. Then snip the plastic line in the front of the car, leaving a few inches sticking out.

I went to the hardware store and found the right size barb for the plastic ID and drilled the NPT ID thread on the other end for a 14mm tap. Then you connect the 14mm thread of the new line to the barb in the old line in the front of the car, then pull from the rear. It helps to have two people and a long screwdriver to help work it through, but once we figured out the first one, the second one took only a few minutes.

[Brtuffli]

I bought the kit from Len, fuel tank drained (filled up 2 other cars) replaced the rear lines, removed the old grommets and replaced the short line to the pump. I attached one of the old tunnel lines to a new line and began pulling. I couldn't get it very far. I have a friend coming over tomorrow to push from the rear while I pull from the front. I am hoping that is the trick. I will report back with any tricks and how it went. One additional question, do I need to cut the new grommets in half or will they fit over then ends of the new tunnel lines? Front looks to be more difficult than the rear for the grommet installation.

[salayc]

Originally Posted by Brtuffli

One additional question, do I need to cut the new grommets in half or will they fit over then ends of the new tunnel lines? Front looks to be more difficult than the rear for the grommet installation.

The Porsche grommets have a slit in them so they can be installed after the lines. If you have aftermarket, just cut one side.

[Adrock]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Unfortunately, the original lines were removed in order to have the shop make up new hard lines. I never got the old lines back from them.

The connections at the front of the hard line are taken from the original polyamide lines and brazed onto the hard lines. It seems that once one line is through (which isn't that hard to slide up to the front, the second line is impossible to get through. It's getting stuck around where the seat belt connectors bolt into the pan. Unfortunately no way to manually help guide it through there.
My girlfriend and I spent a whole day on the weekend trying work it out.
I'm wondering if I grind off one side of the front connection, that might reduce the side of the front connector and allow it to get through.

BTW, my engine, transmission and fuel tank are all out, so access is pretty easy. But all of it going back in is dependent on these lines getting put back in.

If anybody is out tinkering with their fuel lines, I would love to see a photo or diagram of how the lines are supposed to be oriented around the moving pedal parts in the tunnel. My car is a LHD > RHD conversion, so I wonder if this creates more issues?

[salayc]

You may want to try a fish tape. Meaning, use a thin, flexible, metal or plastic strip that you can insert into the second hole and work your way down to / through the obstructions. Then use that to pull the new line.
Hate to suggest it, but have you though about cutting an access hole in the top or side of the tunnel? Pretty easy to cover up later.
There are a couple of good diagrams and pictures of the fuel lines in some other threads about them.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1051477-tunnel-fuel-line-measurement-911sc-1983-a.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1048530-911e-brake-pipe-fuel-line-tunnel-routes-exit.html

[BoxsterGT]

It is essential having a helper and the proper wrenches (FLARE & open end) & long nose pliers AND flashlights for both you.

First step is to push the old grommets into the tunnel. Then retrieve them with the flashlight and long nose pliers. The factory grommets are split and can be pushed out with a flat bladed screwdriver.

Then with the flashlight and that flat bladed screwdriver, bend back the metal tabs that hold the original lines in place. This allows some movement so you can more easily disconnect the front & rear hoses.

If you are installing my Polyamide lines I include a M14 Female connector. With the new connected at the rear and with the aid of the helper (did I say this was essential?) one pulls the original out the front while the other GUIDES (not pushes) it through from the rear. A little electrical tape over the joint will help to smooth out the connection and eliminate snags.

If you are installing factory replacement lines or metal hardlines, try running a fish line through the old original lines first. (Weed trimmer line works well.) Then you can run the fish line through the replacement hardline so you have a guide through the tunnel.

If you have removed the originals, the fish line will be your only guide to installing replacements. You will have to use flashlights and your helper just to get this in place.

In the middle of the Tunnel there is a channel for the lines to go through to help prevent interference with the pedals....





I hope some of this helps.

Len

[BoxsterGT]

One more comment...

If you are using factory replacements, they must be installed from front to rear.

Easiest to pull the old lines forward an inch or so and cut the 90 deg end off. You can then run the fish line through both the new and the original still in the tunnel.

Tape them together and pull them out the back and through until the 90 deg end is in place up front.

Len

[Adrock]

Hey guys, thanks for the help so far.
I managed to get back into it on the weekend, after being in lockdown for a few months.

It seems that no matter what I do, the fuel line through the tunnel seems to foul the clutch lever. (keeping in mind this is a RHD converted from LHD car).

In this photo, I've installed only the line which goes through the left side fuel line hole. As it is, it already rubs up against the clutch lever. If I was to install the 2nd fuel line through the right side hole (which I haven't been able to even get that far yet) it would most definitely rub closer to the clutch lever.

Can anybody tell me what it is that I'm doing wrong?
The fuel line is the copper colour one on the left.


And a video:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/X3qPYPmr5qy6ftuc9

[BoxsterGT]

I remember somewhere reading that copper tube is NOT advisable for Fuel Lines.

Don't know where, and it may be an old wives tale.

Wish I could be of more help. With the LHD to RHD conversion some handiwork will be in order.

Len

[jlex]

Nice discussion on the pros and cons on using copper:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/copper-fuel-line-bad-idea.213327/

[Mark Salvetti]

What is the OD of your copper line? I'm thinking it's just too large. The OD is probably similar to the flexible lines you removed, but because they could flex they were probably able to get around those obstructions.

I know early 911s had steel lines through the tunnel; I wonder what size those were? May not matter, you didn't say what engine you have, but it probably needs more fuel than those early 2.0-2.4 liter engines.

What if you enlarged the holes where the fuel lines come out at the steering rack? Would that allow you to slide the line over far enough to avoid the interference? You'll have to come up with a different grommet, but that should be easy.

Also check out this Heidi and Franny fuel line replacement video. You might see something that will help.
https://youtu.be/Ov5WgnuHffE

Mark

[Ok here we go]

Originally Posted by Mark Salvetti

Also check out this Heidi and Franny fuel line replacement video. You might see something that will help.
https://youtu.be/Ov5WgnuHffE

Mark

Man, I swear I've watched that video start to finish at least 5 times in hopes of psyching myself up to attempt the job. What I wouldn't give for a 4- or even 2-post lift.

[pampadori]

Originally Posted by Ok here we go

Man, I swear I've watched that video start to finish at least 5 times in hopes of psyching myself up to attempt the job. What I wouldn't give for a 4- or even 2-post lift.

Would you give about $3,000? Cause that is about what it'll take

[Ok here we go]

Originally Posted by pampadori

Would you give about $3,000? Cause that is about what it'll take

Lol! Right!?! That and more money to raise the roof of my low garage ceiling. Shoot, might as well make it a whole new garage while I'm at it.

[UK Carrera]

I must have been very lucky but I just fitted Len's tunnel lines and both lines pulled straight through literally in seconds. No issues at all.

[88911coupe]

There is a great YouTube video by Franny and Heidi on this.