Engine drop - Removing driver side line and elct. conct. ?

[khamul02]

1. I'm trying to get this electrical connector off and it is being a PITA. I have not put a tool to it on because I'm afraid to break it.. any tricks to get it off?




2. I guess this other line is a fuel line and it has two connectors.. I haven't really tried to take it off yet because the fittings are unlike the other fuel lines. Any suggestions on it? What side should I pull off to drop then engine? Any risk of stripping them n stuff...

[Flat6pac]

The short hose is NLA so don’t bend it too much
Try the connector closer to the motor
The lambda electrical connection, just pull straight up. Small flat screwdriver might help but recall the fixture is near 40 years brittle.
Don’t forget the ground wire forward right side of the trans at the torque tube
Undo the ground at battery
Remove the starter heavy black wire
Bruce

[boyt911sc]

Tom,

There are two (2) metal fuel lines at the driver side at engine bay. One goes to fuel accumulator and that is the main delivery line. The other one goes to the T-fitting shown in your picture. That is the return.

In picture #1, the rectangular plastic connector is the 12-pin plug for the lambda circuit. This is a two-piece assembly, top and bottom section. Grab the upper section and wiggle it up to separate it from the bottom section. The bottom section is mounted on a metal bracket.

These are the following things you need to do before you start removing the 2 transmission mount bolts and 2 engine mount bolts:

• 14-pin connector.
• 12-pin connector.
• Cruise control cable.
• OXS connection.
• Heat exchanger ducts.
• Sway bar
• Shifter coupler linkage inside the tunnel.
• Electrical connection for the speedometer at tunnel.
• CV bolts.
• Transmission ground cable.
• Big black cable from battery to starter.
• Disconnect the oil line from engine to auxiliary thermostat.
• Disconnect the oil line from engine to oil tank.
• Disconnect the throttle linkage at the transmission to engine and accelerator.
• Disconnect the clutch cable at the transmission end.
• Disconnect the clutch lever arm.
• Do not forget to drain the engine oil.
• Etc.

If you are doing this for the first time, it would be prudent to have a second person to assist you or at least be around. Stay safe.

Tony

[jlex]

Very nice checklist, Tony.... I assume it's for a 3.2 removal?

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Tom,

There are two (2) metal fuel lines at the driver side at engine bay. One goes to fuel accumulator and that is the main delivery line. The other one goes to the T-fitting shown in your picture. That is the return.

In picture #1, the rectangular plastic connector is the 12-pin plug for the lambda circuit. This is a two-piece assembly, top and bottom section. Grab the upper section and wiggle it up to separate it from the bottom section. The bottom section is mounted on a metal bracket.

These are the following things you need to do before you start removing the 2 transmission mount bolts and 2 engine mount bolts:

• 14-pin connector.
• 12-pin connector.
• Cruise control cable.
• OXS connection.
• Heat exchanger ducts.
• Sway bar
• Shifter coupler linkage inside the tunnel.
• Electrical connection for the speedometer at tunnel.
• CV bolts.
• Transmission ground cable.
• Big black cable from battery to starter.
• Disconnect the oil line from engine to auxiliary thermostat.
• Disconnect the oil line from engine to oil tank.
• Disconnect the throttle linkage at the transmission to engine and accelerator.
• Disconnect the clutch cable at the transmission end.
• Disconnect the clutch lever arm.
• Do not forget to drain the engine oil.
• Etc.

If you are doing this for the first time, it would be prudent to have a second person to assist you or at least be around. Stay safe.

Tony

The instructions to put it back in is just one easy step. Do the reverse of taking it out.

That a LOT of pictures, more than you will think you ever need of each step. The routing of the wires and fuel lines is sometimes difficult to remember, but Porsche routed them that way for a reason.

[john walker's workshop]

The end of the fuel line away from the engine is a bit easier to get at. 11mm open end wrench and a 17mm open end. The 11mm seems hard to get all the way on sometimes. I have one I relieved slightly for an easier fit.

[GH85Carrera]

I ended up getting a 17mm crow foot line wrench on a long extension to get the fuel lines apart. There is little room to work in there and I have large hands.

[stevie 77 930]

The fuel line is a little tough.... 17mm and 11mm as prescribed




I wound up replacing it...

[khamul02]

Thank you! My goal is to replace all of the fuel lines while I have it out. That electrical connector proved to be a nightmare. It was stuck on there like you wouldn't believe. One of the bottom edges broke off so it will just barely snap into the metal bracket that holds it. I'm going to try to find a replacement. I think it is a six pin.

[BoxsterGT]

In case either of these short fuel lines are ever needed, I can make up both the Feed and the Return with my custom "Direct Connect" fittings...





All my hoses are E-85 Rated and should last for the lifetime of the vehicle.

For info, please email me.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net

[khamul02]

Len,
Outstanding news. I will be purchasing soon. Are there any other fuel lines you make for the car?

[BoxsterGT]

I offer pretty much everything NLA and not available from our host.

I started doing this in 1979 after bringing back various tools & fixtures from Cohline in Germany during a Porsche Club Treffen.

It's best to email me as pm's cannot carry photos and I depend on them for much of my information.

For the SC, in addition to the Fuel Injector Lines with their Silicone Rubber Cover...



I also can Re-Make with new Polyamide tube your original Main Feed and Return Lines that are NLA from Porsche and/or Pelican....





Again, best to email me.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net