Re: service bulletin, it would be great if you could email existing owners with updates such as this as opposed to reading about it on a forum.

Today, I finished adding the wiring to the compressor and it required a little relocating of the red power wires to the disconnect relay so I could attach the black ECU connector.

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Added the 80 amp fuse to the red power cable and since there was exposed connector metal on each end I decided to add black shrink tubing instead of using tape. I made sure the shrink tubing was inside the fuse cover but not interfering with the metal to metal contact at the terminals.

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Another Pelican has had an issue with the blower fan only working at one speed. I looked at the circuit schematic and the harness connector. The old fan connector was keyed so it can only be connected one way. One of the things I learned over 50 years ago if you have a connector that has more than one wire then the male and female connector should be keyed. Unfortunately, the new blower housing connector is not keyed. If you make the connection to the blower wrong only one fan speed will work.
I labeled the new blower housing connector to show how the harness connector should be oriented.

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The rest of the day was spent taking out the old blower housing and test fitting the front fender condenser.

Day 3,

I spent the morning flushing out my original front condenser and testing the fan function. I have decided to keep this condenser and add it to the system and these are my reasons:

1. It will add to the dissipation of heat and hopefully help lower cabin vent temps.
2. While testing the fan it did push a decent amount of air.
3. It will be right in line with the left front fender main condenser. (Not a lot of added hose.
4. A second condenser costs ~$350 plus shipping.
5. I still have the trombone oil cooler so my right front fender is not available for a new condenser.
6. I don’t like the idea of running lines to the back left rear fender well.
7. At the beginning of this thread I asked for any positive or negative opinions on keeping the front condenser. I received no comments so I will go with the old adage no news is good news.

Now that I have made my decision on keeping the front condenser I realized I should install the window washer bottle to the back of the left front fender using Classic Retrofits mod kit and a used boxer complete washer bottle I bought off eBay for $52 that included shipping and the pump and rubber grommets. I decided to tackle this so I could install the wiring harness to the front fender open holes before installing the condenser.


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Mounted the two brackets and the water line to the spray heads.

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The manual stated to leave the two back mounting screws loose so you could adjust the water bottle up as far as it would go and then remove and tighten the two bolts. I decided to move the bracket up as far as I could and still have good contact with the bolts tightened. The tank mounted into the space with no issues.

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This is a side view of the wheel well. I won’t know if I have an issue with the tire until it is back on the ground.


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Nice. I got a Boxster/996 washer bottle and was thinking of fabbing my own bracket/electrical. I haven’t looked into it yet, but was wondering if the in-tank pump could run the headlight washers (as in the original). The pickup for the original WW pump could be added to the Boxster tank. Thoughts?

—Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have no experience with headlight washers since it was not on my cars configuration. I would guess it would require its own pump and switch control. You would also need to find a location on the boxer tank to mount the pump.

Day 4,

Removed the a/c temp and fan switch from center console and yanked out the harness that connected to the foot well resistors and the old evap motor.

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Added the a/c switch and a small flashing red light in the second hole for the low washer fluid indicator. I did not want to tie into the gas tank low light. There is nothing wrong with going to the low gas light except my personal preference. The red flashing light will be annoying so I will fill the reservoir right away and it uses the second hole in the center console. The toggle momentary switch is for the keyless entry system and I tied it into the original factory alarm system. No more key in the side of drivers door.

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Does the knee well bow tie vent get used? From what I am initially seeing is that it doesn’t unless I can figure out how to tie it in with one other vent using the two vent holes in the smugglers box.

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Day 5,

Ran the wiring for the window washer and for the condenser fan through the rubber grommets previously used by the old window washer system. Temporarily applied power to the window washer circuit and the low fluid indicator light flashed. Added fluid and all worked as designed.

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I previously stated that I wanted to keep the original front condenser and add it to the new condenser circuit. There is a #8 (13/32) hose coming from the new compressor to the new condenser. The line out from the new condenser is a #6 (5/16) going to the dryer. In order for me to use the old condenser I had to cannibalize two #6 flared nut fittings from the old system to make up hoses to connect it between the new condenser and the dryer.

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The fitting is shorter so the second clamp will need to be moved forward before tightening. Also there is a ridge ring that prevents a full seat of the fitting while using the blue alignment jig. I used a step drill bit to open the end on the blue alignment tool so the ridge ring would seat against the hose.

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With the nut Reinstalled on the fitting I tightened the first clamp then removed the blue jig and moved the second clamp forward before tightening.

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Day 6,

Completed mounting the new condenser and tied in the #6 and #8 hoses from the two condenser connections to the smugglers box.

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Started working on the addition of the T duct on the drivers side. As we all know this area is a real rats nest of cables and ducting. I decided to unbolt the brake reservoir and booster to move it forward just about an inch to provide more access to the area. The old paper/aluminum ducting is no longer usable due to age. I acquired 72” of 2-1/4” ducting it is slightly smaller than the 60 mm ducting. I used some soft sleeve that I had laying around to connect the T to the new duct and wrapped with electrical tape.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609723633.jpg

The slightly smaller line was easier to feed through the hole and I used a good section of the old duct to connect the hose to the driver side head duct.



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Day 7,

Today was just one of those days where you have good and bad things happen.

The good:

Repaired a cracked end where a nut is encapsulated on the bottom portion of the blend valve. This was actually broken when I took it out in early 2000 time frame. At that time I just used a bolt, nut and a couple of washers. Today I repaired the damage and I actually had the original nut and screw.

The one on the left is the good unit with the mold form. The one on the right is the damaged one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609802325.jpg

The mold was transferred to the broken one.

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The repaired piece needs light sanding to clean up the repair.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609807307.jpg

The bad:

After the installation of the blending valve on the drivers side I realized I did not have the two Bowden cables connected on the front of the blending valve. In an attempt to attach the two cables I broke the bracket that the two cables connect to the flapper valve. I had to remove the blending valve to repair the damage.

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I drilled a hole into flapper valve end and aligned the metal bracket with the broken piece removed. I filled the hole with plastex and inserted the screw and a washer.

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I would recommend using tape to hold the cable screw in place while you try to put the cable through the hole in the screw.

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Back to the good:

The blending valve on the drivers side is reinstalled with each of the Bowden cables connected to it. Plastic caps on spray cans are the right size to use as an interface between the 2.25” hose that I bought locally and the blending valve.

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Classic Retrofit A/C Installation
 

Targa80-The issue of only one speed on the old blower and the new blower was finally solved. The problem was in the receptacle under the dash. I built a new harness from the wiring similar to the one in your harness photo that you showed from your old console switch which had the identical plug used for my old blower, and a new six pin receptacle purchased on Ebay. Wire colors are different but hooked up properly it works great and I now have three speeds on the old blower. However I still only have one speed on the new blower. That blower is defective and will be replaced by Classic Retrofit.

You asked about the use of the bow tie vent on your 911. I do not have a bow tie vent in the 74 Carrera but I do have a very large opening in the cowl from the previous dealer installed air conditioning system from 74 that I have removed. I was able to reduce the vent opening on the new blower (shown on the CR install diagram as to the front "centre vent") using a shop vac reducer from Amazon from 2 1/2" to 1 1/4" and flex hose from Aircraft Spruce to go under the new blower and through the existing large circular hole shown in the attached photo to the previous opening for the original a/c duct work. I had to flatten the flex hose into a slight oval (using a vise on the metal spiral reinforcing wire inside the hose) where it goes under the blower in order to make it fit. I then made a cover plate for the opening and drilled a 1 1/4" hole in the plate to accept an 1 1/4" PVC "L" fitting from Lowes so that the new flex hose from the new blower would connect to the fitting on both sides of the plate. I will use either the new vent coming from Achtung Kraft that replaces the ashtray or the Kuehl vent from Griffiths for a center vent. Please forgive the temporary hose fittings in the photo. I have left them loose until I receive the new blower.

Not sure what the connection to your bow tie vent looks like but maybe you could use something like the above fabricated system to hook up to it if you desire.
Any questions, please contact me.

Richard

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Classic Retrofit A/C Installation
 

Correction. The Aircraft Spruce flex hose ducting used on the future center vent hose connection was 1 1/2" Cat 6 ducting not 1 1/4"

Day 8,

Today was a very short day to work on the car due to other commitments. Mounted the dryer in smugglers box using threaded rivets and cut the #6 hose from the condenser to fit the dryer location.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609890770.jpg

Did a test fit of the compressor in the smugglers box. I selected the direction of the compressor in the box so the short ground cables are close to the ground post and the #8 hose from the condenser will be a straight shot to the compressor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609892503.jpg

Also, did a test fit of the new air box so I can decide how I will run the two lines from the air box to the compressor and dryer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609893000.jpg

You are making good progress. Good job documenting your work. It's interesting to see how everyone has their own preference on mounting the A/C components.

Can you tell me the brand and model number of the relay? I need to get one for my electrocool A/C.

This is the only info I have and Classic Retrofit has them available.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609903335.jpg

The Classic Retrofit manual has the following info on page 47:

Albright Engineers
SW60-360P
12V extra heavy duty make/break relay - 120A

Day 9,

Today I installed the vent hoses that connect the drivers side to the blower. Also, connected the #6 and #8 hoses to the blower to see how I can run them to the smugglers box.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609978819.jpg

Earlier, I mentioned that I have the bow tie vent at the center of the two footwells. I am trying to come up with a way to still use the bow tie vent and connect it to the spare blower vent on the drivers side. I already have a/c center vents so I really don’t need the vent in the clock position. I will need to modify ducting items 7 and 10 that connect to item 15 (bow tie) in the below diagram.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609979821.jpg

I found this shop vac adapter at Home Depot that I will cut up and blend with just the base of of item 10 above.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609980072.jpg

The attachment is too long and will be cut down but it is flat enough to fit under the blower housing. Time will tell if I can make it fit and work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609980458.jpg

Nice progress Pat!

When messing about with custom ducts, just be aware that air is very lazy, it literally wants to go with the flow (easiest path). You can often correct air flow balance issues by partially blocking other air paths. One of the easiest methods is to put some duct tape partially across a blower outlet. You won’t see it because it will be hidden by the duct.

Porsche themselves used this method in the screen defrost vents. On an SC you will see a half moon shaped blockage inside.

Day 10,

Well, I started working on getting the passenger blend valve and the T connection installed. Unfortunately while testing the three vent controls I noticed that the heat control was very hard to move and of course the Bowden cables for the heat are on the backside of the blend valves. So sometime tomorrow I will have to go in and undo the blower and the ducting on the drivers side to figure out why the red slider is binding. The last time I had the vent controls and the Bowden cables out was back in 2002 and they did not easily slide once I installed them.

I spent the weekend repairing the vent control mechanism and lubricating the Bowden cables then reinstalling them into the dash and hooking up the related harness.

Day 11,

Reinstalled the driver/passenger blend valves and their associated Bowden cables. Reinstalled the new blower system and connected all of the ducting except the spare output on the drivers side.

Modified the original duct in the smugglers box that feeds the bow tie and a passenger foot well side vent by closing off the opening from the old evaporator.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610420769.jpg

I modified a rigid shop vac attachment I bought at Home Depot to replace the original top duct work that is no longer used. It is not pretty but it will do the job and be covered by frunk carpeting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610421357.jpg

With the blower in place I only need to fab up the connection from the spare blower output to the lower bow tie connection. After that I can continue on with the a/c line connections from the blower to the dryer and the compressor. I did find that the Bowden cable that connects to the blower housing need to be pulled tight to be able to clamp it in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610422058.jpg

Day 12,

Completed the remaining ac line connections in the smugglers box and pulled a vacuum on the system. I tried to acquire nitrogen to pressurize the system and found it is not cost effective to acquire. The AC suppliers I talk to said, “just pull a vacuum and see that the vacuum holds for an extended period of time”. Use a leak dye to find any leak if it occurs after charging.

Between the ac lines and the electrical cables the smugglers box is pretty crowded.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610592272.jpg


The ac rig shows the low and high sides are holding vacuum after 3 hours with the pump shutoff.

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