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It's kind of strange that the US has many more AC shops compared to the UK, yet most do not seem to have pressure test equipment. Even our local village garage has a bottle of nitrogen.
The reason we favour the pressure testing is because it is pushing the o-rings out, just like running the compressor will. When you vacuum, you are pulling the o-rings in, which can have a self-sealing effect even if the o-ring is pinched or split. Also, if you do have a leak, it is just nitrogen going into the atmosphere, rather than freon, plus it takes longer to de gas and re gas. Having said all that, you will probably be ok. Good luck! |
Jonny,
I agree that a pressure test would be the best way to go but as I said earlier the A/C suppliers say go with the vacuum and hope for the best. I was very careful with making the crimps and each of the connections. I used PAG-46 oil on each of the “O” rings and made sure the connectors seated properly and the system held vacuum overnight. I won’t be charging the system until I re-install the CIS/air box and then re-install the motor. The engine install will have to wait on the delivery of the alternator from FedEx. The alternator was separated from the other two boxes and has been stuck in Memphis Tennessee at the large FedEx facility before Dec 23rd and they are not very helpful in expediting the package. |
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Day 13,
Today, I closed up the two large holes and one small hole in the smugglers box that were used by the old evaporator. Added the new drain line that connects to the two drain holes at the bottom of the new blower. Installed the two temp sensors and the usb connector. I routed the usb connector into the passenger side for easy access during the setup and testing phase. The power connections will be done after I complete the new 175 amp alternator install and reinstall the motor. The smugglers box is pretty full with the dryer and compressor and associated hoses and power cables. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610674836.jpg The smugglers box cover closes and leaves the frunk fairly neat. There is an increase in the amount of air ducts but that will be covered with the frunk carpeting. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610675547.jpg |
Day 14,
Yesterday, I finally received the 175 amp alternator. It was stuck/lost in the FedEx facility in Memphis Tennessee for almost a month. Made many phone calls trying to get them to track it down and deliver the package. Fortunately the alternator was packaged very well and sustained no damage. Ran the new #4 red cable through an existing hole in the fan shroud using a black grommet. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611265688.jpg Enlarged an existing hole in the engine tin to pass the cable through a black grommet. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611266001.jpg Installed the new alternator with the Df wire taped off and the three brown wires tied to the chassis ground terminal. Needed to file the key way slot on the fan slightly to remove a burr that prevented it from mating with the new keyway on the alternator shaft. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611266471.jpg It turns out that the new alternator has a thicker shaft and different threads so the fan belt assembly fits with the shims but the large curved washer hole is to small to fit on the shaft. I will probably just enlarge the hole in the curved washer and use the new nut to hold the assembly together. I am waiting on a response from Jonny on his recommendation to resolve this minor issue. I would have thought that they would have provided a replacement for the curved washer. I have the drill press so fixing it is not a problem. Just another item I did not expect during the install. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611267269.jpg |
Hi Pat,
Unless Jonny has switched companies the curved washer fit my upgraded alternator on my 1987 911. David |
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How hard do you think the hook up to the starter solenoid is without a lift, am I looking at an impossible task or do you think it could be achieved on jack stands?
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On the vacuum vs pressure test with my install I had a leak we simply could not find the shop spent quite a while on it, then I ended up taking the car home and in a few days the refrigerant was gone. I started digging and looking around with the UV light, and then found out the shop hadn't done the pressure test as required. So instead I found another shop that said they could do the pressure test, they did it and immediately found and fixed the issue, it held for at least a couple of months after that (now the car is in storage for the winter).
You might get lucky with the leaks, but the pressure test is worth it IMHO. |
gremlin,
Where was your leak? |
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Day 15,
It should be noted that yes I am on day 15 but my work days are only about 6 hours and I have been side tracked due to honey dues and having the engine out for a blown air box. With the engine out i decided this was a good time to do the A/C upgrade. If I was just doing the A/C upgrade I can guarantee that it would have been done a lot sooner, but I’m retired so I can take my time and have fun in the garage with Der Porsche. Today was spent putting the engine back in the car and making all the mechanical, fuel, oil and electrical connections. Started to install new axel shafts I bought from our host and I noticed they came with no gaskets. Looks like I will either make a set of gaskets or order them and be delayed another week. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611447402.jpg |
Washer bottle install help
I’m in the middle of the washer tank move. Did you have to remove the original washer pump in the trunk? Or does that stay connected?
Confused by this one as my washer lines run to the front of the car and split into 3 there probably because i have the headlight washers Quote:
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I do not have the headlight washer system so I completely removed pump from the front of frunk. Used the holes on the front driver side fender well to run power lines for new pump and new condenser Fan. You will need to figure how you are going to tie in your headlight washer with the new pump.
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Don’t need them
I’m not worried about hooking them up just wondering if i remove the pump and where does the washer line come from that i run out to the new washer tank in the hole by the filler?
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The line comes from the two spray heads and connects to the pump output from the boxer tank pump. In the second picture you can see that the hose line is long because it use to go to the front of the frunk and connect to the old pump.
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Day 16,
Decided to make my own gaskets for the two rear axels because I did not want to wait another week for delivery. Installed the axels and torqued the bolts to 34 FtLb. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611532527.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611533176.jpg Ran the engine without the fuel pump to circulate the oil before trying to start the motor. The motor fired right up on the first try. Idled at 1000 and climbed to 1400 and started to drop off as it became warm settled down to 850 rpm’s. It looks like my air box rebuild after it exploded has been a success. Adjusted throttle up to 950 and took it for a spin. The engine has some popping out the exhaust and since I reconnected the decel valve to the vacuum circuit I started having the idle staying over 2000 while dropping out of gear for a stop. So I will be sorting those out before getting to finish the A/C install. The alternator is putting out over 14 volts and no issues with the generator light. |
Every time I look at this thread I get wheel well envy! Soooooo clean.
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A lot of times your local FLAPS can get the gaskets in a day. They get them from Worldpac.
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