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“I believe the TT on the left side chain cover and 15 degree switch on the right are the same threads.”
After looking at it again today it appears they are not the same thread. |
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Found two sources that agree the thermo time switch threads are M14x1.5.
Google is wonderful. |
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Is this a leaking rocker shaft seal? It’s on the exhaust side at the front of the motor.
Notice the intake side is dark but not wet. ![]() ![]() Or is that large plug leaking? Thanks Last edited by Funracer; 03-20-2021 at 03:25 PM.. |
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Only 107,000 miles. Should last a lot longer. Does leaky = overhaul?
Last edited by Funracer; 03-20-2021 at 03:29 PM.. |
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I would think it is the freeze plug there. These engines are hard to keep from leaking. Have you ever read the engine sealant thread? It is years long and when I read it before rebuilding my 2.7 I still had questions on proper sealants for different areas of the engine. This was a few years ago, runs great still leaks some places, but it's also a mag case 2.7. You might have better luck with a 3.0.
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A fair exchange is no robbery.
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Quote:
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This reseal project began because I was unhappy with the amount of oil on my garage floor. My oil return tubes were in backwards (as pointed out by several sharpies earlier) so that was an obvious source and easy fix.
But a lot of oil was coming from up high on the number 6 cylinder corner. First thought is the oil cooler, but when I pulled it apart there was no evidence of a leak. But plenty of oil was between the cooler and the forward side of the motor: ![]() It looked like oil was escaping from the number 6 exhaust rocker shaft. This led me to order RSR seals. Today I put them on the 4-5-6 exhaust and intake rocker shafts. I took out 5 bone dry rocker shaft bolts but cylinder 6 exhaust bolt was soaking wet. Hard to take a good pic but you can see the shiny one on the left. ![]() Hopefully these seals will take care of that leak. Last edited by Funracer; 04-05-2021 at 09:43 AM.. |
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Been putting this day off but finally got it done. Cleaned out the engine bay with Dawn and brake cleaner, then stripped out the AC lines and charcoal canister lines.
After cleaning, replaced all the engine compartment perimeter seals and the sound barrier. White paint stained with oil and grease is tough to get spotless. To be perfect it needs new paint but thats not happening. Given the state it was in I am really happy how it turned out.
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That looks pretty good! I think I would lose my mind with a white engine bay, lol
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Counterclockwise?
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"charcoal canister lines"
Are they not for the evaporator system for the fuel tank?
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Rod 1986 Carrera 2001 996TT A bunch of stuff with spark plugs |
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I was under the impression that the charcoal canister and lines were necessary to keep your garage from smelling like fuels and more importantly your wife happy...?
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-Julian 1977 911 S: Backdate, EFI/ITB, AC project in the works: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1106768-when-well-enough-cant-left-alone-backdate-efi-itb-ac-more.html |
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Just did a search and read up on it. May to have to put it back in. Easy enough since I still have all the pieces. Thanks for the catch!
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Coming along!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() No show car for sure but much improved so far. Got to get a new coil bracket! |
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![]() ![]() ![]() These stainless heater valves, new hardware and hose are a nice upgrade. Really cleans up that area. |
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Wildman Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chitown Burbs
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Did you break/replace any of the studs holding the heat valves? Installation looks very good with the new hardware.
I have a set of rebuilt flappers waiting to go in when it's clutch time. Worried about breaking the old and rusty studs, even if soaked with PB or similar.Looks like a tough area to do any welding.
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Mike Andrew 1980 SCWDP 2024 Suby Forester 2018 BMW X1- Wife's 2000 Boxter - Sold |
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No broken studs thankfully. The old ones came off pretty easily.
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Update?
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