First Engine Drop
 

Done a lot on my 83 Cab the last year and I feel ready for my first engine drop.
Lots of info everywhere and lots of documentaries done on the subject so I am not really planning to add to that list of distinguished accomplishments.
However I thought I might post any interesting finds along the way and here is the first:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610910507.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610910507.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610910507.jpg

Looks like its been pretty useless for a long time. Those big crevices are on the upper side of the muffler and so not visible from beneath.

And now for my first question. Lots of info on doing an engine drop with large jack stands tilting the car forward. I have a scissor lift that will raise the chassis off the engine in a level attitude.
I am using the FCP Euro Blog because it has great pictures and detail and because it is using an 83SC for their tutorial which matches mine. Step 3 on their list is to drain the fuel tank. I don’t see this mentioned on any other threads on this subject, maybe because the cars are usually raised high up in the back. If the car will be level during this procedure do I have to drain the tank? As you might guess I would rather not if I don’t need to.
Thanks

No need to drain tank. Use a clamp to pinch off fuel line.

Engine drop........
 

Neil,

There are several ways to do an engine drop and you have to be adaptable to make some changes as you go along. I have a scissor lift like yours and this is not as versatile as a two-post lift. Over the years, I found a procedure to drop/install a 911 motor with ease using tools, gadgets, etc. available to me.

This is your first time and do not rush the job. Take your time and make a list of things needed to be done as a reminder. If you could find a helper to assist you, would be better than doing it solo. I always did it solo and I don’t recommend it for first time DIYer specially if you are using jack stands and floor jack to drop a motor.

You don’t need to drain the fuel tank to remove a 911 engine. Both the delivery and return fuel lines at the engine bay are higher than the fuel tank and will not allow fuel to drain out unless you run the FP. But you need to disconnect the battery cable (+). If you are using a specific guide for your engine drop, go over it and make sure you understand it. In case of doubt, just ask. There are hundreds of guys in this forum that could help and guide you.

This is one of the most memorable project you will remember with regards to your car. Stay safe and focus. Enjoy the experience.

Tony

Hi Neil here is a little write up i just did for one fella in Europe ..maybe it will help you a little

1.drain the oil from tank and engine.2.disconnect (right hand side -next to the oil tank) the oil line from engine oil pump to tank-36-32mm open wrench.Remove the S hose, tank to oil cooler -2 clamps use oil pan it will leak some oil out. I do not know if you have ssi system -and if you have crossover oil line.if yes disconnect it next to the oil cooler.

4.use circlip pliers to remove the little finger on the bottom of clutch arm.remove the finger with the spring and the big arm.5 remove the triangle bracket(for the clutch arm ) so you can get easier to the 15mm nut above (which holds the trans to the engine)

6.remove the other side 15mm nut on the trans.

7.(prior this disconnect the battery) disconnect the 13mm nut -starter red cable and the other yellow(what ever you have on starter)

8.use needle nose pliers disconnect the back up light cable from the switch and move away from the trans.

9.remove the heater hoses from heat exchanger -disconnect them

10.disconnect the throttle linkage from the trans bracket(just pry sideways with a screwdriver.

11.remove between the seat the cover and disconnect the shifter coupler -just the little allen head screw not the 13mm adjustment !!



Now the top

1.Remove the oil filter so you can access the breather hose behind it-disconnect it form the tank and the other on top of the filler too.

2.remove the el.plug on left side from the alu fuse box and wire for CD unit-plus white 2 wires connector under the CD unit-male and female

3.remove the heater hose which goes to the left heat exchanger so you can access the fuel lines and e.t.c. on the left side

4.disconnect the top of the fuel filter line .

5 disconnect the vacuum acu.bottom line.

6.disconnect the return line 14mm and 17mm open wrench right under the brake booster connection

7..get yourself nice floor jack with a round top-place it under the engine.I usually place it right in the middle of the strainer plate.It is a perfect ballance place - you will see later.

8.used air gun to disconnect the engine mounts bolts

9.lower the engine so you can reach over to the upper 15 mm nut one left top opposite the starter-remove it.

10 remove the 10mm allen head starter nut -while there disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle body joint

11.pull a little for the wire harness so you can see it free back up light switch and starter connections wires

12.your floor jack is placed exactly in the middle of the strainer plate

13.lower the engine more so the muffler will clear the rear valance and pull..it will come out easy.

14 once you have the engine sitting flat-disconnected from the trans. on your jack plate lower the engine or raise the car slowly -i do not know your set up...

Lots of digital photos as you go. Helps when trying to remember as you put things back together later.

ziplock bags with post-it notes to organize/separate parts. Again it helps when putting things back together.

I fold some heavy corrugated cardboard double, to place between the sump plate and my floor jack cup. You'll read lots of good suggestions/ideas of other protection for the sump plate. (Old phone books, etc.)

When using a floor jack, as opposed to your lift, the rear bumper won't be high enough to allow the engine to slide out, without removing the bumper. But if you leave the nose down, the bumper will be higher. Just enough to get the engine out. Not an issue with your lift.

I posted my engine drop a few years ago where i made a sling that connected to the engine mount attach points and i just lifted the rear of the car off the engine with my engine hoist , the trick was to raise the front of the car about one foot on blocks and the engine came out with plenty of clearance for the rear bumper.
There's lots of reading regarding engine drops ... whatever works best with the equipment you have on hand ...

Some methods are pretty sketchy , be safe !!!

Thanks Tony. I am looking forward to it.

Thanks. I will be using the FCP Euro series and YouTube vids and 101 Projects book to get this done in the next couple of days.
I am planning to drop both the motor and trans together. I have a scissor lift,
a HF lift table, engine stand with adapter and plenty of wood blocks.

Regards

Yup the FCP euro is a great site, well documented info and pics.
That's what I'm using and Wayne's book with Bentley and this
Forum. I'm doing the same in a sense on first time drop and rebuild.
My first Porsche that sat in the barn for a long time. Take your time
read lots of info prior to tacking the job and get a good torque wrench's.
Good luck!
Here's mine.. hope you don't mind me posting pics in your thread.
Current stage, almost done.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610955683.jpg
11 mos ago. I used motorcycle Jack.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610956383.jpg

Beautiful car color and your engine looks great.
I am not planning a rebuild, just engine compartment and motor cleanup and then the usual long laundry list of stuff to do when you get access to the front of the engine. Mostly oil leaks and gaskets and seals etc. If the motor looks worthy (in other words, no major issues) I will also spring for a new stainless exhaust. My plan is, as always, subject to change!

Will post more if I find anything interesting.

Regards

Whose idea was it to use Allen bolts on a CV joint? Jeez what a pain. Cleaned them, hammered the allen socket in, no luck. Now using vice grips. Thought I might get the engine on the stand today but now I will be happy to just get the CV joints out. Dremel is next if vice grips don’t work.

You sure they are not triple squares?
I always imagine running a string over my engine (like a jump rope) to see if everything is disconnected.

Back in the 70's at a dealership I'd use an air chisel or or a chisel and hammer to loosen the bolt by setting the chisel on the face and digging it in, always broke them loose. Lot's of times the allen head was stripped out.

Ah, the fun with the CVs , my theory is for easier access given the smaller head with the side benefit of less weight. Win-win.

Probably zapped in there with an impact. A brand new or newish Allen helps. Any misfit or misalignment and they will yield, the weight reduction ethos again.
Good luck !

About 10 years ago I had the same idea, and ended up with Wevo engine mounts when my rig pulled the rubber bushing out of the OEM mount,:rolleyes:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611003883.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611003883.jpg

Great idea. I got them out. Three were stripped inside the Allen socket and would not break lose even with vice grips. Ran up to the local auto store and bought these:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611014768.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611014768.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611014768.jpg

Absolutely worked like magic. Tapped them on with a hammer and even at an angle it backed all 3 out on the first try. The kit was a bit pricey $50 but they are well made and will make my life easier in the future. For this application you only need the 10mm socket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611015288.jpg

Wife says I have too many tools. Impossible!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611017708.jpg

Never had a problem popping these off the ball. This is the long one from under the car through the firewall into the engine compartment. A bit hard to access and it would not pop off no matter. Unfortunately it finally pulled the ball out of the engine bracket. Once it was out the ball was frozen in the cup.
PP sells the long throttle rod and cup end but I will need a to repair or replace the ball part as well.

Ken,
I used bigass washers, and i did change to Wevo semi hard mounts at the time.I had removed the engine mounts prior to using the sling ...