First Engine Drop

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Flojo

rinse with brake cleaner quick, then go next level with baken oven cleaner and a brush to rub in a bit.
though follow application rules.
don't let it soak too long on bare cast Aluminium (20-30 minutues should do the job anyway).

Great idea with the baking soda. I will do that at some point.

Thanks

[Pedro '84 Coupe]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Great news. Took the alternator out today, checked everything with a straight edge, no warping, no cracks, put it all back together works perfectly. My guess is when I pulled the cooling cone off the back of the alt it must have come forward just a bit enough to contact the shroud. That’s about $500 I don’t have to spend

That is good news!

Originally Posted by Funracer

Did some looking around last night. The Porsche priced tensioner kit that I had seen originally is $1200 per side, so $2400 total. The Sebro kit on PP is about $900 total for both sides which is at least sort of reasonable in the Porsche world.

Any issues with the Sebro kit?

Thanks

I'm not familiar with the Sebro kit but here's a link for a used kit (no affiliation to seller): Carrera tensioner upgrade setup

[Showdown]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/930105911912.htm?pn=930-105-911-912-INT

I just put these on my 77. $1500 for the pair.

[proporsche]

i wonder why is it so expensive if in Europe the whole kit costs 620 Euros??

Funracer, stick with your stuff .............

Ivan

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Showdown

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/930105911912.htm?pn=930-105-911-912-INT

I just put these on my 77. $1500 for the pair.

That kit does both sides for $735 doesn’t it?

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Pedro '84 Coupe

That is good news!


I'm not familiar with the Sebro kit but here's a link for a used kit (no affiliation to seller): Carrera tensioner upgrade setup

Purchased this today. Funny I check the parts for sale section every day and missed that. A few of the bits are missing from what he has for sale but all of those look to be available on PP.

I know I am taking a risk buying used but these are original Porsche parts and according to most people the failure rate on these tensioners is extremely small.

Thanks again for the tip!

[Funracer]

Ready to move to the engine stand.

Seems most people mount these on the passenger (right) side. Any down side to mounting on the drivers (left) side? I want to get at my oil cooler this will give me more room on that side.

Thanks

[proporsche]

remove the clutch..no need to have it on...
Ivan

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by proporsche

remove the clutch..no need to have it on...
Ivan

Afraid to! Never done it!

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Afraid to! Never done it!

Removes entire drive train from a vintage 911...

...deal breaker is clutch removal....

I'm dying...LOLOL

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

Removes entire drive train from a vintage 911...

...deal breaker is clutch removal....

I'm dying...LOLOL

Well when you put it that way its pretty funny. Hate leaving my comfort zone!

I am leaving town tomorrow until Monday. Really want to get the motor on the stand before I go.

Can I mount the yolk on the drivers side and still remove the clutch while its on the stand next week? If not I guess it comes off today!

[Funracer]

Eight came out no problem. The ninth one stripped inside the hex.

So not all that easy, unfortunately.

[911 Rod]

Man, you need better tools.
Are you using socket hex?

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

Man, you need better tools.
Are you using socket hex?

It’s an Allen socket. May not have been pushed in all the way.
Drilled it out and banged a larger star socket and got it out.



All 9 allen bolts are out. Pressure plate not moving. 101 Projects book says it should nearly fall off. That is not happening.

Can I put this on the engine stand with the yoke mounted on the drivers side and deal with it next week? I have to leave in an hour!

Thanks

[911 Rod]

If my memory serves me correctly, (ya right) if you have the better Porsche yoke you can still take it off. Not so with the cheaper or VW yoke. Can't you tell by just doing a trial mount?

[Funracer]

Mine was bought from Fleabay. Had to remove the exhaust crossover tube and now it mounts flush to either side. If there is no reason not to I want to mount it to the drivers side so I will have more access to the oil cooler.

It’s the orange one a few pics up the thread on this page

[proporsche]

what exactly is your work plan on this engine?
Once you relocate the yoke ,prior that remove the flywheel ,you will be most likely replacing the seal behind it right?
Are you doing a valve job or ?.......?

Ivan

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Afraid to! Never done it!

removing the clutch is important at that stage to:
a) control the clutch (still good?)
b) inspect the flywheel
c) inspect the crank seal behind flywheel

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by proporsche

what exactly is your work plan on this engine?
Once you relocate the yoke ,prior that remove the flywheel ,you will be most likely replacing the seal behind it right?
Are you doing a valve job or ?.......?

Ivan

My work plan is to inspect and repair/replace the following:

Drop and clean motor and engine compartment (done)
Engine to stand (not done yet)
Engine leak down and compression
Check head studs (already done this once but will retorque)
RSR seals (where to purchase these, I don’t think PP has them?)
ToD leaks
Return tubes replaced
Chain tensioners upgrade
Cam timing (not sure if this needs to be done)
Valves adjust with Snap Caps
Motor and Trans mounts
Injectors and sleeve O rings
Replace CSV O rings
Inspect airbox and CIS overall for air leaks and reseal (doing this now)
Oil cooler seals
Intake manifolds gaskets
Replace throttle plate bushings
Possibly have fuel distributor rebuilt
Possibly have fan/housing/strap refinished
Sound deadener replaced (done)
Inspect and lube dizzy
Lastly install all new exhaust

Generally to replace every seal, gasket and O ring that is accessible without opening the engine. Clutch was working well but since I have no maintenance history from the previous owner I will inspect and replace if necessary. I was unable to get the pressure plate off last night.

Not planning a valve job at the moment

I already have a large box of O rings and gaskets etc to get me going including shift shaft, flywheel and diff seals. Just need to get it on the stand and go go go!

I figure I will be done by next weekend!

Regards

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Flojo

removing the clutch is important at that stage to:
a) control the clutch (still good?)
b) inspect the flywheel
c) inspect the crank seal behind flywheel

I will do this. I was hoping I could do it on the stand with the P201 style adapter I am using.

Thanks