First Engine Drop

[Quasimoto]

Outstanding!
I was lucky to have the missus on hand to bump things around and that knocked down the number of trips my knees made to the concrete floor and back…

Looking forward to the first run around the block!

[Funracer]

Had one of these laying around:

Slid the rubber sleeve off and put it on the band clamp:

Protects the hose from the clamp edges somewhat. The clamp is not on very tight. Just enough to round out the kink. And it looks a tad less sketch than a bare clamp:

On to the next thing.

[Funracer]

Thought this would be tough to do. Watched Heidi and Franny do theirs and it made the whole thing a snap.


Does this conical set screw look like its in far enough? It’s a Wevo coupler. Took it apart 10 months ago and can’t remember how far down it goes. Seems like it should seat further down.


Thanks

[winders]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Does this conical set screw look like its in far enough? It’s a Wevo coupler. Took it apart 10 months ago and can’t remember how far down it goes. Seems like it should seat further down.


Thanks

As long as the screw is bottomed out in the shaft and the nylon material is covered by female threads you are good to go.

[Funracer]

How is the engine compartment surround rubber supposed to fit with the engine tin?
Both sides above the tin, both layers below the tin, or split upper and lower? My old rubber seal was falling apart and was all over the place. Both layers are currently above the tin. My fingers are separating them in this pic.

[RobFrost]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Does this conical set screw look like its in far enough? It’s a Wevo coupler. Took it apart 10 months ago and can’t remember how far down it goes.



Thanks

On my earlier car there's a hole in the shaft that it goes into. I'm sure you're aware of that. I don't have a Wevo shift so I can't say how that should look, but I'd try loosening and moving the linkage and retightening. Once the pin isn't in the hole, it will stick out a lot more. Then if you loosen, reposition, and find any position where it goes in further, you must be in the hole.


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[RobFrost]

Re the kinked hose, it looks like if you made the nearby pipe bend a touch more acute that would unkink the hose. You can get springs to insert in pipe to bend it without kinking. Probably too much trouble if it's all on now and filled with oil. Highly frustrating when you've paid good money for an assumed good quality product.

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[pkabush]

Originally Posted by RobFrost

Re the kinked hose, it looks like if you made the nearby pipe bend a touch more acute that would unkink the hose. You can get springs to insert in pipe to bend it without kinking. Probably too much trouble if it's all on now and filled with oil. Highly frustrating when you've paid good money for an assumed good quality product.

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Agreed. I wouldn’t be able to live with the hose clamp solution.
Everything else looks great though.

[Showdown]

One flap of the rubber seal above the tin, one below… a nice sandwich.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by Showdown

One flap of the rubber seal above the tin, one below… a nice sandwich.

Yep, and you'll almost for sure do it wrong and have to lift the engine up and down for a bit to get it right. Bring a long, blunt nosed screwdriver!

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by pkabush

Agreed. I wouldn’t be able to live with the hose clamp solution.
Everything else looks great though.

Yes the clamp is annoying but it works and I don’t have any pipe bending tools so it will be something I clean up later. Look at this:

New breather hose is at least an inch to short. The hose was not a lot of money but this kind of thing is just aggravating. Effectively all three of the oil hoses were just a bit too short, and now this one. I “made them fit” but for gosh sake it should not be this much trouble.

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by David Inc.

Yep, and you'll almost for sure do it wrong and have to lift the engine up and down for a bit to get it right. Bring a long, blunt nosed screwdriver!

Lucky for me the back edge is sandwiched perfectly thats just the way it went in!
But I will have to do some tucking on the sides.

Thanks!

[Funracer]

After 11 months finally got her started and running again today. Had 2 small oil leaks that just needed snugging at the fitting, no fuel leaks. Not perfect though. When I cleaned, lubed resealed the distributor back in the summer, on reinstall I felt like it was off a tooth. I pulled and reinstalled it several times and could not get it lined up perfectly. After awhile I thought it was close enough and it was my imagination and it was ok.

It was not. Today I could not turn the distributor clockwise enough to get timing set to 5 degrees BTDC. Note the pic before and after:

After:



Also rotor seems a bit off the mark at TDC:


I need to pull the distributor and rotate the tooth one clockwise? Either way I will get it figured out. Wish I hadn’t been so lazy when I put it back in about 6 months ago!

[Funracer]

If I rotate the housing CCW to my scribed lines the rotor does line up with the TDC mark on the housing. If I am definitely at TDC (#1 on compression and crank pulley on the Z1) then can I assume the distributor is in correctly and look elsewhere for my timing issue?

[Funracer]

Doh! The timing light is adjustable. I always forget about that. It was set on 15 BTDC.
Glad it was me being off and not the car!

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Yes the clamp is annoying but it works and I don’t have any pipe bending tools so it will be something I clean up later. Look at this:

New breather hose is at least an inch to short. The hose was not a lot of money but this kind of thing is just aggravating. Effectively all three of the oil hoses were just a bit too short, and now this one. I “made them fit” but for gosh sake it should not be this much trouble.

What also stinks about this hose is its not a hose you want to have pull pressure on all the time. It’s the very last hose on the car I would want to replace with the engine in.

[Funracer]

So I was getting excited because my car has been out of commission for 11 months. Engine is now back in the car and running great on the lift. The very last thing to do before taking it out for her first drive in nearly a year was install my new axles and CV joints. Got the drivers in easy. Passenger side in, 11 bolts in only one to go. Big car show Sunday here we come!!

And then this happened. My last new bolt with new schoor washer and moon plate attached would only thread in about half way. Tried to turn the wheel for better access, wheel will not turn. Loosened the other five for wiggle room, no luck. Took all bolts out and removed the axle again. Wheel locked like the brakes are on. See if you can tell what happened from this picture. These are the axle mounting bolts I took out 11 months ago. I always keep old stuff at least til the new stuff goes in:

The tip of one of the old bolts sheared off inside the threaded stub axle hole when I took them out in January. Now its jammed against something on the wheel side of the axle so the wheel won’t turn.

I’m thinking car show is out.

Any ideas on how to get that piece out without taking off the stub axle nut?

[RobFrost]

I'm very sorry but that job is going to be difficult even on the bench. Under the car - a recipe for doing more damage.

There's a reason it sheared - which is that the fragment is siezed in place.

You CAN go to the car show - but only by putting the one sheared bolt back in (assuming it's secure) and retrieving the fragment later.

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[Funracer]

Originally Posted by RobFrost

You CAN go to the car show

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I like your enthusiasm but the wheel won’t turn. When I put the other bolt in it moved the broken tip far enough to jam the wheel. Maybe it turned with the new bolt which may mean I can back it out somehow.

Argggg!

[RobFrost]

You likely need a bolt extractor. You drill it in, turning anticlockwise, it has reverse thread, and it bites in the bolt and unscrews it. But it's going to be a nightmare on the car as you have to keep it straight enough not to mangle the female threads in the hole. Also, those will be high tensile and not easy to drill. Also, the fragment will be a good way in, so the bolt extractor needs to be long enough.

Someone with more knowledge than I of the hub assembly will know what it's catching on and whether you can access from the other end with some disassembly.

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