Fixing that frozen clutch arm made a tremendous improvement in the pedal feel of my car...

Thanks for keeping this thread going, it’s great encouragement to those of us contemplating our first drop!

Got it! Went pretty smooth overall. I ended up taking the CV’s out completely just for the extra clearance. Except for bungling up the throttle linkage rod I managed not to break anything. The HF 500lb lift table and a few wood blocks really made for a stable decent. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611101244.jpg
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a couple of random notes from an old guy
 

Only done this a few times but been playing with cars for a long time.

- Plastic bags with tags are good but a bit fussy, I like some of the multi bin plastic organizers for dealing with all of the hardware.

- Keep a note pad and pen handy for making notes of damaged/missing/needed parts, or just to make notes about stuff that needs to get done, like fuel lines, missing parts, leaks, "as long as you are in there insights" - or other great ideas.

- When disconnecting the CVs, have 2 or 4 plastic sandwich bags handy to keep trash out of your CVs and grease off of you and your tools.

- As has been said, take photos, as you go along. This will help with wiring connections and hose routing.

- Preparedness, gloves, bins, paper towells, good lighting, safety items, cleanliness all help make the process more enjoyable.

Looking forward to getting back out to the shop.
:-) chris

Then the track :-) :-)

Nice going! Now the fun begins!

Now the cleaning begins!!

Yes that is the first thing. My wife has a small steam cleaner that I will start with. I don’t expect much out of it but lets try it first. Then on to low pressure washer and brushes and rags etc.

Of course, before that, I have to separate the trans and get the motor on the stand!

Good deal . Anything on Proporsche's list that he didn't cover? Seemed to be very comprehensive.

When I did mine it started with a scraper and then everything I could find before the final clean. The only time I used my pressure washer is when I took the gearbox outside.

Buy a couple of cases of brake clean and lots of blue towels. Beer too.

I think he may have thought I was going to drop just the engine so he talks about the 15mm bolts to disconnect the trans. I decided to drop both and then disconnect them after they were out.

Also he may have forgotten about disconnecting the inner side of the CV joints. I have heard you can tie the CV joints out of the way but once you get the inner bolts out the outer bolts are much easier to remove, so I just removed them entirely for the extra room underneath.

I used the FCP Euro blog for my guide for the drop. I highly recommend it, especially if you have a late SC because they use a 1983SC in their guide, same as my car only MUCH cleaner. Once I get the drivetrain cleaned, separated and on the stand, I will be using the ADDvanced YouTube series to guide me through the inspection and repairs.

Regards

Just a note to for newbies like me. the Never done a drop before but I had accumulated the things I needed ahead of time. Like the HF 500 lift table, stand, adapter etc so I never had to wait for anything once I started. I already had air tools, jacks, a lift etc. I have had the car for a year and been through a lot of it already, so almost all the steps in the drop guide I had already done before. When it said disconnect the 14 pin connectors, for example, I had already done that in the past while troubleshooting something else. Super easy step, especially if you have done it before. the first

Just saying it helps a lot if you know your way around the car a bit before you start, get everything you think you will need ahead of time, and leave yourself plenty of time to get it done. If its your first time (it was for me) plan on at least a full weekend. It took me one afternoon, the next day and done by 2 pm third day. For me the most difficult part was the inner CV joints in (as outlined earlier). Very doable and tons of help from the forum if you need it.

Now on to the fun of cleaning and diagnosing the various leaks that you will find. The in there list grows long quickly. It sounds like you have already addressed numerous problems already and your list will not be quite as long as others.
I spent the better part of a day just cleaning my trans and went thru about a case of Gunk in the process. Other than the triangle of death and oil return tubes, the engine was not too bad.
Looking forward to your progress reports.

FCP Euro is a great site. I did a complete how to on youtube, this was my first time pulling one as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W870A-EizDE

Edit: Nevermind, you got it! Right on man! Congrats! The photo standing in the empty engine bay is awesome and I'm pretty sure it's a requirement. :D

Ha, aw, shucks. :P

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I tried the brake clean method today and to be honest it just looks like this kind of job was made for a pressure washer. I bought an electric one today Amazon says it will be here Monday(!!) The oil tube on top of the breather pictured looks like the main culprit for this area but I will probably replace the other TOD gaskets and seals anyway. The red temp sensor looks dry on top at the crimp so I will leave that alone.

This oil line on top of the left side tensioner cover looks like it has a cut and pinched line on it. Am I missing an oil line somewhere?


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My first real issue as in maybe $$$. Check this out:

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I pulled the alternator and had it rebuilt locally about 6 months ago. Thread is on PP here somewhere with pics. Never noticed this while driving but my hearing is really bad from having a noisy job for 35 years. Removed the alternator today the fan is definitely scraping against shroud. Just barely, but definitely doing it. The alternator is seated firmly against the inner shroud seat.

Anyone seen this before? Is there a fix or is the shroud warped? Can’t pop the alt out of the case til Sunday or Monday.

Thanks

Looks like the fan housing may be cracked. You'll know for sure when you get the alternator out.

Great news. Took the alternator out today, checked everything with a straight edge, no warping, no cracks, put it all back together works perfectly. My guess is when I pulled the cooling cone off the back of the alt it must have come forward just a bit enough to contact the shroud. That’s about $500 I don’t have to spend

What is cracked is this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611446624.jpg

I will try JB weld first. Replace the screw with a bolt and nut. Couldn’t hurt and I have had much success with it elsewhere over the years.

Pulled this off and the gasket was totally gone, a few flakes of it remaining. Would this have contributed to any idle issues?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611446953.jpg

Thanks

What...have...I...done
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