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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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The common short shift kit in the mid-80s (when I got my '77) was from Automotion, and included the aluminum block, two longer bolts to deal with the block, and an end piece for the shift lever, which had the distance below the pivot increased by the thickness of the block, which changed the lever ratio and made it shorter. You removed (using heat) the stock end piece (the part with the ball end), and epoxied on the replacement part. Voila - a shorter shift. Nowadays there are better options. But I didn't have a problem with the reverse lock out on my car if I adjusted things properly. The problem I had was the epoxy breaking loose - maybe I didn't clean things up properly or something.
However, the right short shifter is the factory one, which is well designed. Several aftermarket ones are also well received, but add expense. Agree that it is highly unlikely anyone replaced the long tube. While that isn't hard to do with the transmission out of the car, nobody would put in an earlier one. This isn't a part which wears or otherwise fails. So everything points, as Sherwood says, to the helicopter part. If you just replace that with a stock one, with the good (not stock) bushings, everything will be fine. Less cost, shifts as it did. If you put in a stock bushinged coupler you will find the shifting sloppier than it was. While you are at it, whether you go to a stock shift lever or keep your short shifter, you should consider adding one of the several products which spring load the shift lever in the 3/4 plane when in neutral with hands off the lever. This greatly improves the feel of shifting - almost like a modern cable shift system. Some of these are pretty inexpensive, and one recent one - just a sort of spiral spring - doesn't require modifying anything. |
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Sherwood, the springs can stay? I saw a ss kit and It had shifter and springs .
My car has had this problem since I got it last year . I thought it was weird that there was no reverse lock out . I thought that was normal for the car . I only realized this problem when trying to adjust the seine kit that wasn’t working properly either . |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Quote:
![]() ![]() The kit includes only what is shown; the aluminum block and their version of the lower part of of the shift lever. The factory or OEM short shifter (below) you may have seen includes the relevant short shift pieces plus other parts that are essentially factory replacement pieces, not necessary for the short shift conversion. FWIW, those "extra" parts are the top carrier plate, the rubber buffer under it and the pivot pin. ![]() Hmm. You have some issues with your Gate Shift kit? Maybe you should contact the source for a possible solution. ![]() Sherwood seinetalk@yahoo.com Last edited by 911pcars; 01-29-2021 at 11:25 PM.. |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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I have a Seine on one of my my race car 915s. It works perfectly. The only thing which can be tricky is welding the tab to the shift lever - otherwise it is a bolt-on. You can omit the tab, at the expense of some transmission whine in 1st and 2d. Because I have a small welder, I welded the extra piece, which the tab engages, onto the stock steel plate, but of course you don't have to do that.
Take Sherwood up on his offer on this aspect of shift improvement. |
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I fixed the seine gate . They had the end play so tight the spring for the seine wouldn’t work .
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Walt , thanks for all your input . I think I will enjoy the seine kit now that I have repaired it . I also welded the new tab on . it was only attached by a hose clamp . Thanks for the advise on the coupler Sherwood . Don’t know why you call it a helicopter joint though. I will get a factory coupler with upgraded bushings and try that .
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Quote:
that nickname is commonly used..... by some. ![]() Glad you got that shifter contraption working. Sherwood |
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This joint is the creme de la creme of joints - no play, and sealed so no dirt can get in. Some aftermarket kits for improved shifting use it, with modifications for our cars. It is a really nice piece, but seems like overkill.
I'd keep it if the length issue can be resolved. I used to lust after them, and scheme about how to purchase one 'raw" and modify it, but realized that my home made tight urethane bushings in the otherwise stock coupler had things working as well as any coupler could. |
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Mine looks like the Stompski racing one , 200 bucks ouch . Utube video shows install is standard and no modifications necessary. So I’m still wondering about that darn tunnel shift rod . This car had a different 6 with carbs in one of the pictures I have, before the 3.2 , so no telling what trans was in it then . I’m pulling the motor / trans. hopefully this weekend again and will pull shift rod to verify 915 or 901 . Hopefully they have a part number somewhere on it .
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Thought you might ask. From a thread (or note) from Hayden Burvill awhile ago:
Quote:
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Great thanks !!
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
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Call or correspond with Steve Stomski. He stands behind his stuff, and may have some useful ideas about your problem here.
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There it is .... 901 shift rod . Lots of problems caused by These guys that put this car together. Glad to finally find the problem . I’m going to try and shorten it in the middle and weld it up . If that doesn’t work , used one .
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Just buy a 915 shift rod, they are out there.
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