EFI Troubles...Calling all EDIS Wizards

[jpgroth]

Hello All. I currently have a running SC that I converted to EFI and ITBs recently. Wasted (early) VAG COPs powered from Microsquirt. By running, I mean not running well at all. Its quite rich, backfires out the exhaust after I turn the car off and the motor shakes/vibrates at idle like a COP or two isn't firing. I am going to test each COP today to verify each one is firing and firing at the correct mark on my toothed wheel.

I dislike how the COPs look and fit so I have an EDIS set up ready to roll into the car once I throw in the towel on the COPs. I have the EDIS harness pretty much sorted out, just have a couple wiring questions..

1. I am wiring both 12V ignition wires from EDIS, pin 8 on ignition module and pin 4 on coil connector, to my former COP relay. Pin 87. Those two wires can both go to pin 87 on my COP relay correct? What should be used for the noise suppressor? Something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/c/751577378

2. Pin 2 on the EDIS ignition module should go to my tach (’79 SC)? Or I should disregard this wire and use the TACHOUT (MS Pin 35) to my tach? The EDIS chapter of the Micro V3 says pin 2 goes to IDM (?) in some places and isn't used in other places.

3. Pin 1 on the EDIS ignition module should go to MS Pin 30 (OPTO+) correct? Does MS Pin 31 (OPTO-) need to be grounded to the same location that I have the EDIS ignition module ground (Pin 9) to?

Thank you for the help!

[72911]

You might also look into the old Microsquirt forum (It is read only now). They have an Ignition Setup, Tuning and Troubleshooting section. New input has moved to Facebook. If you don't like Facebook you can post to the MSExtra forum.

MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018) - Index page

https://www.facebook.com/groups/185583595196282/

https://www.msextra.com/forum-info/

[rdimarco]

This worked for me. I wired tach to Pin 2 of module

[rdimarco]

[jpnovak]

Q1. Yes, Pin8 and pin 4 are both 12V switched. You can run from your existing relay. The noise suppressor is a capacitor to filter signal and prevent false reset on EDIS module MCU.

Q2. Use TachOut on Microsquirt. I never figured out what Pin2 does.

Q3. Connect the following. EDIS P1 PIP signal) to MIcrosquirt (VR-) EDIS P3 (SAW signal) to microsquirt IGNOUT1.

[jpgroth]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

Q1. Yes, Pin8 and pin 4 are both 12V switched. You can run from your existing relay. The noise suppressor is a capacitor to filter signal and prevent false reset on EDIS module MCU.

Q2. Use TachOut on Microsquirt. I never figured out what Pin2 does.

Q3. Connect the following. EDIS P1 PIP signal) to MIcrosquirt (VR-) EDIS P3 (SAW signal) to microsquirt IGNOUT1.

Thanks guys! Noted on Q1 & Q2.

Q3. EDIS P1 to Micro P33 (VR1-)? Picture above says EDIS P1 to Micro P30 (OPTO+ Coil Neg Tach In).

[jpgroth]

[shamrok]

Sorry to hear you're bailing on the COPs, but definitely sounds like a bad COP or misfire. I do agree, they are a bit unsightly and I'm looking at something a little lower profile.

[jpnovak]

The VR inputs are differential inputs looking for rising/falling edges. They also have the best signal filtering and isolation compared to the OPTOIN +/-. You can use either one as long as your FW settings match.

I guess the manual says the following:


Ampseal pin #12 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module
Ampseal OPTOIN+ pin #30 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module
Ampseal OPTOIN- pin #31 to the same ground location as the EDIS module (pin #9 or pin #10 depending on the module used).

[al lkosmal]

I've used the VR inputs with good results as Microsquirt VR sensor input and using the Microsquirt ABC ignition outputs to fire Smart COPs, ignitors with 2-wire Cops and to fire an EDIS-6 type coil.

That bring said, you really can't go wrong with the EDIS system......really works great and reliable......

I've also used the pin 2 EDIS as a tach input with good results....

I think that the noise suppression was installed on the Ford systems as a method to minimize radio interference.

[jpgroth]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

The VR inputs are differential inputs looking for rising/falling edges. They also have the best signal filtering and isolation compared to the OPTOIN +/-. You can use either one as long as your FW settings match.

I’m sure this is something simple..can you explain FW?

I’ll go with VR1- at first since that’s already wired to the bay.

Lastly, spark plugs? Standard WR5 or newer style NGK BCPR7ES? I’m using Crown Vic plug wires, just looking for a plug those wires seat nicely on. EDIS info states that it needs a resistor type plug, which I would assume both are due to the R in the name..

[jpnovak]

FW = firmware. i.e. the software settings done on the computer. Meaning, you have to tell the ECU that you have put the ignition input to VR. You also have to tell it that the output is IGNOUT. These will be in the ignition setup dialog box.


HW = Hardware. I.e. the mechanical parts of the system.

I use NGK plugs. The decision on heat range will depend on engine configuration. 6 is the hottest I would go. 7 is normal. 8 is almost too cold unless you live in very hot climate (Not Milwaukee) or running boost. Whichever you choose it is a good idea to run resistor type plugs for noise suppression. The BCP"R" denotes resistor plug

[jpgroth]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

FW = firmware. i.e. the software settings done on the computer. Meaning, you have to tell the ECU that you have put the ignition input to VR. You also have to tell it that the output is IGNOUT. These will be in the ignition setup dialog box.


HW = Hardware. I.e. the mechanical parts of the system.

I use NGK plugs. The decision on heat range will depend on engine configuration. 6 is the hottest I would go. 7 is normal. 8 is almost too cold unless you live in very hot climate (Not Milwaukee) or running boost. Whichever you choose it is a good idea to run resistor type plugs for noise suppression. The BCP"R" denotes resistor plug

That’s what I figured but wanted to make sure. I have most of the system installed, just wiring my ground to motor and feeding 12v through the car.

I’ve seen a couple different layouts on firing order on the coil pack. Is this correct? I have the coil pack mounted vertical with the electrical connector orientated at the bottom left

4 1

5 2

6 3

[jpgroth]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

FW = firmware. i.e. the software settings done on the computer. Meaning, you have to tell the ECU that you have put the ignition input to VR. You also have to tell it that the output is IGNOUT. These will be in the ignition setup dialog box.

Anywhere else to look for these ignition settings? I'm not finding anywhere to change them..

[jpnovak]

EDIS mode should take care of this for you.

[jpgroth]

Alright car is running again..but not any better. The first five or ten seconds started great and then the shaking came back. My AFRs pegged lean for a bit and then went rich. I can feel the shaking/knocking through the cabin. I locked ignition at 10 degrees and used my table, not much change in the shaking. It feels like a misfire on one or two cylinders.. All plugs are fresh and I verified that plug boots are on secure. What else would be causing this? Bad ground? Check TDC? There was only one way to mount my 36-1 toothed wheel so I'm assuming my wheel is orientated correct

[jpgroth]

I have the coilpack layed out like so...electrical connector for the coil pack is at the bottom left

4 1
5 2
6 3

[al lkosmal]

I've run into variations in the orientation/positions of the spark out terminals....also different coils/model/year....also plug orientation straight up or right angles, etc.
For example......here are illustrations of spark plug/post arrangements from my research......

The 1st illustration ,based on your description, is how you currently have the spark plug wires installed.
The 2nd illustration shows the a Ford coil with the coils in the opposite order. (Coil 1 =A, coil 2 =C, Coil 3 =B: firing order)..ignore the cylinder numbers on that one as it replates to the Ford))
It's not clear which coil you are using, but try swapping the 1,4 spark plug wires position with the 2,5 spark plug wire position that you are currently using.

[jpgroth]

Thanks Al. I have the second style with the 90 degree connector. If that wiring output on the 4 pin connector is true to all models, I don’t have 12v wired correctly. I have it reversed


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[Bigtoe32067]

Let us know if that fix it for you please.