Rebuilding Webers with no prior experience...?

[MrBonus]

So my Webers are sweating a hint of fuel that appears to be coming from the float chambers. They run strong but they just appear to be victims of inactivity.

I did clean the single Solex on my Ghia once with only minor difficulty (I accidentally dropped the jet into the bowels and had to shake it out) but otherwise, I'm armed with some YouTube videos and Pelican how-tos and a renewed eagerness to learn.

I'd really like to learn how to do this on my own but I'm also terrified of making a mistake.

Is this a project worth tackling? Will I enter the world of immediate regret? This isn't a cost-thing, more of a "I really want to know how this works" thing.

[jpnovak]

webers are simple. Just keep track of where each part goes. They are kinda hard to mix up. Best to completely take apart, soak in degreaser (cleaner) and then use compressed air to clean all passages. I have a small HF ultrasonic bath for cleaning all the jets. Make sure they are spotless. TarnX (silver cleaner) will bring back the shine on all the brass jet components.

Put it back together with all new gaskets.

The challenge will be to set the mixture and rebalance after you have disassembled.

This thread has one of the best descriptions of the process.

Weber rebuild

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

webers are simple. Just keep track of where each part goes. They are kinda hard to mix up. Best to completely take apart, soak in degreaser (cleaner) and then use compressed air to clean all passages. I have a small HF ultrasonic bath for cleaning all the jets. Make sure they are spotless. TarnX (silver cleaner) will bring back the shine on all the brass jet components.

Put it back together with all new gaskets.

The challenge will be to set the mixture and rebalance after you have disassembled.

This thread has one of the best descriptions of the process.

Weber rebuild

Thank you, Jamie!

I'm trying to make a list of uncommon tools I wouldn't have in my normal box too. I don't want to be in the middle of it and have to stop to run out then forget what I just did.

[jpnovak]

Do you have a Synchrometer to setup the balance? Need one. I prefer 2 so that I can put one on each side...

Otherwise, Make sure your screwdrivers have very square tips and fit well in the jets. The brass is soft and can strip easily with the wrong tools.

[TracyC]

Sent you a PM

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

Do you have a Synchrometer to setup the balance? Need one. I prefer 2 so that I can put one on each side...

Otherwise, Make sure your screwdrivers have very square tips and fit well in the jets. The brass is soft and can strip easily with the wrong tools.

I don't have a Synchrometer and that was on my list, as was making sure I have a good tub and the right degreasers to bathe them in.

I have way too many screwdriver sizes for a variety of computer and car projects so I'm probably good there.

[Quickstep192]

I did it with zero experience when I first got my car. Most of the parts only fit in one place. It's still good to remember where they go though. It's easiest if you remove them from the car first.

[spyerx]

I chose to let my shop do this one. I’ve done carbs before but these things are just finicky.
These are off the car now getting sorted. They don’t need a full rebuild but off to get the shaft bushings replaced. Loose.
Then engine is off to dyno for post break in build full jetting and tuning.
Hope to work out a dead zone at 2-3k

2.5 short stroke build in my 914-6

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by Quickstep192

I did it with zero experience when I first got my car. Most of the parts only fit in one place. It's still good to remember where they go though. It's easiest if you remove them from the car first.

Haha, yes, I would absolutely remove them from the car and do it in my workshop in the basement. It's nice to hear other inexperienced owners have done this. The how-tos don't look particularly difficult, but it seems like there are a lot of pitfalls to the process (like accidentally disturbing the throttle plates/shafts) that can derail the project.

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by spyerx

I chose to let my shop do this one. I’ve done carbs before but these things are just finicky.
These are off the car now getting sorted. They don’t need a full rebuild but off to get the shaft bushings replaced. Loose.
Then engine is off to dyno for post break in build full jetting and tuning.
Hope to work out a dead zone at 2-3k

2.5 short stroke build in my 914-6

Beautiful! Like a work of art.

As compared to mine which have lightly browned from fuel.

[MrBonus]

Here are mine.




Also, I think I may run a bottle of Techron through the system first and see if it cleans things up. Since I've been driving it (the car was driven sparingly previously), I'm not noticing any real new accumulation of fuel on them.

[chrismorse]

I was doing a major service on my old 308 and slid even further down the slope. Timing belts led to valve adjustments, well, might as well pull the Webers to make more room - might as well go through them while there off - never done them before.

So, a few suggestions:
Take pictures of the carbs before you start shredding them. It is nice to have a reference when putting bits of linkage and pieces back on.
Use some of those partitioned parts bins to corral the parts, springs, screws and jets. One box per carb.
Do the disassembly/ assembly on a cookie sheet or lipped tray - many of the little gubbins have suicidal impulses to jump off of the bench and hide under things.
If the carbs throttle shafts have open sided ball bearings, replace them with sealed bearings.
When reinstalling and staking the throttle plate screws, use a phillips screw driver in a vise to back up the screw to be staked, so the shaft doesn't take the force of the staking effort. It helps to have another hand or two to stabilize the carb for this process.
Wear safety glasses and have good light - a comfortable stool helps as well. Getting a small shot of Berryman's Chem tool in the eye is no fun.
Using the idle air bypass screw to equalize the flow through each throat is more easily managed with a manometer with as many tubes a cylinders, (I used two 4 cylinder motorcycle manometers duct taped together, so i was able to do all 8 cylinders in one go). This allowed the idle air flow to be equal on all throats, then using a synchronometer for the syncing of the carbs linkage.
I'm about to give this a try on some PMO ITBs. Don't know if the lack of a vacuum signal to the MS box will allow this. Worth a try.
I was able to source more jets, sealed bearings and carb parts from Pierce Manifolds - good outfit, hope the're still in business.
chris

[jpnovak]

I would not remove the throttle plates. No reason to unless you have to address shaft bushings. They can stay on for a general cleaning.

[juanbenae]

these could not hurt if you don't already have them.

[Carl S.]

NICE,
I will be rebuilding my Webers as well.
Pierce Manifolds still sells a rebuld kit. I spoke to them a week ago about it.

Pretty cheap as well.

I have not done this yet, I plan on setting up a GoPro to video it if I run into tricky areas. Take lots of pictures and notes.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by MrBonus

So my Webers are sweating a hint of fuel that appears to be coming from the float chambers. They run strong but they just appear to be victims of inactivity.

I did clean the single Solex on my Ghia once with only minor difficulty (I accidentally dropped the jet into the bowels and had to shake it out) but otherwise, I'm armed with some YouTube videos and Pelican how-tos and a renewed eagerness to learn.

I'd really like to learn how to do this on my own but I'm also terrified of making a mistake.

Is this a project worth tackling? Will I enter the world of immediate regret? This isn't a cost-thing, more of a "I really want to know how this works" thing.

Are you describing fuel leaks from the accelerator pump housing? If that's the extent of it, why not just fix the leak with a new gasket (or tightening the screws)? Do your carbs need cleaning (the working circuits inside)? Do you have any driving symptoms traceable to the carbs not working correctly?

If not, the gaskets can be replaced in situ (it's a tight access). You can begin the learning curve by removing one carb at a time and repair the accelerator pump leak. Reinstall it using the other side as a guide, then confirm the repair by turning the key to make sure everything works. Once success is declared, do the other side, if needed. BTW, with the carbs removed, that's a good time to clean the exterior. The gasket repair by itself won't affect any existing mixture or idle settings, but go ahead and tackle carb air sync and idle settings after confirming the engine starts and runs well.

If not, save the start-from-scratch rebuilding curve until the carbs need it or if you have an itch to perform it anyway. If you do as I suggest, you'll have conquered lesson one, R&Ring the carbs with minimal impact.

I wouldn't suggest rebuilding until you learn how to adjust them. Here's an illustration of the parts you need to keep track of. Repair shops hate working on basket cases, but they might with an added surcharge.





Sherwood

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Are you describing fuel leaks from the accelerator pump housing? If that's the extent of it, why not just fix the leak with a new gasket (or tightening the screws)? Do your carbs need cleaning (the working circuits inside)? Do you have any driving symptoms traceable to the carbs not working correctly?

If not, the gaskets can be replaced in situ (it's a tight access). You can begin the learning curve by removing one carb at a time and repair the accelerator pump leak. Reinstall it using the other side as a guide, then confirm the repair by turning the key to make sure everything works. Once success is declared, do the other side, if needed. BTW, with the carbs removed, that's a good time to clean the exterior. The gasket repair by itself won't affect any existing mixture or idle settings, but go ahead and tackle carb air sync and idle settings after confirming the engine starts and runs well.

If not, save the start-from-scratch rebuilding curve until the carbs need it or if you have an itch to perform it anyway. If you do as I suggest, you'll have conquered lesson one, R&Ring the carbs with minimal impact.

I wouldn't suggest rebuilding until you learn how to adjust them. Here's an illustration of the parts you need to keep track of. Repair shops hate working on basket cases, but they might with an added surcharge.


Sherwood

Sherwood,

Thank you for all of this. So my car runs very strong but the fuel pump gave up the ghost a few days after taking possession which I replaced with the appropriate low pressure rebuilt Porsche unit. Shortly after changing the pump, I get occasionally (rare) light backfires and some very minor hesitation, but I'm noticing these issues less and less with each passing mile since replacement. A little Pelican searching indicates that may be the product of an exhaust leak and the aging Dansk muffler does in fact have some rust/holes and will be replaced with an M&K muffler as soon as it arrives.

As for the carbs themselves, I'm trying to track down the leaks and determine if they're even current or just old gunk/accumulation. I just cleaned up the exterior "gunk" a few days ago and plan to drive it for a few days when I get a few minutes and see if more fuel accumulates. If they are still leaking, it is very, very slowly.

The car runs so well that I wasn't anticipating having to do a full rebuild, but carbs are somewhat intimidating to me, so I was taking a "prepare for the worst" approach. I just ordered a few books on Webers that I plan to read before even beginning to mess with anything but I appreciate your advice to start slowly and learning tuning before I start tearing into 100s of tiny pieces of which I am entirely unfamiliar.

[MrBonus]

Question - Should I be concerned with exhaust overrun? I just swapped to an M&K muffler, which sounds amazing by the way, and off throttle between 4-5k RPMs, I get a glorious set of burbles and pops.

I hope the answer is "this is fine" because it sounds heavenly.

[jpnovak]

Normal for small pops and burbles... if you get really loud bangs then not normal.

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

Normal for small pops and burbles... if you get really loud bangs then not normal.

Oh good. No, no loud bangs, but far more noticeable with the smaller muffler.