Any know ho me to restore heater control boxes?

[aliimam]

Dropped the engine, rebuilding and taking care of the car in general bit by bit. I took out the control boxes, and they look fine, but paint is flaking and just need a little refresh. Trouble is, I can’t seem to find any instructions on how anyone else has done it. I got them apart, but cannot find the plastic spacers to replace, or what I should consider to paint with. I’m assuming powder coat will be too thick? Por15?



They are >$100 a piece, I’d rather fix em up then have to replace. Any tips appreciated.

[scootergt3]

i think you can get the springs, spacers and gaskets at sierra madria.

as for the paint, i think i used vht primer.. its close to a perfect match.

[shadowjack1]

The plastic parts are called bearings if I remember correctly.

[Dpmulvan]

I blasted mine to bare metal and powder coated them with an epoxy powder.

[aliimam]

Originally Posted by scootergt3

i think you can get the springs, spacers and gaskets at sierra madria.

as for the paint, i think i used vht primer.. its close to a perfect match.

Ooh, I didn’t see them on SM. I’ll take a closer look. Thanks for the pointer!

I’ll look into vht, we’re you able to get inside decently well?

[aliimam]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

I blasted mine to bare metal and powder coated them with an epoxy powder.

Sounds like powder will work! The buildup is not too thick to put it all back together? Did you have to file the shaft to fit the butterfly valve?

[ian c2]

Scott Longballa had a thread either here or early S IIRC

[aliimam]

Originally Posted by ian c2

Scott Longballa had a thread either here or early S IIRC

Thanks for the pointer! Just found it https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?69939-The-restoration-of-9112300023&p=619623&viewfull=1#post619623
He called them “flapper boxes”

I should extend my search. Not much detail here, but I guess paint would work.

[aliimam]

A little more looking with some hints here, I found Stoddard has:

Heater Box Control Springs:
https://www.*************/99952201301.html.html

And Heater Valve Sleeves:
https://www.*************/90121125521.html

These look to fit the rebuild.

[Ctopher]

I would paint or have them painted with cerakote after blasting them. The paint is only mils thick and will survive the heat easily and look the same for years. I have a Big Green Egg cast iron vent cerakoted and it has survived years outside in the sun and weather along with 700deg temps and still looks as new as the day I got it back from the coater. The heater boxes won’t go though that much in their lives.


CTopher

[Funracer]

I’m a fan of Cerakote but by the time you pay someone to blast and cerakote them you could probably buy these, no paint required:




Stainless. Shop around mine were about $120 each. PP sells the little cable attachment hardware kits cheap too.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by Funracer

I’m a fan of Cerakote but by the time you pay someone to blast and cerakote them you could probably buy these, no paint required:




Stainless. Shop around mine were about $120 each. PP sells the little cable attachment hardware kits cheap too.

You paid $120 each for those to be Cerakoted?

[pocketscience]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

You paid $120 each for those to be Cerakoted?

No, my reading of his post was they are new stainless steel units he bought for $120..

[boxer246]

I restored mine a few years back, well actually I bought a good used set as my originals were rotted out beyond repair. The used ones I bought seemed to have kind of a galvanized coating on the steel under the paint. There was no rust just dirty and peeling paint. So i decided to just clean them and scuff them for paint prep instead of sandblasting them which would have removed the galvanizing I believe. I used a high temp primer followed by just rattle can Rustoleum I believe, I found a color that was a dead ringer for the original.
When I go to my shop tomorrow I’ll see if I can find the can to let you know the paint code.
They turned out really nice and have held up well.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by pocketscience

No, my reading of his post was they are new stainless steel units he bought for $120..

Read it more carefully, thanks.

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by pocketscience

No, my reading of his post was they are new stainless steel units he bought for $120..

Correct. No paint or Cerakote needed. Ever.

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

Read it more carefully, thanks.

Just giving the OP another option.

[aliimam]

Originally Posted by boxer246

I restored mine a few years back, well actually I bought a good used set as my originals were rotted out beyond repair. The used ones I bought seemed to have kind of a galvanized coating on the steel under the paint. There was no rust just dirty and peeling paint. So i decided to just clean them and scuff them for paint prep instead of sandblasting them which would have removed the galvanizing I believe. I used a high temp primer followed by just rattle can Rustoleum I believe, I found a color that was a dead ringer for the original.
When I go to my shop tomorrow I’ll see if I can find the can to let you know the paint code.
They turned out really nice and have held up well.

Thanks!

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by Funracer

Just giving the OP another option.

it's a great option. I'm working on a custom brick Cerakote color next week for these.

[Ian Comerford]

I went stainless a couple of years ago, fit and forget and one less thing to worry about