Help - neatrix install

[Fritz]

I am feeling pretty dumb right now.

Got new neatrix bushings on the new (used) adjustable spring plates, new 26mm sway away torsion bars and the settings from the calculator.

Everything was going real easy until I went to slide the springplate up. The neatrix bushings are so tight/big how do I get them to start into the frame?

I've really tried but it is a tight fit (please, I've heard the walrus and tupperware joke way too many times).

[MBAtarga]

Fritz,

I went through this same project a few months ago, and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about.

Did you happen to install a bump steer rack/washer kit recently? In my kit, two different lengths of bolts were included. The bolt length I did not use on my SC are the same diameter/pitch as the bolts that originally attach the spring plate to the chassis, but they are fortunately about 20mm longer. I used these bolts(2) on opposite sides of the spring plate to get the neatrix bushing started into the torsion bar holes. Once you get it started, these longer bolts can be removed, and the original bolts can then be installed. Otherwise, a quick trip to a local hardware store that stocks metric bolts might be the solution.

[KTL]

Mark's advice is very good. Get some longer bolts to draw the plate bushing into the opening in the chassis. Don't try to use the short, original bolts because you can cross-thread things very easily.

If you don't have longer bolts handy, some silicone spray and a rubber mallet works too. Though not nearly as well as longer bolts! The mallet is kinda hard to swing inside the fender!

[Rick Lee]

Ditto what the others said. Been there, done that. Not fun.

[Neilk]

Fritz,

You may need two sets of longer bolts to install the spring plates.

I will anticipate your next question. Don't worry after you finish with the spring plates and find your car about 1 inch too high. After 20+ miles, the car will drop at least 1 inch.

[ckelly]

use some silicone grease, like "slip stick", a good coat of that and a good push and it should start on and slide into place with a little help. I set mine right at the calculated angles, only dropped about 1/2 inch after a couple miles. 2 days of DE and still sits just where I left it.

[ohecht]

I am trying to do the same replacement, but I can't get the spring plate off. Is there some trick to it?

I did not want to force it too much.

Olivier

[North Coast Cab]

I just came in from the garage after changing spring plate bushings on one side. Some of the bolts were a major pain to break loose. Once you get them off you can grab and wiggle and pry behind the bushing part to get the plate off. Cutting the bushing off is a little pain but relatively straight forward. I took every bolt off, cleand and coated with never seze so adjustments will be easy. Getting back together is a little tricky but a few longer bolts and a second jack or jack stand to push the spring plate into alignemnent are essential. Also, set the ride height bolts in the middle so you have good adjustment either way. Good luck.

JG

[BGCarrera32]

Good advice. Did this last stuff last week. PITA when you have to pry the arms back off to change a few splines eh?

Be careful with excessive amouts of antiseize on the big eccentric bolt and the securing bold closest to the bushing on the arm. Anti-seize can alter the ability to correctly torque a bolt. Mr. Bennet reported in a recent thread that a friend had those eccentric bolts slip back there and it sounded like a shotgun went off when the radius arms bottomed out...

FYI, upper big bolts (eccentric and securing) 180 ft. lbs.
toe and camber 12mm hex eccentrics 61 ft. lbs.
the 2 bolts at the end of the arm that go through trailing arm 90 ft.lbs.

-BG

[marcesq]

Before you start using force on the new bushings, make sure that you have cleaned the inner diameter of the torsion tube and the outer diameter of the spring plate arms completely. Any "left overs" will cause the bushing to be slightly compressed or, in the case of the spring plates expanded. Either will increase the difficulty of your job.

I use moly based grease (CV) rather than the plastic bushing lube (just because I dislike the stuff and I get my hands full of it everytime it is used and if you have to re-index you will know why).

I would not any thread lube on any of the bolts associated with the spring plates.

[Chuck Moreland]

Use only silicon grease to ease the installation. Better yet, use a soap and water solution.

Regular grease, including moly grease, will break down the rubber in the neatrix in short order.