Front rotor replace

[thsupernge]

Looking to do the front rotors, pads etc for my 88. The tech articles say to remove the clip that holds the hard line to the flex but not sure how that is done. It doesn't seem to have a notch where it slides out.

I know there is an easy answer but Im missing something.

[thsupernge]

[brianlay]

No clip there. Need to break the line

[Tea Tray]

Now might be a good time to consider replacing the flex hoses. The attached active thread might be incentive.
I recently did my ‘87 and all the fittings came loose without issue.
Brake Bleed Problem ‘83 911SC

[HarryD]

As I recall you disconnect the hose at the caliper, release the clip and pull it through. Or if May be that you disconnect the hose from the hard line once you release the clamp.

[chrismorse]

You can unbolt the caliper from the strut and use a coat hanger to hang the caliper out of the way, giving you full access to the disc/hub assembly.

If the flex lines are original to your 88, it is probably time to replace them.

If you are ging to disconnect the steel/flex line and you have recently flushed the brake system, you might want to use a stick or bar of some kind to depress the brake pedal, so you dont completely gravity bleed that end of the brake system on to the floor, or into a container you have thoughtfully placed to collect the fluid. New fluid is cheap.

If the system is all still original, dont depress the brake pedal to the floor, or you might cut the MC seal on the trash/rust that has accumulated in the MC bore,over 40 years of use.

When replacing the disc on the hub, it is appropriate to torque the nuts/bolts, then repack/replace the bearings. I would take one step further by running a dial indicator on the rim of the disc to ensure that the run out is within spec, or have it trued. You could try unbolting the disc from the hub and rotating it one or two studs and rebolt/recheck the run out - if all else fails, have it trued on a brake lathe - I think the spec is .006-.008 run out max, but look it up.

good luck,
chris

[thsupernge]

Awesome guys, really appreciate it. I had forgotten it was such an ordeal. How on earth would you swap rotors in a racing situation back in the day? After several hours in the pits someone had to come back to the engineers and said "Nein!"
I got the pads and sensors done, that was easy.

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Tea Tray

Now might be a good time to consider replacing the flex hoses. The attached active thread might be incentive.
I recently did my ‘87 and all the fittings came loose without issue.
Brake Bleed Problem ‘83 911SC

I remember seeing this when you had the issue, thanks for the link!

[Reiver]

A 'while you are there'....how are your front bearings/races? Not a hard job considering you'll have everything out in the open....

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Reiver

A 'while you are there'....how are your front bearings/races? Not a hard job considering you'll have everything out in the open....

I will definitely check!

[DaytonaCoupe66]

That clip is open on one end and slides into place with compression. Look on Pelican for a photo of a replacement and you'll see. Gentle with a flat head screw driver will coax it to slide off. Rubber brake lines are cheap consumables and an easy replacement - just make sure that you have the proper wrenches so you don't destroy the hard line fittings. I've looked at your photo again and don't see the slot so perhaps yours are a repurposed item from another car. The internet shows the slotted version for a 1988 911. You may have to remove the hard line in which case the rubber line will slide backwards out of the bracket. If you are keeping the car there's no time like to present to tackle the rubber lines.

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

That clip is open on one end and slides into place with compression. Look on Pelican for a photo of a replacement and you'll see. Gentle with a flat head screw driver will coax it to slide off. Rubber brake lines are cheap consumables and an easy replacement - just make sure that you have the proper wrenches so you don't destroy the hard line fittings. I've looked at your photo again and don't see the slot so perhaps yours are a repurposed item from another car. The internet shows the slotted version for a 1988 911. You may have to remove the hard line in which case the rubber line will slide backwards out of the bracket. If you are keeping the car there's no time like to present to tackle the rubber lines.

Yeah no slot. I'm going to order the lines, block off the weekend and knock it out soon

[thsupernge]

Any tricks to the hub reinstall? I know if too tight it can bind and too loose it will wobble with the extra play...

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by thsupernge

Any tricks to the hub reinstall? I know if too tight it can bind and too loose it will wobble with the extra play...

When you first install the hub back in place after repacking grease (and possibly changing out bearings) tighten it up to seat everything then back it off to start your process. I do as the Bently's suggests. Tighten until the washer under the 'nut' assembly can be moved with a screw driver tip.
Myself, I tighten a tad more than that but the washer still moves.
You can do a quick check by mounting a tire and see if you have play l/r...

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Originally Posted by thsupernge

Yeah no slot. I'm going to order the lines, block off the weekend and knock it out soon

I was putting some parts from last years brake work away today and came across a new spare version of that very item. Triggered my memory that the back are notched and the front are as your appear. My front ones were rusty as was the hard line fittings. I ordered the lines from Porsche but only realized the clip was boogered when I separated the parts. Searched the part number and bought several from the local VW dealer. Interchangeable it appears. Cheaper and they were in stock.

[Nick Triesch]

Measure your rotors. If they are still in spec, many shops can turn them with the wheel on. I had mine done two years ago and they stop perfect.

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Nick Triesch

Measure your rotors. If they are still in spec, many shops can turn them with the wheel on. I had mine done two years ago and they stop perfect.

Exactly. I got a nice scuff on them and they are within spec so at least good for now

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

I was putting some parts from last years brake work away today and came across a new spare version of that very item. Triggered my memory that the back are notched and the front are as your appear. My front ones were rusty as was the hard line fittings. I ordered the lines from Porsche but only realized the clip was boogered when I separated the parts. Searched the part number and bought several from the local VW dealer. Interchangeable it appears. Cheaper and they were in stock.

Yeah these are strange, a clip with a hole in it. I have seen the others but not on this car...

[Walt Fricke]

You can remove the rotor/hub without removing the brake line from the caliper or this connection at the strut. The hard line can stand a bit of flexing, and after you have removed the outer bearing you have a bit of extra movement available to get the caliper (which you have unfastened) off.

Lately, I have taken to cutting a slot in the tab on the strut, mainly to facilitate taking the strut off and putting it back on, though it gives you more play for replacing a rotor. A zip tie works fine to hold things in place. Doing this kind of work without opening up any brake line fittings can save a lot of extra work.

If there is a down side, it would be that the line fittings have more time to rust or otherwise stick together, and when they need to be removed there is a tendency to blaspheme more.

[thsupernge]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

You can remove the rotor/hub without removing the brake line from the caliper or this connection at the strut. The hard line can stand a bit of flexing, and after you have removed the outer bearing you have a bit of extra movement available to get the caliper (which you have unfastened) off.

Lately, I have taken to cutting a slot in the tab on the strut, mainly to facilitate taking the strut off and putting it back on, though it gives you more play for replacing a rotor. A zip tie works fine to hold things in place. Doing this kind of work without opening up any brake line fittings can save a lot of extra work.

If there is a down side, it would be that the line fittings have more time to rust or otherwise stick together, and when they need to be removed there is a tendency to blaspheme more.

That's a really good idea. Let me know if you have a pic somewhere that shows what you did.