Distributor

[byfdinky]

Hi All,

Can the distibutor be taken out and remounted?

The engine will not run, have fuel and spark. Could it be the timing is off and that is what is causing the no start?

[masterdave]

Before you go pulling the distro, you can check the timing with out taking any thing apart. Im not sure how to do it on these engines but there should be a TDC mark or some way of knowing that its at TDC, some where. If you have a Haynes or Bently manual it should tell you. Turn the engine until you are there, then pull the distro cap off and make sure its pointing the right direction(at the contact for cylinder 1). If you do pull the distro make sure you mark it so that you can put it back the same way.

Has the engine ever run? or did the car come to you in this way? A bit more info on the shape of the engine, or maybe some other reasons why it may not run may help us figure this out.

Best,
Dave

[byfdinky]

Thanks for the reply.

The engine has been rebuilt and the mechanic could not tune it because the Bitzracing EFI kit He got frustated and quit working on it.

Fuel pressue is at 36lbs.

All wiring to the Wide band Oxy Sensor and to the ecu has been checked.

Seems to run when the key is in the start position but when let go it will not continue.

[shadowjack1]

From the picture the distro is adjusted all the way to one side, I would think that it should be moved to the center somewhat as to allow for further adjustment. Losen the nut and as someone turns the engine over adjust the distro until it runs.

[boyt911sc]

Turn the crankshaft pulley to TDC @ Z1. The distributor rotor should be pointing to the 'notch marker' (cylinder #1). You could rotate/adjust the rotor's position left or right. But if is pointing 180° from #1 cylinder (marker), that's the time to pull it out and re-set. Another quick way to check for ignition is to use an inductive timing light. HTH.

Tony

[bfunke]

Rotate crank until TDC on the compression stroke of #1. Remove dizzy cap and look at position of rotor. While there check for excess shaft play and also smoothness of advance mechanism. Look at the inside of the cap general condition to be sure no gouging or carbon tracks. The fact your at the end of the timing adjustment makes me wonder if your dizzy is not installed one tooth off on the gear.

[al lkosmal]

If you have fuel and spark....................follow Dave's and Tony's advice and get the crank to TDC. Z1 on the crank pulley should align with the notch in the fan housing. Check that the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire position on the distributor cap. If it points to the number 4 position, continue to rotate until the notch and number 1, line up. If, when you have the Z1 notch lined up and the rotor is still not pointing to number 1 spark plug wire position, then you should pull the dizzy out and rotate the rotor, until it is pointing to the number 1 position and re-install. The rotor will rotate a bit more, as you install, due to the dizzy gear, mating to the drive, so this may take you a try or two.
(Note: double check that the spark plug wires are routed correctly...this is a common issue and if your mechanic was frustrated, confusion may have occurred.)

Also.....Megasquirt requires a good, solid tach signal to fire the injectors with the proper timing. It also typically requires a good Manifold Air Pressure Signal (MAP)....and it may be set up to also use the O2 sensor input for air/fuel input.

try the simple stuff 1st and then check back.

regards,
al

[byfdinky]

Thanks again for the help. Will check TDC and report back

[masterdave]

I had the same issue with the key on my 924s. It turned out it was the key mechanism its self. It ran when it was in the start position but when released the contacts would fall out of place and there would be no electrical power driven to the car. I ended up bypassing the key start with a switch but you can replace the tumbler as well.

[Eagledriver]

Beware that the rotor can point at number 4 or number 1 when at TDC. You need to make sure which is which. You'll need to pull the number 1 spark plug, or the intake valve cover on number 1. TDC for number 1 is when number 1 is compressing the air in the cylinder, so it will be pushing air out the spark plug hole (it will feel "soft" when you turn the engine by hand because you are lettin the air out). If you look at the intake valve it will be closed at TDC and beyond.

-Andy

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Turn the crankshaft pulley to TDC @ Z1. The distributor rotor should be pointing to the 'notch marker' (cylinder #1). You could rotate/adjust the rotor's position left or right. But if is pointing 180° from #1 cylinder (marker), that's the time to pull it out and re-set. Another quick way to check for ignition is to use an inductive timing light. HTH.

Tony

+1

Originally Posted by bfunke

Rotate crank until TDC on the compression stroke of #1. Remove dizzy cap and look at position of rotor. While there check for excess shaft play and also smoothness of advance mechanism. Look at the inside of the cap general condition to be sure no gouging or carbon tracks. The fact your at the end of the timing adjustment makes me wonder if your dizzy is not installed one tooth off on the gear.

Yes, could be off one tooth? or 180 degrees?

To ensure compression stroke for #1, remove left upper valve cover.
When the pulley is on Z1 and the ignition rotor points to the notch (#1 cylinder), the intake valve should have clearance, i.e., wiggle the rocker. Or use other methods suggested to ensure compression stroke for #1.

To get to Z1, you can rotate the engine by the big fan nut (may have to squeeze the belt to do it)

[ItzaMe]

It's the worst when threads aren't updated / followed up with..

I'm having the same issue and will investigate all recommendations!

It seems like my dizzy is 180 off or ignition wires are in the wrong firing order.

Stay tuned!

[914986]

You can use a cheap USB borescope down the sparkplug hole to check and see if #1 piston is at the top of it's stroke. I also ran the scope down the intake (carb'd engine) to make sure the intake valve is closed. If #1 is at TDC, #4 intake valve is open. The rotor should roughly point at the fan housing.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by ItzaMe

It's the worst when threads aren't updated / followed up with..

I'm having the same issue and will investigate all recommendations!

It seems like my dizzy is 180 off or ignition wires are in the wrong firing order.

Stay tuned!

Mario,

Turn the crankshaft to TDC @Z1 and post a picture of the ignition distributor. With the crankshaft @ Z1, the ignition distributor rotor could be pointing either at cylinder #1 or #4. There is a reference marker on the ignition distributor body for cylinder #1.

Tony

[ItzaMe]

Originally Posted by 914986

You can use a cheap USB borescope down the sparkplug hole to check and see if #1 piston is at the top of it's stroke. I also ran the scope down the intake (carb'd engine) to make sure the intake valve is closed. If #1 is at TDC, #4 intake valve is open. The rotor should roughly point at the fan housing.

I will be purchasing one tonight since it comes in handy so many times.

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Mario,

Turn the crankshaft to TDC @Z1 and post a picture of the ignition distributor. With the crankshaft @ Z1, the ignition distributor rotor could be pointing either at cylinder #1 or #4. There is a reference marker on the ignition distributor body for cylinder #1.

Tony

I will be checking tonight and post some photos.

Thanks!

[bahman]

Originally Posted by byfdinky

Thanks for the reply.

The engine has been rebuilt and the mechanic could not tune it because the Bitzracing EFI kit He got frustated and quit working on it.

Fuel pressue is at 36lbs.

All wiring to the Wide band Oxy Sensor and to the ecu has been checked.

Seems to run when the key is in the start position but when let go it will not continue.

Originally Posted by masterdave

I had the same issue with the key on my 924s. It turned out it was the key mechanism its self. It ran when it was in the start position but when released the contacts would fall out of place and there would be no electrical power driven to the car. I ended up bypassing the key start with a switch but you can replace the tumbler as well.

I'd settle this first. Over the years I have had this issue wit my various German cars.

[ItzaMe]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Mario,

Turn the crankshaft to TDC @Z1 and post a picture of the ignition distributor. With the crankshaft @ Z1, the ignition distributor rotor could be pointing either at cylinder #1 or #4. There is a reference marker on the ignition distributor body for cylinder #1.

Tony

Here is TDC @Z1, and a photo of the rotor direction. There is a notch in the distributor housing and the rotor is a little bit past it. Let me know your thoughts. I still have to check if this indeed is cylinder #1 compression stroke. I couldn't hear any hissing out of cylinder #1 when spark plug was loosened and I rotated engine my hand. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by ItzaMe

Here is TDC @Z1, and a photo of the rotor direction. There is a notch in the distributor housing and the rotor is a little bit past it. Let me know your thoughts. I still have to check if this indeed is cylinder #1 compression stroke. I couldn't hear any hissing out of cylinder #1 when spark plug was loosened and I rotated engine my hand. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

Mario,

The pictures show that cylinder #1 is at compression stroke. Use an inductive timing light to check your ignition timing.

Tony

[timmy2]

May want to adjust the base position to center of the adjustment slot.
Could be one tooth off, as in rotor needs to end up in the middle of the mark, not the leading edge as it moves clockwise

[ItzaMe]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Mario,

The pictures show that cylinder #1 is at compression stroke. Use an inductive timing light to check your ignition timing.

Tony

I am still not 100% that it's cylinder #1 since I couldn't hear any hissing from the plug I unscrewed and I didn't take valve cover off (will take it off tomoro)

Interesting however, that the other two timing marks, I'm assuming 35 degrees advanced or something aligns with the rotor almost being perfect with the notch in the distributor.

Maybe whoever timed it last mistook this with the Z1 mark and timed #1 cylinder here? The pulley doesn't have any indications of what the marking are but I'm assuming the circles are where the lines for TDC are for.