Removing snap ring

[sdmcoupe]

Anyone have any tricks on how to remove this snap ring (item 25) with the engine in .
The bushings (item 23) in the reverse lever (item 22) are shot.
This is on a 70 911s with MFI.

Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Dislodged the snap ring using a long flat screw driver and be ready with a magnetic pick-up stick from losing the snap ring in the engine bay.

Tony

[gled49]

MFI? The injection pump is in the way of getting the bell crank off, the snap ring is the least of your issues. Pump or throttle body needs to R&I.

[Jeff Higgins]

Yup, as gled49 just said - the MFI pump has to come off. I just did this, like literally a month ago, on my car, for the same reason - the #23 bushings were shot, causing the bellcrank to bind. The OEM are plastic. I made a new set out of aluminum. Probably not necessary, as the OEM lasted 20 years and 100,000 miles, but it did make me feel better.

[Jonny042]

The bushings are the same size as something else commonly available as bronze replacements - was it the throttle bellcrank on the transmission I think?

[Jonny042]

Same as throttle pedal bellcrank bush:

[ed mayo]

I use the plastic bushings, then I can slit the inner bushing and slip it over the shaft without having to remove stuff.

[sdmcoupe]

Originally Posted by ed mayo

I use the plastic bushings, then I can slit the inner bushing and slip it over the shaft without having to remove stuff.

this is an interesting approach. You don't even have to remove the snap ring?

[sdmcoupe]

Originally Posted by Jeff Higgins

Yup, as gled49 just said - the MFI pump has to come off. I just did this, like literally a month ago, on my car, for the same reason - the #23 bushings were shot, causing the bellcrank to bind. The OEM are plastic. I made a new set out of aluminum. Probably not necessary, as the OEM lasted 20 years and 100,000 miles, but it did make me feel better.

Afraid to ask, but what is involved in removing the MFI pump? Do you remove, then reinstall, and go? Or is there some extra calibration that needs to be done after re-installing?

[gled49]

Remove the pump @ the correct timing point, reinstall at the same correct timing point and you’re good to go. It’s not an easy job, been doing them for 40 yrs, don’t know how to pass on details

[ed mayo]

Originally Posted by sdmcoupe

this is an interesting approach. You don't even have to remove the snap ring?

You still remove the snap ring,,slide bell crank till it hits the pump, slip on the slit bushing, slide bell crank back over the inner, then replace the outer bush. Hard part is reinstall snap ring.

[sdmcoupe]

Originally Posted by ed mayo

You still remove the snap ring,,slide bell crank till it hits the pump, slip on the slit bushing, slide bell crank back over the inner, then replace the outer bush. Hard part is reinstall snap ring.

I'm finding the removal of the snap ring rather difficult as well. :-). Thanks for the info.

[Jeff Higgins]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Same as throttle pedal bellcrank bush:

Wish I would have known that, thanks. Oh well, it was pretty easy to whittle out a couple of them from aluminum.

Originally Posted by sdmcoupe

Afraid to ask, but what is involved in removing the MFI pump? Do you remove, then reinstall, and go? Or is there some extra calibration that needs to be done after re-installing?

Originally Posted by gled49

Remove the pump @ the correct timing point, reinstall at the same correct timing point and you’re good to go. It’s not an easy job, been doing them for 40 yrs, don’t know how to pass on details

Setting the pump to its timing point is the most important part of all of this. Fortunately, this is very easy to do prior to removal of the pump. There is a mark on the crank pull just past TDC on #1 and #4 that is marked "FE". Just line that mark up with the timing mark on the fan housing.

This must be done after the motor has gone past TDC on #4, not #1. How do we tell? Easy - either pop the distributor cap, or use a mirror and look at the drive pulley on the front of the MFI pump, where a mark on that drive pulley will be aligned with a mark on the pump body.

From there, I start by removing all of the hard lines to the injectors. Any other items connected to the pump must also be removed - oil lines, hose for the warmup solenoid, wire for the decelerations solenoid, etc. Then there are only four 13mm nuts holding the pump to its base. The right hand nuts are easy, the left hand nuts will test you. A swivel head socket is your friend on these. Sometimes the left front can be more easily reached with a ratcheting box end by reaching through between the #2 and #3 stacks. When all four are removed, the drive belt will slacken and can be removed.

"Installation is the reverse of disassembly". Make sure you tension the belt as you tighten down the base nuts. I use a long screw drive between the base and the pump. Recheck timing after you slip the belt back over the pulley. If the marks line up, there is no special procedure to make it run right beyond that.

[ed mayo]

Actually snap ring isn't entirely accurate, it's actually an 'E' clip so it pulls off, you don't have to stretch anything like on an actual snap ring. And you could remove the throttle body instead which at least doesn't require any timing action. Just remove the throttle stacks from both sides as a unit, (12 6mm nuts) then just remove the 1-2-3 side throttle body, then no lining up of timing marks is necessary. Different ways to skin the cat.

[sdmcoupe]

Thanks all for the info. I went the throttle body removal path and got it done. At first i thought, wow, this is going to be easy until i got to the three nuts closest to the MFI pump on the throttle body. Those were a pain to remove but i managed. Unfortunately, the throttle body can't be fully removed due to the hard MFI lines sitting about a 1/2" above the TB. I was, though able to lift the TB and wiggle it bit to slide the lever off and replace the bushings. Putting it all back together was a little easier. Thanks again.