![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 129
|
911SC Alternator Fan Strap Removal
This should be easy. I'm unable to get the stainless steel strap that holds alternator and fan out. I prefer not to have to disconnect the alternator, remove it to improve access. It appears removing the distributor will help with access too. Any advice on removing the strap is welcomed.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
If you are talking about the fan house strap, I believe the only way to remove it without pulling the distributor is to cut it off and then replace it with a rennline strap.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELRENM03BR.htm?pn=PEL-RENM03-BR
__________________
Tom Hutchinson 80 Targa / 81 Coupe / 71 Targa (in Porsche heaven) My Garage Build: https://youtu.be/H0n_NwEQVbs "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." Ferdinand Porsche |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 129
|
I'm not keen on cutting with the fire hazard. Pulling the distributor is easy. I didn't want to bother with the hassle of setting the timing again. If I can pull it out I can easily weld the crack across the nut to strap interface. Though the RL strap looks cool.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,497
|
You’ll need to loosen the oil pressure sender and let it layout out of the way after removing the distributor. Once loose, the fan and housing will move a short distance to allow the band to remove
Press the band nearly flat and slide it out. Bruce |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
|
Is the problem here the fact that the stock strap has broken where the bolt pulls it together?
Just mark where the stud/nut which hold the distributor body to the case in the slot on the distributor. That way you only need to install the distributor so the rotor points to the right place on the finish of the reinstall. No need to retime the distributor. If you can avoid rotating the engine, you can mark where the rotor points on the distributor rim. Then all you have to get right is at what rotor angle do you reinstall the distributor so that as the gears below engage, the rotor turns to where your mark is. In fact, while pulling the distributor, you could keep checking, and mark the rotor position where it just escapes the crank gear. But cut and try works fine. Cutting the strap isn't the way to go. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 129
|
Walt. Rob Bernard here. Yes, the bolt tore through the strap. I was going to remove it and weld it up. Simply bought a new OEM strap and will keep the original as a spare. Never planned to cut the strap. Was trying to work it our without removing the dist. My plan is as you describe. I'll double check the timing after all is done. Haven't had my timing light out in years. Give me a chance to dust it off. Thanks for your post. As always, yours are informative.
|
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
Rob... it's one thing to get those straps out. Another to get a new one in. Not so important to have distrib out of the way when yanking the old one out. It's nice to have the distrib out when installing the new strap as (without the distrib) there's more space to pull the end of the new strap into place. This is when installing the strap counter clockwise. Not sure what year your car is but I'm familiar with the engines that call for the straps doing an odd bend over the engine---it's what makes them difficult to install. Persistance gets these straps in place. Walt's suggestion to mark the distrib is the way to go.
.
__________________
Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. |
||
![]() |
|